bishbosh Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Looking good. Is the track rod lower than the axle tube or is the first photo from a misleading angle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 It does look worse on the picture than it really is, but it does sit under the axletube. Even when moving the trackrod under the arms on the swivelhousing it only barely misses the panhard. How on earth other people have cleared it I cannot comprehend, either they have moved the steering box and bracket, and the panhard. Or they have somehow modded the swivelhousing. But I think they just have a suspension lift and made longer bumpstops. But we want the car as low as possible not to ruin the handling completely So a protection plate will be made for the trackrod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 A couple more pics. He borrowed the wheels off my 80" as it simply looked too daft on those stockers. And then we went flex-testing just for the hell of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schneide Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 The Volvo c303 axles is now for sale, all incl. Ready to fit your landy. With disc conversation and to lr rims. Is only for sale because i have a new project ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B reg 90 Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 What diff ratio? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Price? Just curious, I can't afford them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schneide Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 it is 1:599 from a c303 volvo. i think the price is like 35000 ddk with all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 My mate finally got the last steering parts sorted and some smoking RRC style rims! So I don't think they are for sale anyways, seems like he has some new found love for them Where did the axlehousing go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 Looks good Soren, how much bump travel does he have left? How close does the track rod get to the drop arm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 Thanks, well he has extended Poly bumpstops on now from his previous setup, and up to these there are only approx. 30mm. But the plan is to make bumpstops that sits outside the frame rails to allow full use of the space between the rails and the axlehousing. Making a portaled car low does present a whole lot of challenges as you know Well the trackrod gets very close that's why we had to move it to the underside of the arms on the knuckles/swivelhousings. He has bought an arm for a RR though to gain some more clearance. The bumper actually sits at exactly the same height as my brothers 90" on a 2" lift and 38" tall tyres, where this has even larger 39,5"s! So it sure sits low considering the portals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 As long as the bumpstops are progressive 30mm won't hurt. I built the back of my pajero to actually touch the (80 series front) bumpstops at ride height. made it very stable off camber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 Axles were fitted yesterday:WP_000078.jpg WP_000079.jpg WP_000080.jpg That is a fairly large scrub radius,although the later photo on post#33 show that has been corrected. How was that done? Wonder how the steering knuckles will cope with the extra leverage? Was the axle redrilled to tilt the diff pinion up like the original? Edit, I just found the post where Shneide mentioned making new wheels to correct the width/scrub radius. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Hi Bill. I'm no expert in English technical terms so bare with me. By scrub radius do you mean distance from kingpin to wheel mounting surface? We did not alter anything on the axles except disc brakes. We just clocked the prop until it was lined up as per Series and there were no vibrations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Shame to lose clearance with the bar like that. How close does it get to the diff on full lock, as the Volvo bars are kinked out to clear it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 yes you're quite right, but we couldn't work around the panhard mount, when the car sits so low they will contact eachother if located at the top. This one is kinked as well and made pretty strong now that it sits that low. Ideally we would just change thenpanhard mount but with very strict MOT rules here in Denmark this would be no good. This way he can still swap acles back to rover with a simple bolt off/ bolt on excercise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 yes you're quite right, but we couldn't work around the panhard mount, when the car sits so low they will contact eachother if located at the top. This one is kinked as well and made pretty strong now that it sits that low. Ideally we would just change thenpanhard mount but with very strict MOT rules here in Denmark this would be no good. This way he can still swap acles back to rover with a simple bolt off/ bolt on excercise Just a suggestion, why not mill out a new bolt-on chassis bracket for the panard rod out of some 40mm thick plate? With some nice machining and a bit of paint nearly anything could pass as a standard bracket. Then again if you made it too nice it would stand out against the stock rover stuff!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 Yeah that sure was a possible solution, I'd guess if one were to blast it with a hard media afterwards it would look cast-ish. But he tells me he has an idea for a solution, I just don't know it yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schneide Posted March 19, 2013 Author Share Posted March 19, 2013 Is it possible to weld om det portal gear hous ? maybe it was possible to make a new bracket for the steering ???... Otherwice full hydrosteering will be nice Rasmus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Is it possible to weld om det portal gear hous ? maybe it was possible to make a new bracket for the steering ???... Otherwice full hydrosteering will be nice Rasmus The portal housing's are cast steel so they weld fine, they can distort though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Hi Bill. I'm no expert in English technical terms so bare with me. By scrub radius do you mean distance from kingpin to wheel mounting surface? We did not alter anything on the axles except disc brakes. We just clocked the prop until it was lined up as per Series and there were no vibrations. Hi Soren, Yes you got the scrub radius description correct. It looked excessive with the small wheels on the photos on post #25 , but it looks good on the later photos with the larger wheels. On the 110 I fitted Volvos to, we had serious vibration issues with the front propshaft when the diff pinion was set up horizontal like on a Series. A propshaft with a double Cardan joint was very heavy and didn't completely solve the problem. Redrilling the axle housing to tilt the pinion up 12 degrees as on the original 110 diff did sort things out however and we were able to revert back to the standard propshaft. I will be visiting the owner of that vehicle in a \week or two, so I will try to take a photo of how we organised the Panhard rod mountings for full up travel by relocating the original chassis bracket. Michele I think may have a photo of it in his collection, but it was some years ago and might be difficult to find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Okay, very interesting. We seemed to have solved any vibrations simply by clocking the yokes on the propshaft. But as you know, sometimes vibrations are easy to cure and sometimes they just never seem to go away. Luck of the draw I suppose. If you could find a picture or two it sure would be interesting to see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Okay, very interesting. We seemed to have solved any vibrations simply by clocking the yokes on the propshaft. But as you know, sometimes vibrations are easy to cure and sometimes they just never seem to go away. Luck of the draw I suppose. If you could find a picture or two it sure would be interesting to see I had a look at the portalled 110 yesterday, but unfortunately I was dressed in my Sunday best, the truck was caked in a thick layer of mud and the mobile phone photo didn't turn out.Anyway the position of the panhard rod mounting is as follows.Draw a line down through the 2 rear steering box mounting bolts, and reposition the Panhard mount so that the bottom hole, the one that the tie bar from the steering box goes to, is centred with the line and approx 50mm below the lower bolt hole.The middle bolt hole in the Panhard mount lines up with the top front hole of the steering box, so a longer bolt is required there.A new bracket is made and welded to the chassis to pick up the top hole of the Panhard mount.This is how we originally did it, but it was found the the chassis was too soft and the Panhard kept working loose, so a 6mm thick sandwich plate was fitted between the chassis and the panhard mount to solidify that area.The Panhard mount was slimmed down 6mm to keep the axle centred. This places the panhard rod behind the the Pitman shaft of the steering box and out of the way of the trackrod and with just enough clearance from the diff bowl to allow full uptravel.Don't worry about the tie bar from the steering box. That was only to stabilise the panhard bracket, not stabilise the steering box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 I forgot to add that this vehicle has a 3 link front suspension, so there are no radius arm brackets at the front of the axle that may interfere with the panhard rod on up travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Thanks for the Info Bill, I think I know what you mean. Wouldn't work for my mate though, as he has the LR Radius Arms on and they too had to be trimmed a bit to clear the steering rod. It would be much better in this case to have the rod behind the axle instead as LR coiler axles. But it would of course involve some welding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 and the mobile phone photo didn't turn out... Dang it! Get a better phone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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