Les Henson Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 If you are fortunate enough to own a series motor, then every 20-years or so, you might find that you have to change the fuel lift pump. The method is exactly the same for petrol and diesel - the latter having one more pipe. The pump is tucked mid-way down the drivers side of the engine, and there's a nest of wires, fuel pipes, and the air filter hose maikng replacing it a bit fiddly. This is one of those jobs that puts a lot of scratches and scrapes on your knuckles. wrists, and forearms. The first picture looks like there's a new pump already fitted, but that's because there is! The camera played-up, and I had to take what is really the last picture, and use it as the first, so the lack of oil and general filth, is just an illusion Anyway - buried down the side of the engine is a filthy, knackered, lift pump. Remove the oil-bath filter and inlet pipe to improve access, cable tie wiring etc out of the way. This vehicle is a 2.25 diesel, so although there are 2-connections, there are three pipes. A petrol will have just the two. Inlet is 13mm ( or 1/2 inch), undo it and tuck it out of the way as best you can. The outlet side of the pump has two pipes on a diesel (one on a petrol), one will go to the injector pump, and the other will return to the filter housing. The type of bolt here is known as a 'banjo bolt' (19mm/3/4") - it retains a collar with more than one outlet, and there will be two fibre or copper washers to effect a seal. These bolts are hollow and a fine thread, there's no need to tighten then excessively - as they also screw into an alloy thread - it's easy to strip one and ruin the alloy thread too. Once the pipes have been disconnected, the pump itself is held to an adaptor plate - usually by two bolts (or in this case) two studs and nuts, that is in turn, bolted to the side of the engine block. The height of the vehicle and the depth of the pump relative to the engine, makes this awkward to do. Something to stand on makes it a lot easier. Old and new:- The new pump may not look the same as the old, some after-market pumps are sealed units, and although looking different, do the same job. With the pump removed, you can see the adapter plate, the clutch flexi pipe connection (on th eleft), and the hole that the foot of the pump sits in. There will be some oil loss through the hole, but not much. Remove the old gasket and clean the mating face of the plate. You can just see the off-set lobe of the cam that drives the pump through the hole. Getting at the two bolts (or nuts), that hold the pump to the block is fiddly enough, so unless there are two studs sticking out of the adapter plate - just glue the pump gasket to the pump, with anything - thick grease, RTV sealant, nail varnish, Mr sheen, cream cheese - anything. There's no way you are going to be able to hold the new gasket in position, AND put the new pump on! When fitting the new pump, make sure the leg is on top of the cam, the flat face on the bottom is what bears on the lobe. Introduce the pump 'high' in the hole to make sure of this. Once the pipes etc are connected, a diesel would need to be bled, there are two bleed screws on th eside of the injector pump, undo this one a couple of turns and then operate the lever on the bottom of the lift pump until a bubble-free jet of diesel can be seen. That's it - apart from the scratches you now have on your wrist, your engine will purr like a kitten once again! For those of you that have a v8 engine, there are three things you need to do that are different. (1) Take the engine out and chuck it in the bin. (2) Fit a diesel (3) finally realise what happiness is. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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