Nigelw Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 I wanted to fit the nice silver alloys from my old V8 Disco onto my project 200 Tdi Disco, but they don't fit!!! It seems the drive flanges are too long and the bolt heads are catching the inside of the wheel when offered up, some pics to show what I mean. These are the L/R alloys I wanted to fit. But the inside of where the hub sits is tapered inward and catches the drive flange bolts. I have not yet had a chance to look at the V8 flanges but I do not remember them being so big as these ones!!! Any help greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwyll Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Probably of no help to you, but I had the same issue fitting alloys to my RR based trialler. As the thing will never go on the public highway or faster than 10mph, I just used a rotary file on the inside of the alloy. Only takes a few mm and they fitted a trear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 I think the proper solution is to fit the later thin drive members and different halfshafts, but it ain't cheap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 Probably of no help to you, but I had the same issue fitting alloys to my RR based trialler. As the thing will never go on the public highway or faster than 10mph, I just used a rotary file on the inside of the alloy. Only takes a few mm and they fitted a trear. I did the same thing without any ill affect. Just take your time with the rotary file, using it evenly around the high points till the rim fits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 It looks as if you have the newer thinner drive flanges. I had this issue with fitting free style alloys. It's a tight fit as the alloy locates on the outer edge of the hub, so clean the outer edge of the hub and drive flange; remove dirt, lumps of paint etc and also make sure the edges of the drive flange bolt don't protrude out from the sillouette of the hub. Once thats done they should fit. Oh and make sure the inside of the wheel is clean and free from lumps of mud, dirt and paint! Also you will need different wheel nuts, but I'm sure you already know that! steve Edit: Just looking at the picture agian it looks as if you might have the older thicker drive flange, so it maybe the case of different drive flange and half shafts or you could go down the route of wheel spacers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 Wheel spacers is the easy option, you have the same problem when fitting alloys to a drum braked defender. You could swap halfshafts in the rear quite easily. But the front axle your going to have to swap CV's aswell. You could just swap the axles off your later model V8 discovery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted November 17, 2012 Author Share Posted November 17, 2012 Wheel spacers is the easy option, you have the same problem when fitting alloys to a drum braked defender. You could swap halfshafts in the rear quite easily. But the front axle your going to have to swap CV's aswell. You could just swap the axles off your later model V8 discovery. I did want to do that, rear axle is a straight swap but front axle is a swine as new one is LHD and old one is RHD so steering box and location on hub on different sides!!! Spacer idea might be worth a look though as wider track would help and these wheels always did sit inside the arches of the V8 to much for my liking, we shall see though as costs will dictate, may still be cheaper to buy the two new Grabber AT2s than a set of spacers!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 Looking at the pics, The studs look short to take alli wheels. Is there a chisel mark or a "V" on the ends of the studs ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 The V8 possibly has the later flanges like a 300Tdi as the hubs shown are the early thick/integral ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted November 17, 2012 Author Share Posted November 17, 2012 Looking at the pics, The studs look short to take alli wheels. Is there a chisel mark or a "V" on the ends of the studs ? Small "v" in the end of all studs Mike, I did think they looked short too but they are all manufactured that length and the steel spare on the back axle with normal steel wheel nuts on does not have too much stud sticking out nor too little so they seem right...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 Small "v" in the end of all studs Mike, I did think they looked short too but they are all manufactured that length and the steel spare on the back axle with normal steel wheel nuts on does not have too much stud sticking out nor too little so they seem right...... That's fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted November 17, 2012 Author Share Posted November 17, 2012 This bit did not spring to mind until just now, but can I not strip out the shafts and drive members from my V8 axles and fit them in to the axle casings of the diesel? I have both axles just sitting there...... Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinn76 Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 depends if they are 10 or 24 spline. Went to swap the front stubs from my disco (24 spline) to our comp RRC (10 spline) to fit ashcroft CV's, shafts and locker we found that we ended up having to change all of the internals (stubs, CV's, Drive shafts and diff) on the front and the rears have an oil seal on the shaft with a 24 spline axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 Alloy wheel nuts are much longer than those for steel wheels, the nuts pass through the wheel to clamp it on the hub, whereas steel wheel nuts tighten onto the wheel centre, Studs IIRC are the same length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted November 18, 2012 Author Share Posted November 18, 2012 depends if they are 10 or 24 spline. Went to swap the front stubs from my disco (24 spline) to our comp RRC (10 spline) to fit ashcroft CV's, shafts and locker we found that we ended up having to change all of the internals (stubs, CV's, Drive shafts and diff) on the front and the rears have an oil seal on the shaft with a 24 spline axle. So by this comment then can I assume that the 1992 200Tdi will be 10 spllined and the 1998 V8 will be 24? Would 24 splines be a lot better to fit or just a lot of effort for not a big improvement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 Edited for accuracy: I did the same thing without any ill affect yet. Just take your time with the rotary file, using it evenly around the high points till the rim fits. If you're going to do this, post up so we can all stay indoors. If there was enough material in the wheel to take some off, LR wouldn't have wasted money putting it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 can I assume that the 1992 200Tdi will be 10 spllined and the 1998 V8 will be 24? Yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 what about nipping the bolt heads with a grinding disk. not so much that they cant be undone, but enough so that the alloy will fit. no filing of "much needed" material, as its only a drive flange bolt head you are shaping. perfectly safe but might get round the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 Well I am unable to determine whether or not the required spannering is worth it to swap over the 24 spline hardware to allow me to fit the silver alloys on this car, I was hoping to find a firm and definitive 24 spline is the only way to go and for it to magnanimously supported but so far some say yes others say no and there is nothing in the argument to make me want to spend a day swapping diffs shafts and hubs just so I can fit the silver wheels....... Maybe I will sell them and put the money in to the new back tyres on the 15" rims? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 you can get 12 spline axles compatible with alloys. but its not a massive job to swap the components from your 24 spline axle. front calipers dont need to be disconnected, just removed and placed out the way then you might aswell just swap the whole swivel units and diff. probably quickest and easiest option then the back is just swap diffs and shafts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 you can get 12 spline axles compatible with alloys. but its not a massive job to swap the components from your 24 spline axle. front calipers dont need to be disconnected, just removed and placed out the way then you might aswell just swap the whole swivel units and diff. probably quickest and easiest option then the back is just swap diffs and shafts. For the back I would probably just swap entire axles as less messy. But the fronts would prove to be more troublesome as 24 spline axle from the V8 is from a RHD Disco and new Disco is a LHD and thats a full strip down jobby as would need to retain outer hubs for the steering links. Could be that I just keep the axles for now and after this thing is road legal and I have re-couped some money I can fit the lockers and the H/D weld on diff pans on those axles and fit at a later date? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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