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LED light units - wiring / resistors?


Astro_Al

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Hi guys, there have been some LED related threads on here, so I thought I might get an educated response.

I have rebuild the back of a vitara (sorry) to be a kind of mini flatbed pickup. I got some LED light units to use instead of the awkwardly curved original light units, from here:

http://www.trailertek.com/acatalog/led_lights.html

The first thing at the top of the page is a load resistor.

Can anyone tell me if I can just plug the light units (here: http://www.trailertek.com/acatalog/info_LT865.html & http://www.trailertek.com/acatalog/info_1_LT825.html ) into the original loom, or do I need the load resistor too? The light units make no mention of an additional resistor, but are full of potting compound, so I can't see what's in there.

Cheers, Al.

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The use of an optional load resistor simulates the current draw used by a standard direction indicator bulb and enables the flasher unit to operate correctly.

It just loads down the flasher unit so it doesn't think the bulb's gone. LED compatible flasher unit is a nicer way to go.

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Hmm, well, fleet: after selling my hairdresser's hippo with head gasket issues, I bought a carp-box fiesta van which met a bollard during a friction-free braking event in the snow in Winchester and was never the same again... (I never knew car designers would be dumb enough to not put ANY metal between the flimsy plastic bumper and the radiator. Unbelievable.)

Bought a 300 tdi disco for 500 with a dodgy head gasket (apparently). Had it flow tested at Owslebury Crankshaft Services in Winchester (recommended, they know their stuff for engine work), it was so leaky, they couldn't even register a value on their flow bench! Fixed the head, got bored of fixing all the other carp & sold it on (now with a member of Shires LRc I believe).

Im getting a bit long in the tooth for hand me downs, but me lovely Pop bought himself a new defender at that point, and he passed his old one on to me. Sadly though, 'twas a basket case. Chassis, bulkhead, brakes, wheel bearings, engine etc all fubar. Total money pit, was getting 19 mpg on diesel and simply couldn't afford to go anywhere in it, so I sold it on for a LWB vitara which I have chopped the back off and I'm currently fitting an LPG system to. Made it into a simple flat tray back for transporting metalwork (the smaller stuff) and general 40 or 50 mpg equivalent running around. Nice.

Just started sorting the Mog for business use, transporting larger jobs etc, plus hiab for fitting stuff on site. Was gonna fit he nv4500 and atlas fom my vapour project days, but it's not necessary, so now looking to offload them. I'll stick a 4.0 straight six and nv3500 from a cherokee in it and call it good.

Still got the workshop near Micheldever, still huge, but doing my best to fill it with interesting tools. Latest addition is a 5.5 tonne powerhammer which I have spent 3 years looking for. Drop by on your way past sometime.

Might be moving abroad for 2 or 3 years soon, might get the flying spanners guys to crack on with the Mog in my absence if I do, are they still firing on all cylinders? I don't get on here much, but it seems the haydays have passed?

Hope all good, sos for looong post! Al

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It just loads down the flasher unit so it doesn't think the bulb's gone. LED compatible flasher unit is a nicer way to go.

The only down side to the led flasher units, is they melt when the trailer lights are on.

i melted 3 from vehicle wiring products before they refused to change them.

i then fitted some tiny ally bodied resisters off ebay, i think they were sold as motor bike ones?

these have been in for 3 years with no problems.

ps. nice to see you back Al.

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