landroversforever Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 I'm sure that one has been widened Steve, Look at the width of the grille and of the bulkhead vents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatslicer Posted December 23, 2012 Author Share Posted December 23, 2012 I want one....better start doing the lottery. Ok, back to the real world. Forget the enormungus wheels and maybe the wheel arches, (although they doo look nice). I can see a way to widen the body, once I have stripped down to the chassis, weld on wider outriggers and weld a new strip down the outer edge of the bulkhead using upper bulkhead repair panels, bulk-head side panels and mounting plates. The wings and side mounts will be moved outwards. All I need to do then is widen the bonnet by adding a strip down the centre and widen the roof by doing the same. I have looked at the measurements for a high capacity rear tub which would be wide enough to add to the rear to make a straight body outline. Simples Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatslicer Posted December 23, 2012 Author Share Posted December 23, 2012 I have been keeping an eye on some snatch bodies for sale at pretty reasonable prices on ebay. They are complete kevlar armoured bodies including front cab, both front doors, rear pod, bulkhead and crew deck. All of these are made of kevlar which equates to fibre glass and is not likely to rot. Any ideas on whether to buy the snatch body or sell my 110 and get a snatch landrover which is essentially an uprated chassis, suspension and v8 engine, take off the snatch pod and replace with a standard 110 rear load body? I have no preferences either way, and time is not a problem. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatslicer Posted December 24, 2012 Author Share Posted December 24, 2012 Merry Christmas all. Hope Santa got my request for a new seat box, rangerover handbrake lever, ally front doors and heavy duty battery. Oh and the wolf roll cage. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatslicer Posted January 7, 2013 Author Share Posted January 7, 2013 Ok, progress report. Bought a 110 hard top van off fleabay. Chassis is ok, some rot in the footwells and the battery box under the passenger seat. Front bulkhead looks like its been filled but it is ok for now. Front doors ropey at the bottom, 4 different keys for the locks and ignition. Both front seats are in fair condition but could do with replacing. Bulkhead behind seats restricts adjustment so will need removing/cutting down. Rear windscreen wiper smooshed against window by badly fitted spare wheel carrier. Replaced nuts on carrier and fitted correctly. Washer nozzle missing. Got a nearly new seat box for £82 Leather set of seats for £111 New set of matching keys and locks for £10 Replacement Rangerover hand brake handle for £6 New smaller steering wheel and boss for £90 Seat heightening runners £15 Rear windscreen washer nozzle £3 New wheel bearings all round £24 Rad Haz insulation sheets £22 Watch this space...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatslicer Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 I have been busy ripping out the front seats and seatbox on my 110 and I have an idea for mounting the original handbrake lever more to the passenger side on the front of an ammo box bolted to the centre seat box panel. That would give me a more accessible brake lever and a central cubby box with a lockable lid. Using a higher mounting point would mean the cable would just need to be rerouted without shortening or otherwise altering the cable. Fiddling with the footwells too, the rusting at the bottom seems to be due to road grime and dirt collecting between the chassis outrigger and the footwell panel. This could be reduced by either lifting the panel up and increasing the gap between them so the dirt would wash out, or putting a screen in front of it so the dirt doesnt get in there in the first place. Anyone done this kind of mod already? I have decided to take out the bulkhead panel between the front seats and the rear tub and put in a bulkhead removal bar. The seats I will be refitting will be from a RR classic fitted onto the original sliding mounts but set on runner extensions to give more legroom. These will need to be set inboard from the original place on the seatbox. My ammo box idea will make it possible to move the seating inboard and backwards and still have the brake lever reachable. Having almost completely stripped the dashboard away, revealed the previous attempts to fill holes in the top of the bulkhead, However these attempts all seemed to have failed to stop water ingress from the windscreen run-off which form a pretty reasonable river of water into the footwells. Had to take out all of the soundproofing stuck to the foowell walls because it was all soaked and mouldy. Having a great time doing all this, very therapeutic ripping a car apart. Hadnt realized! Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big.Mike Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Hi Eric, I'm curious how far you got with this project. Cheers, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatslicer Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 Sorry gents, managed to break an ankle building a new kitchen for the wife. A step ladder decided it didnt want to wait for me to get off before it moved sideways. Been in plaster up to my knee and on crutches. Completely stripped the Landy down to the chassis and beyond. Welded on new front and rear outriggers and patched the bits of rusty chassis as I have been finding them. Chopped off the rear cross-member and replaced it with a TDI one. I am in the process of rebuilding it now into a 5 door soft-top (ish)! I know it sounds bonkers with the weather we get here but I want to strip out as much weight as possible because I am changing the 200td engine for a 2.5 NA recon army lump. I plan to be able to repair or replace parts in the field as it were, so turbo's are not my bag. My current plan is to rebuild the body from the chassis up, with series doors at the front so no winders to restrict me. Ive found some nearly new B and C posts and sills off a roof-damaged donor that I can cut and reweld into a good pair. Then I will be cutting the original rear tub back internally to give me a dropped floor and space to put in seats if I want. I dont have any second row doors yet, so I'll be riveting the sides of the tub onto where the doors should be. It'll look a bit like a station wagon but there wont be any door handles at the back. Ive got a wolf desert sand coloured soft top roof which sits higher than the standard civilian rag top so the sticks and bars will need to be lifted, and a rad-haz inner insulation kit to keep me warm in Winter,Spring and Summer, Autumn should be ok!) I have made a hand brake mounting box from an ammo box so it will have a little cubby box in between the seats, the seats will be inboard of the original position and be electrically adjustable. The seat box front will have to be trimmed a bit to let the seat motors pass over it but it will still be fairly standard otherwise. The centre seat box cover will need to be beefed up a little to take the ammo brake box, and holes cut in both to allow the cable through. I have a smaller steering wheel, and a TDCI dashboard which will be trimmed up from the bottom to allow the gear-stick to move freely. The TDCI gear stick is further back and shorter so I will be playing around making a cranked stick for myself. The rest of the dash will be rewired neater and tidier than the original, the fuse box will be under the drivers side seat. You'll be interested I am sure that I've managed to ruin one welder, two grinders and several hand tools in getting this thing cut up. Practically every bolt sheared or needed grinding off. The design of some of the chassis cross members is really daft. The one just forward of the fuel tank looks like it was designed to collect muck and road salt and hold it in place for years out of sight. I will be welding on baffle plates when I have repaired all the rusty bits at each corner. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 If you're after more space in the cab, I'd avoid the puma dash. At 6'3" I don't fit so well in puma vehicles! Loads more room in my 90 with the td5 dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Might be a bit late, but this thread may be informative: http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=89595 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatslicer Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 Blimey, thats exactly what I was planning to do with mine! I would only be expanding sideways about 3-4 inches each side but the theory is the same. Its all just a matter of cutting extra pieces and welding them on almost as extensions. The bulkhead widening is exactly as i had imagined it. Eerie. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBStreetTX Posted November 13, 2018 Share Posted November 13, 2018 Meatslicer, I am new to the Defender world, although a proud Land Rover (LR#/Disco3) owner since 2007. Ahead of my purchasing a 110 to restore and modify, I am researching the width restrictions in the driving positions. Being here across the pond in North America, the LHD NAS seems to be even more tight in the drivers seat than your RHD versions there. Seeing this old thread, I was hoping to get an update on your experience in obtaining more shoulder room in your 110. Did you get further with that or did you change directions? All the best from Texas, CBStreet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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