Adam001 Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 Hi, So nearly there with my restoration...started on the doors today...never seen any so bad...even the top pillars are shot!!! So got to replace all 4 doors, on top of the other costs I can't afford good defender doors so going to get some new series doors. Fronts seem easy enough, I'll fit the anti-burst locks, is FQB000040 and FQB000050 the correct numbers for the strikers? The 2nd row doors however I am a little lost on. Paddocks only sell non-glazed doors. Does anyone know where I can get the Glazing and associated parts to go in them? Also do I use the same strikers as the front series doors? Any help would be great! Cheers, Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 If you pull the part numbers out of the catalogue then you should be able to get the bits at most places I would have thought. And then there's the second hand option. However, I would advise against putting Series doors on. They're flimsy, they leak, and they still rot like hell... just in different places. If you can weld then there's no reason your doors can't be repaired. The top section is just a tapered box section after all, same as the bottom part. Another alternative is to buy some more Defender doors that are still rusty but not quite as bad as yours, and repair those. I picked up a Defender passenger door for £40 off eBay that's in better nick than the one on my 90 which I will repair and swap over. No reason why you can't do the same with 110 doors, they're just slightly rarer. Series doors are awful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam001 Posted December 1, 2012 Author Share Posted December 1, 2012 I may have a go at repairing the fronts, but the rears are shot, I can weld fairly well, but I can't work miracles! Are series doors really that bad? Can they made to be good if bought new? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 Defender doors are too light and flimsy as it is, Series doors are even worse. They'll let more noise in, and the split design means it's harder to get a good seal at the top. Especially if driving at speed Then there's the issue of door cards. Quite rare. And the sliding windows, which will be fine for a year or so before they start rattling/leaking. And not being able to have a fully open aperture will become annoying! Put simply I don't mind the Series doors on a vehicle of the relevant age as they're part of the character and appeal of the vehicle. Same as the drum brakes, leaf springs etc. But I wouldn't put them on a Defender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluehaze Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 I was faced with a similar dilemma - in the end we got a set (fronts and middles) TD5 doors that were shop soiled from Craddocks for £700. We transplanted all the parts from the old to the new ones, and still managed to sell the old ones for £90!!!! Have a look on fleabay and try to pick up a set that you can repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 Defender doors are too light and flimsy as it is, Series doors are even worse. They'll let more noise in, and the split design means it's harder to get a good seal at the top. Especially if driving at speed Then there's the issue of door cards. Quite rare. And the sliding windows, which will be fine for a year or so before they start rattling/leaking. And not being able to have a fully open aperture will become annoying! Put simply I don't mind the Series doors on a vehicle of the relevant age as they're part of the character and appeal of the vehicle. Same as the drum brakes, leaf springs etc. But I wouldn't put them on a Defender. I have military two part doors on my defender and as James says the seal at the top is very difficult to mantain and you end up resorting to extra closed cell seals to keep the water out. They suit me because my truck is a shed on wheels and has no frills not even carpet or a wireless but if you want comfort and a drier cab look for one piece doors. J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris200100 Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 I got split doors on my 110 csw both front and middle row. They are a nightmare wind comes in when going at speed and the rain comes in too. They are original as fitted to this year of landrover 110 (1984) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 how bad are they really? mine were quite bad.. and the repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam001 Posted December 1, 2012 Author Share Posted December 1, 2012 Mine are worse than those! I think you've convinced me to stay defender. I'll keep my eye out over the next month for replacements, failing that I'll crack on with the welder! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 I fitted posh new one piece galv doors, then promptly rolled the car (not me driving) now I have cheap series door bottoms, posh rocky mountain tops and 1 piece series doirs on the 2nd row which I will be fitting rocky mountain window channels to, with perspex instead of glass, that way next time I break it I won't be crying like a girl! The rocky tops really are a massive improvement! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 yours are worse? wow,, that deserves a pat on the back! all i can say is go for it! wont cost you much to repair them. (cost me around £70 for all 4 doors) wish i had a close up picture of them finished. I fitted posh new one piece galv doors, then promptly rolled the car -- next time I break it I won't be crying like a girl! at over £400 per door, i would have the noose in my hand! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam001 Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 £70 for 4 doors? What did you use for the channels? I don't really want to buy the premade repair pieces...I wouldn't normally say this, but I want to bodge them and repair then well, but cheaply! £70 sounds perfect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 £70 for 4 doors? What did you use for the channels? I don't really want to buy the premade repair pieces...I wouldn't normally say this, but I want to bodge them and repair then well, but cheaply! £70 sounds perfect! that was for 4 (i think) repair sections from YRM, plus some 1.5 galv' sheet i have knocking around. and tbh, i don't see my door repairs a bodge.. when welding my safari, it was like weld Swiss cheese to mild Cheddar.. impossible! another picture. but trust me, it can pay off.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam001 Posted December 4, 2012 Author Share Posted December 4, 2012 I may give that a go then, get a load of 1.5mm steel sheet and 4 sets of repair channels and see what I can do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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