Troll Hunter Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 Hi, All, Some advice please: I've been into the Technical Archive and have read the "Defender Clutch Replacement" thread, which doesn't give much detail of the sequential actions necessary, and the thread "110 clutch fork leaving gearbox in". Can the clutch friction disc, pressure plate and thrust bearing be replaced following the procedure in the "110 clutch fork leaving gearbox in" thread, and supplemented by the engine lift and 2 chain process described in the other thread? Many thanks. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris200100 Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 My mate just done the clutch on my 110 (300tdi/R380). He took the engine out rather than mess with the gearbox, he said it easier that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 Between thise 2 links you've probably got as much info as you can get from the tech archive me thinks. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5010 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6840 When I did my clutch on the 90, the body was off and so was the gearbox, so it was a relativly straight forward job. Generally you do have 2 options, pull the gearbox back, or move the engine forward. While you're in there it might be worth you changeing the rear engine oil seal too, this is a common seal to leak on 200/300tdi's. As to which method you go for depends on your equipment and facilities, if you have a nice flat area and an engine hoist, i'd maybe go for engine removal option. if limited with space and equipment, I'd do the method that Les used for the clutch fork, you can get away with doing that outside your house on the street. There is always the Haynes manual too, always good for a read to give you an idea of steps to take to do stuff, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 changed my last clutch by splitting gearbox from engine, just moved them rearwards enough to access the clutch cober bolts, all worked fine, front of gearbox sat on the x-member & rear supported on trolley jack & wooden blocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 I just replace the top corner bolts with long ones and then remove the rest, remove the shifter housing tops and slide the assembly backwards until there's almost enough room though I'm 200/R380 which I suspect is more challenge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickMc Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Just slide the gearbox back, saves so much time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 OK, guys, many thanks for giving me the benefit of your combined experience. Since I've got a covered and heated w'shop with concrete floor and a pit, but no lifting gear, it's got to be sliding the g'box back. And, yes, Maverick, my rear engine oil seal is leaking, only 3 years after being done, so that's on the list as well. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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