Interior Bulkhead Soundproofing

[need4speed]

Ive been looking for the sound insulation panel that fits across the entire (interior) width of the td5 bulkhead. However from what i can find on tinternet its hideously expensive...nearly £200!!! For what looks like plain old self-adhesive closed cell foam!

So. Ive decided to just get £15 worth of foam from the bay. However my question is this. What would be the max thickness i could fit here without it intruding/making something awkward to fit in this area?

[Guest]

By interior I take that to mean in the cab?

I fitted one layer of the 6mm foil backed stuff, I think any more than that and you would start to have issues with the carpets and other bits fitting again.

Jason.

[Retroanaconda]

I applied Fatmat to mine, would guess it's about 3-4mm thick. Caused no issues putting the dash etc. back on

[bm52]

check here as well

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-15-sound-deadening.aspx

[need4speed]

Im not worried about the footwells etc as this will be taken care of by a WOR soundproofing kit. I was meaning the inside of the bulkhead behind the dash. The td5 bulkheads have a soundproofing pad fitted there. I was wondering what thickness of closed cell foam i could get away with fitting there before it starts to foul things?

[wobble_hd]

By interior.....

I applied Fatma.....

Was it a considerable difference after the installation?

Was it worth it?

M

[Diablo]

In my rebuild, I put fatmat on both sides of the bulkhead and whilst the difference wasn't night and day, there was a reduction in noise levels, particularly the higher pitched ones.

Additionally, there's less resonance in the metal as it has some added density.

[Retroanaconda]

Was it a considerable difference after the installation?

Was it worth it?

M

Yes, there was a difference. It's not massive as Diablo points out, but certainly there. It's hard to attribute it just to the bulkhead soundproofing as I also covered the floors, tunnel and entire seatbox in the stuff. And then the standard L/R station wagon soundproofing and carpets on top of that. What I can say is that when I get in other Tdi Land Rovers now I certainly notice the difference, and others that have been in mine have commented on how quiet it is. I can drive at 60mph and have a conversation with a passenger without raising my voice, which I couldn't do before when it was all bare metal.

Still a fair bit of engine noise though compared to modern cars or even a more modern Defender, so I intend to add some bonnet soundproofing to help with that a bit. And there's a lot of road noise from the back which, whilst I have carpeted it, is devoid of proper fitted soundproofing.

[wobble_hd]

Yes, there was a difference. It's not massive as Diablo points out, but certainly there. It's hard to attribute it just to the bulkhead soundproofing as I also covered the floors, tunnel and entire seatbox in the stuff. And then the standard L/R station wagon soundproofing and carpets on top of that. What I can say is that when I get in other Tdi Land Rovers now I certainly notice the difference, and others that have been in mine have commented on how quiet it is. I can drive at 60mph and have a conversation with a passenger without raising my voice, which I couldn't do before when it was all bare metal.

Still a fair bit of engine noise though compared to modern cars or even a more modern Defender, so I intend to add some bonnet soundproofing to help with that a bit. And there's a lot of road noise from the back which, whilst I have carpeted it, is devoid of proper fitted soundproofing.

In my rebuild, I put fatmat on both sides of the bulkhead and whilst the difference wasn't night and day, there was a reduction in noise levels, particularly the higher pitched ones.

Additionally, there's less resonance in the metal as it has some added density.

Thank you for your answers.

M

[ajh]

B-Quiet ultimate first, this damps vibration and seals things so well that if it isn't rusting now, it wont. Then top with either neoprene, I used half-inch myself in the footwells and 1/8 self adhesive from RAAMmat (cheapest price I've found) for sound and heat insulation everywhere else. I also used other products but found the combination of these two was the best results for the investment, easiest to install, and had the best water repelling properties.

[Jode]

B-Quiet ultimate first, this damps vibration and seals things so well that if it isn't rusting now, it wont. Then top with either neoprene, I used half-inch myself in the footwells and 1/8 self adhesive from RAAMmat (cheapest price I've found) for sound and heat insulation everywhere else. I also used other products but found the combination of these two was the best results for the investment, easiest to install, and had the best water repelling properties.

In order to inhibit engine and roadway noise you need a material that will provide greater material density between you (the cab interior) and the noise source than is provided by the lr bodywork. Simply put, the denser the material the more it will tend to stop the passage of higher-frequency sounds. So the 'closed cell foam' material that you choose will make the difference between something that provides value for money and something that's both a waste of moolah and time. Best to buy a known and proven product that has been designed to reduce sound transmission, even if it's pricier than something from Ali Baba and his den of thieves (or whatever it was in '1001 nights').