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Hello All,

I have seen this and wonder if it would work in a defender 200tdi , i.e would a standard alternator cope with this?

I understand the battery would be flat in no time fast if the engine wasn't running but would it cope when it was running?

It's the type you wire direct to the battery rather than frying the cigar lighter :rolleyes:

Cheers

J2J

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item43b6db765f

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Ever so slightly off topic, but.... Don't even think about buying it!!

Years ago at work they spent around 30k on a brand new electric milk float, now to cut a long story short this thing was utter ****! Anyway it had a 'heater' identical to this one and it was completely useless! It produced fairly warm air but was so weak I could blow harder!!

It *may* not be the same but it damn well looks like the junk that was fitted in the embarassment that was affectionately called the "fcuk truck"...

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in my transit crewcab ive got a 2000w inverter, i plug in a 600w convector heater. start the truck up and shes nice and warm

Reminds me of an idea I read about somewhere (perhaps on here) about running an extension lead into your truck to a small heater and putting the extension lead on one of those timer plug thingy-me-wotsits. Set it to come on half hour before you're due to leave in the morning and there you go - a nice warm, de misted truck waiting for you!

Of course this was mentioned on the assumption that you're after instant heat first thing, before the engine's warmed up...

That sounds good my mother in law has a coal effect one I could fit it in the passenger footwell for that traditional look ;)

I like this, if I had an inverter (and an electric coal effect fire for that matter) I'd do this for the crack. My Mrs might then actually enjoy a trip in my 90... Maybe...

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Reminds me of an idea I read about somewhere (perhaps on here) about running an extension lead into your truck to a small heater and putting the extension lead on one of those timer plug thingy-me-wotsits. Set it to come on half hour before you're due to leave in the morning and there you go - a nice warm, de misted truck waiting for you!

Of course this was mentioned on the assumption that you're after instant heat first thing, before the engine's warmed up...

I like this, if I had an inverter (and an electric coal effect fire for that matter) I'd do this for the crack. My Mrs might then actually enjoy a trip in my 90... Maybe...

How about one of these? I bet they are about as powerful as a junior asprin. My Mrs gets in my 90 but wraps up like Eskimo-Nell so it looks like the 90 is inhabited by a pair of Bibendums :hysterical:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-4-In-1-Rechargeable-Car-Heater-Fan-Cooler-Demister-Windscreen-Defroster-/370717740961?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item56507fcfa1

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i'm still toying with the idea of putting a small 240v immersion heater into the coolant system somehow and fitting an anderson plug on the grill - park up and plug my truck in to the garage on a timer. 6am the immersion heater turns on and heats up the coolant for when i get out the house at 7.30.

instantly warm engine and heater!

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i'm still toying with the idea of putting a small 240v immersion heater into the coolant system somehow and fitting an anderson plug on the grill - park up and plug my truck in to the garage on a timer. 6am the immersion heater turns on and heats up the coolant for when i get out the house at 7.30.

instantly warm engine and heater!

Interesting idea, would you need a pump though? Or would you be relying on a convection current? As for fitting the immersion heater would it not just mean fabricating a vessel to take the heater with an inlet and outlet plumbed into the cooling system?

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Interesting idea, would you need a pump though? Or would you be relying on a convection current? As for fitting the immersion heater would it not just mean fabricating a vessel to take the heater with an inlet and outlet plumbed into the cooling system?

what i was thinking of doing was replacing the silly rubber radiator plug with one of Simons metal ones and having the middle drilled out and tapped to accept a threaded 6" immersion heater element. the element would sit in the main body of the radiator and therefore should promote some significant convection current and heat everything quite evenly. Even if it didnt, and only heated up the majority of the coolant in the radiator and inlet/outlet pipes - its still a bloody good start.

plus i was thinking of spending £5 more on the heating element with built in thermostat, so that the coolant would not exceed 90C at that localised point to prevent boiling.

That point on the rad is only 6" away from an existing hole in my front grill surround (had a winch plug in it) so would seem a logical place to put a waterproof anderson plug. then get a length of amoured 3 core with a 13amp plug on one end and anderson plug on t'other and bobs your uncle!

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I've got a 2.5Kw fan-heater that I stick in the back of my 90 on cold nights; an extension-lead runs back to one of the shed power-outlets.

Wake up at 06:30 - put the coffee-machine on and pop outside to plug in the heater.

As the coffee brews, also the sausages, bacon and fried-eggs move inexorably towards edibleness - and the Defender quietly defrosts.

07:45 the dogs are walked, I'm nourished and hyper-caffeinated so can then scamper out to a warm-and-welcoming truck.

Just remember to unplug the cable before driving away.

--Tanuki.

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Why not buy a proven ready made engine heater? http://www.landrover...-engine-heater/

Where's the fun in that?! You won't learn anything, you'd get a lot less satisfaction and I bet it's pricey! If you want it easy, you shouldn't of bought a Land Rover!! :ph34r:

what i was thinking of doing was replacing the silly rubber radiator plug with one of Simons metal ones and having the middle drilled out and tapped to accept a threaded 6" immersion heater element. the element would sit in the main body of the radiator and therefore should promote some significant convection current and heat everything quite evenly. Even if it didnt, and only heated up the majority of the coolant in the radiator and inlet/outlet pipes - its still a bloody good start.

plus i was thinking of spending £5 more on the heating element with built in thermostat, so that the coolant would not exceed 90C at that localised point to prevent boiling.

That point on the rad is only 6" away from an existing hole in my front grill surround (had a winch plug in it) so would seem a logical place to put a waterproof anderson plug. then get a length of amoured 3 core with a 13amp plug on one end and anderson plug on t'other and bobs your uncle!

Sounds like you've done a fair bit of thinking about this - great idea to locate it in one of the end tanks on the rad. The thermostat would be a good touch too. Shame there is so much I need to do to my truck before I even contemplate projects like this... Prioritising sucks!

Although slapping an electric heater in the truck is very simple, heating the coolant has a slight benefit as it'll save you fuel and possibly reduce engine wear?

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Maybe not that fun, but working... ;) Which is of some importance when the temp is -25C outside.

Anderson connectors and mains might not be a good idea, better to use proper plugs etc. Also, if going homemade, the heating element has to sit further down to enable some circulation in the system. Put in a high position all the heat will just stay there. And engine or lower radiator hose is a better place than the radiator. It's the engine you want to heat...

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Why not just your heater out?

That said, I'm thinking of fitting a heated front screen and seats - I'm getting old!!!

I have a heated front 'screen, super. I have heated mirrors, super BUT I can't see through the side windows to see out of my mirrors...

Would one of those innefective heaters clean enough off the side window to let me see the mirrors ?

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Many years ago, I had a standard domestic fan heater in my 109 with an external socket for a power lead (like those used on buildings sites, camp sites, marinas and so on). Five minutes before using the car, I'd plug it in at full blast and then would have a roasty-toasty car to set off in. The only draw back was the need for the electrical hook up, much like with the Kenlowe Hot starts, which though they have the benefit of warming the engine, take far longer and more power to make any difference than the fan. BUT, these heaters have around 3000W output. Look at these vehicle powered heaters' outputs and you'll see they'll never be any use.

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The immersion heater idea is a good one - But you can buy these ready made in the USA for about $40 - I have a couple (no idea where sadly! - bought about 10 yrs ago) The USA ones are designed to heat coolant suyatems in cars and pick-up in the USA - some chilly parts of the US even have mains outlets in the same poles as parking meters - so you can plug in your block heater while you go to the diner / coffe shop / bar (you can also get a form of immersion that goes in the oil dip-stick holes to heat the block)

"Just remember to unplug the cable before driving away" - I have found (the hard way) that the best way to do this is to thread it throug the steering wheel!!

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I've got a 2.5Kw fan-heater that I stick in the back of my 90 on cold nights; an extension-lead runs back to one of the shed power-outlets.

Wake up at 06:30 - put the coffee-machine on and pop outside to plug in the heater.

As the coffee brews, also the sausages, bacon and fried-eggs move inexorably towards edibleness - and the Defender quietly defrosts.

07:45 the dogs are walked, I'm nourished and hyper-caffeinated so can then scamper out to a warm-and-welcoming truck.

Just remember to unplug the cable before driving away.

--Tanuki.

Yep, that's what I do even though I've got heated seats and screen in the Puma. I've had a couple of Kenlowe Hotstarts in the past and while ok IIRC they took quite a while to heat the coolant to any great extent. Somewhere in the workshop I've got the old block heaters off the Defender ambulance I had, one was a sump pan heater but t'other was for coolant and a bit like a mini immersion heater, it's about a foot long cylinder, was plumbed into the heater circuit with a coolant inlet and outlet and electrical connections. There was no inbuilt pump as it just relied on thermo-syphon to circulate the water - same principle as pre war cars without a water pump. The same vehicle had a fuel powered Eberspacher which was good, in fact even in freezing weather it was too good at times.

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