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300TDI front axle into a TD5 110?


gadget
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Depending on the age of the axle the radius arms may also be different, Later axles have a wider radius arm you can tell the difference by sight as the wider ones have a triangle/point on the bottom of the curve, or just measure them!! as for the breather you can just get a screw thread to push fit adaptor for a couple of quid to sort out that issue.

Jason

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Err 110's have bigger calipers so you will need to swap them to.

Mike

The early ones did, after a certain year they were standard across 90/110 and I belive they were the same for the disco too apart from some models had the 2 port set-up...

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have a nasty suspicion that the original diff has blown and punched a hole in the pan and casing at an earlier point, and it's been "repaired" and a replacement diff fitted.

I'll only know how bad the casing is once it's apart.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I had a little time yesterday to start taking the axle off and spotted something.

The upper panhard bracket isn't part of the chassis as per my Discovery. It's a bolt on thing in the Defender.

NTC9462 looks to be the same part from Discovery and Defender.

Thinks: Can I not simply steal the bracket, panhard rod and axle from the 300TDI and fit to the Defender?

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I'd personally go the strip route. lining up the shaft with the weight of the swivel hanging off would be a PITA.

Done it, honestly, it's not that bad, a lot less work than stripping the whole axle down for sure.

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The bolts that attach the swival ball housing to the axle caseing are 12.9 grade high tensile steel bolts, with 12 points, its also good to check these and in my opinion change them... these after all hold your wheels on ultimatly.

Mav

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I'll be having new bolts and new nylocs too.

Some clever person had applied threadlock to the entire thread of all 14 swivel-axle bolts!!!!

It took some time to wind them out.

Swivels are off. The one with the long halfshaft is a bit unwieldy, but not too bad to handle.

I'm having a mid bolt cracking cuppa and pondering the best way to remove the axle casing.

It's currently on axle stands and i have the front of the chassis on blocks.

Is my best plan to raise the chassis until the springs are not in compression?

Do i need to remove the radius arms from the chassis to make life easier?

Oh, and one last thing. DON'T use a cheap spanner to undo the bolts.

Spanner shattered under the force and yours truly punched the ground as it let go. Arse!

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Some clever person had applied threadlock to the entire thread of all 14 swivel-axle bolts!!!!

It took some time to wind them out.

Think that's standard from the factory! Just be grateful they didn't fall off :)

Is there not enough room to pop the spring out as it is? Without jacking the chassis further? Otherwise your idea is sound, I tend to find I need to stick a jack or big lever bar between chassis and radius arm to free the spring as the bushes tend to bind a bit depending on the springs you have.

However, if you remove the radius arms the springs will come out of their own accord, getting them back in is a little different though, jack method works here quite well, standard Disco/RRC bottle jack works here :)

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I'll be having new bolts and new nylocs too.

Some clever person had applied threadlock to the entire thread of all 14 swivel-axle bolts!!!!

It took some time to wind them out.

Swivels are off. The one with the long halfshaft is a bit unwieldy, but not too bad to handle.

I'm having a mid bolt cracking cuppa and pondering the best way to remove the axle casing.

It's currently on axle stands and i have the front of the chassis on blocks.

Is my best plan to raise the chassis until the springs are not in compression?

Do i need to remove the radius arms from the chassis to make life easier?

Oh, and one last thing. DON'T use a cheap spanner to undo the bolts.

Spanner shattered under the force and yours truly punched the ground as it let go. Arse!

They are always FT when you undo them. Bear in mind the threadlock should be applied to the start of the threads so it will go all the way up when the bolt is wound in.

I supported mine as high as I could by the dumb irons and then dropped the axle as low as I could before rolling it out on some old skate board wheels and a fence post. I left the radius arms attached at the chassis end.

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