gadget Posted March 19, 2013 Author Share Posted March 19, 2013 Think that's standard from the factory! Just be grateful they didn't fall off You're right. Is there not enough room to pop the spring out as it is? Without jacking the chassis further? Otherwise your idea is sound, I tend to find I need to stick a jack or big lever bar between chassis and radius arm to free the spring as the bushes tend to bind a bit depending on the springs you have. I have whatever springs special vehicles fitted to cope with the huge bumper and winch. They were black and are now mostly rust. When I ditch the winch i'll probably need to replace them as i suspect the ride will be harsh. However, if you remove the radius arms the springs will come out of their own accord, getting them back in is a little different though, jack method works here quite well, standard Disco/RRC bottle jack works here Raised the front and dropped the axle. Springs came out pretty easily They are always FT when you undo them. Bear in mind the threadlock should be applied to the start of the threads so it will go all the way up when the bolt is wound in. I appreciate that it would spread, but these were caked in it. If i can remember to i'll take a photo of them tomorrow. I supported mine as high as I could by the dumb irons and then dropped the axle as low as I could before rolling it out on some old skate board wheels and a fence post. I left the radius arms attached at the chassis end. I ended up lifting the front dumb irons to about 3ft of the ground. pulled the 4 bolts from the axle/radius arms and levered the axle off. With hindsight I suspect it might have been easier to remove the radius arms. After much grunting the axle is out and the diff is out of the casing. The pan has definitely been punched through by something at some point. As the pan isn't corroded, and i've nothing to lose now everything is apart, i'm considering attempting to weld it up. We'll see... The inside of the casing is coated in some thick black gloop that will need flushing out before it all goes back together. One of the ARB ball joints is still on the axle casing. Split pin is out but the whole thing spins when i try to shift the castle nut. There's no obvious torx fitting in the end of the threads either All in all success Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 Here's a photo of the bolts with the crazy amount of threadlock on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 you can see the patch of factory thread lock (lighter section) then the extra stuff applied by someone else. Your supposed to clean all the old threadlock off before putting new stuff on, and clearly they havent done so! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted March 21, 2013 Author Share Posted March 21, 2013 After removing the previous owners welding this is the exit hole for whatever punched through the pan. The rest of the pan seems solid. Anyone nearby to Stone, Staffs with a mig fancy patching it? Or is it beyond help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Your local garage would be able to MIG that up for you, easy repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted March 21, 2013 Author Share Posted March 21, 2013 Your local garage would be able to MIG that up for you, easy repair. Happy to know it's an easy repair I assume the repair would be a patch? How many beer tokens would be a fair price for the repair? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Yep, a patch, you could make it yourself, 2mm stuff would be fine, and take them about 5 minutes to weld up, clean it up about an inch inside and outside, and degrease the axle case on the inside first, as the last you would want is them setting fire to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted March 22, 2013 Author Share Posted March 22, 2013 During some tedium in the day job i starting thinking about the diff that's currently out of its axle. (I know, I know. this thinking will get me in to trouble) As i've already got the front axle apart and the diff is out, would it be a good idea to replace the bearings in the diff? If it is a good idea, how difficult is it to put the diff back together properly afterwards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted March 27, 2013 Author Share Posted March 27, 2013 Made the plate today and the local indy is welding it for £20. Hopefully pick it up tomorrow sometime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 Here's a photo of the bolts with the crazy amount of threadlock on them.axle.bolts.jpg Bolts look pretty standard to me - threadlock is a good thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted March 28, 2013 Author Share Posted March 28, 2013 The new ones i have here have less than half the threadlock of the ones i removed. As earlier reply suggested, there's extra threadlock on top of the old threadlock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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