Diablo Posted January 3, 2013 Author Share Posted January 3, 2013 Re: the radiator, how does the oil cooler part work? Does it simply run through some of the tubes that go across the front of the vehicle? Considering taking the thing apart this weekend and having a look in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 I think its just a plain compartment in the one tank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Re: the radiator, how does the oil cooler part work? Does it simply run through some of the tubes that go across the front of the vehicle?Considering taking the thing apart this weekend and having a look in it. oil cooler is a canister within the radiator side tank, it's hoses connections are on the rear face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted January 3, 2013 Author Share Posted January 3, 2013 Is it possible to get it out of the tank without ruining either? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 only if you de-solder the side tank from the matrix. if you want to use a different oil cooler just blank off the existing oil coolers connections & reroute the pipes/hoses to the new oil cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted January 3, 2013 Author Share Posted January 3, 2013 Probably worth looking into. Think I'll have a more thorough look at the weekend. The old oil pipes appear to have very little in the way of shrapnel in them, but will cut them open to double check. Otherwise I might buy a 'cheap' plastic rad and then sort mine out properly later on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 Does anyone have a picture of the oil cooler out of the radiator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 ok next problem: starter motor solenoid stud is stripped (who knows how it didn't fail before). Rang Keith Gott who said they have them on the shelf, but different makes have slightly different solenoids. Is this correct, and does anyone know what the differences are? The starter I have is prestolite (not the best make I know, but has been without fault for the entire time I've had the vehicle) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 And it is going again! A few teething problems, such as notchy steering and the clutch seems to have a very low/short biting , but apart from that it is fantastic. Much much more lively and a hell of a lot more refined Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 Does anyone have a picture of the oil cooler out of the radiator? I saw one somewhere on infernal net a few weeks ago, but can't remember what page it was on, the tank is just a capped cylinder with connections for the pipes/hoses, it's nothing special Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 And it is going again! A few teething problems, such as notchy steering and the clutch seems to have a very low/short biting , but apart from that it is fantastic. Much much more lively and a hell of a lot more refined readjust the clutch pedal height as detailed in the genuine workshop manual or see the attached info, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 ahhh... I dream of an engine like that in my truck... making good progress with the swap over. Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 Cheers western. Didn't touch hydraulics of clutch, but put new one in, so I guess that's why it's changed. Shall have a go at that later. Maverik: I had dreamed of it too, but never planned to do it. Really impressed with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 As Ralph says, I'd adjust the pedal height and see if that helps. If it doesn't then you can start looking else where. It is full of fluid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 That is good news, well done Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 Sharp clutches with a bit point at near-full pedal movement are usually caused by trapped air. Try to lift the nose of the car as high as possible for clutch bleeding by using ramps or axle stands (not sloping ground or high lift jacks) to make sure the air in the slave cylinder goes to the port end, not the piston end. It makes a huge difference. Just make sure the slave has been plumbed in correctly, too - the pipe should feed into the lower port and the bleed nipple or pipe into the upper port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 Notchy steering is often seizing steering column u/ j's. Start with WD40 then engine oil over the u/ j's and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 It worked fine before all this and hasn't been touched which I thought odd. Will probably give it a quick blast with the eazibleed and see what that does Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 A new clutch will have bite point a bit nearer the floor as the diaphraghm spring will be further depressed due thicker plate , pusing the plunger right back into the slave cylinder should expel any trapped air , and then slowly pump back to contact position as its a hydrostatic unit . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted January 14, 2013 Author Share Posted January 14, 2013 Thanks, though with a bit of driving it seems to be a fair bit better now. Steering pump is the next problem! Seems to judder the steering wheel when on full lock. Hey ho, there's always got to be something on the to-do list eh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 Don't hold it on full lock, that's the simple soultion. Hauling the steering in to the stops doesn't achieve any more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted January 14, 2013 Author Share Posted January 14, 2013 Aye, I'd worked that one out, but it also feels like the power is lost (by a factor of about 50%) at random points. The pump was a bit ratchety when I put it on, but I'm sure I'll ignore it until it fails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 A slipping fan belt can cause the power steering to cut in and out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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