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clutch bleeding in rebuild ????

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I can't bleed my clutch adequately other than with a pressure bleeder. I think it is because the pipe to the slave cylinder has a fairly wide bore, so by the time you have opened the bleed nipple and pressed the pedal etc the bubbles have risen back to where they started.

With a pressure bleeder you can get a enough flow to force the bubbles out. Might be worth trying?

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found the part number of my release bearing & push rod

bearing is UTJ100210

pushrod FTC4229

IIRC the slave cylinder fitted is FRC8531,

i found the LT77 bearing FTC5200 was 10mm to long, it made the clutch slip because it was under constant contact with the pressure cover , the UTJ100210 is shorter & works fine,

I think the 300tdi R380 slave cylinder/pushrod & bearing are different

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The way i do it is, connect flexi hose to slave, unbolt slave from bell housing. Connect piece of flat bar across end of pushrod hole and secure using 2 long bolts through the slave cylinder mounting holes. Let it all dangle vertically under vehicle, bleed nipple will then be at top - bleed system.

Its also worth noting that following a clutch change, master or slave cyl change, the master cylinder push rod free play at the pedal box will need adjusting.

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I've had bad trouble bleeding clutches before, but it was always because I did it on level ground. The vehicle nose needs to be raised to make sure the fluid is at the piston end of the slave and the air at the bleed nipple end. Try it with front axle lifted3"or more off the ground (use axle stands and chocks, since you'll be going underneath).

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clutch fork is fine

no resistenceclamped the slave with

so piston could not come out

then bled it

when bled push the clufch is solid against clamp cant push clutch down

take of clamp put back in bellhousig no resistance felt

bolted back up and onlt about half inch of pressure

and pedal staye down?????


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