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Ex-MOD Defender 90 re-spray


jameshub
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How long is a piece of string? Me and me oppo run a bodyshop, YOU have to consider to what standard you want it done to Stripped hood/doors/panels/seatbox gone by pros in a booth with any grot in bulkhead/dorrs addressed or just a cheap tart up?

Will cost anything between cost of 5l of paint and £ks!!!

If its just a 'freshen up' and you are on a budget and you use it for work/laning jsut strip doors/lights/bumpers and flat with 400 and roller it with 5l of NATO green(DONT use surplus stuff if its IRR) and mix 10/20% white spirit/thinners.

If you are in South Devon and want a chat/price drop me a line.

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unfortunately i am in Essex so South Devon is a bit far, but cheers for offer

i'm just looking to smarten it up a bit and get rid of the camo finish as i've only just got it and will be keeping it for couple of years i expect. I've seen a youtube clip about using a roller so i think thats the way i'll be going to keep cost down.

what do you mean 'flat with 400'? - sorry not really up on this stuff

any recommendation where to buy the NATO green paint from?

do you use anything on the paint after it has dried, to finish it off?

Cheers

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Try E-Bay for the paint - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/e-paintbays-Military-Vehicle-Paint-2-5-Litres-5Litres-/270900219804?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Paint_Varnish_MJ&var=&hash=item3f12e94f9c

Flattening with 400 means get some 400 grit paper and flatten the paint, i.e if it was a normal paint job you would remove the shine leaving a smooth dull coat which the paint will adhere too.

400 grit paper - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DEERFOS-wet-and-dry-sanding-sand-sandpaper-mix-grits-400-2000-pack-of-10-sheets-/110975579417?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item19d6a8f519

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i recently sprayed mine with the nato green satin finish,dont use matt finish it seems to hold the muck and looks a mess after a while,the military type paint is really easy to spray,i was bit nervous as this was my first time ive sprayed a motor,just dont hold the spray gun to close and dont be tempted to spray it too thick,thin layers, the more time you spend on prep and masking the better the results,but with the military paint it is quite easy for the less experianced

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=80713

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Hi again1

Firstly apologise to anyone if they thought i was trying to get a free plug in for the business, i wasnt (honest) HOWEVER always willing to help anyone from the forum out with free advice over a brew in the unit, not a problem!

Righto...................

If its already in military type finish and you want to tart it up a bit, my opinion?

DONT go for a colour change, it looks shockingly bad even on a tatty old car (no offence meant!) when sills/shuts/under bonnet/interior doesnt match.

Just do the whole lot in NATO green as i think oyu have said to lose the black. As has been said, matt holds oil/grease/muck/poo and i a monkey to keep clean. Satin is easier to keep clean as traps less muck. I have used fascinating finishes off ebay but plenty who mix it. As previous if you buy from surplus make sure IT IS NOT IRR PAINT, it will make you ill if you get it wrong.

Right, to do it properly but with a good result and for sensible money? As with any paint job , finish will be as good as the prep.

wash it, take it to 50p machine and give it a bloody good clean/power wash.

STRIP!! take off doors, bonnet , arches , bumpers , lights,door rubbers. strip doors, take off handles , take off door tops, take off any chequer plate. You get the idea. Less is more!

You now want to flat it back (sand it down). Use 400, go to screwfix and get a cheap electric random orbital sander or B+Q own brand range. Do all the panels , everything in 400. Do anything fiddly/returds/edges by hand. If anything is flakey or looks like its falling off , use 240 or even 180 on it and take all loose off.

You should now have a completely flatted (sanded) body. Dont worry about filling/dent removal - its a landy!!

You might have gone thr to bare metal in places , dont worry, buy a rattle can of etch primer and spary any exposed metal. DONT flood the exposed metal as if you are trying to paint it- you only have to put a mist on it for it to work.

You now need to give the body a good clean. Use panel wipe/ panel degreaser DONT use thinners it might lift paint (thinners isnt designer for cleaning bodies). Get some blue roll from motor factors and just wipe it all down.

Now the best bit.................... nearly ............

Mask it up/bag it up. You will get paint in places you dont mean to especially if doing it by hand. paper masking tape and paper , cover over door openings, engine bay, use tape very carefully to cover light base edges (you have removed the rear lenses already havent you?)that sort of thing. ANYTHING you dont want painted, tape or bag(cover in plastic) To do the front screen get a few meters of electrical wire and lift the rubber and put the wire underneath to hold it off the body, tape the rubber to mask it, you can now paint under rubber by hand without the rubber looking like a half painted dogs dinner.

One last wipe over, nearly there.................

get you paint, mix it up with 10% thinner/white spirit (whatever manufacturer recommends) and start painting!!! Use a 1" brush to do shuts and edges, do this first then you can roll over the brush strokes(or get as close as possible to lose brush strokes) .use 4" gloss rollers to do panels afterwards, it wont take long.

repeat and give it two coats.

materials and any cheaperalternatives?

Shop around for paint and chaps on here will point you in direction of preferred sellers/quality.

1" brushes - dont skimp - when the brush molts you will wish you paid an extra £1 - B+Q premium range will do it.

Masking tape- motor factors/ebay - B+Q etc will fleece you for single rolls. Buy a couple rolls of 1" and a couple of 2"

4" gloss rollers - ebay own brand is cheap as chips (foam ones) or ebay you can get packs of ten quite cheaply.

Paper- you can get proper rolls of masking paper from paint factors - dont bother,they wont sell rolls samll enough for what you need- beg steal and borrow newspapers from neighbours etc

Bagging- plastic to mask it - wont need it if you are rollering it TBH. If you need to cover seats etc just use black bags/cheao b+q plastic paint sheet thingies.

Panel wipe/degreser - local body shop factors, 1 litre will do

paper towel- Factors will sell you a pack of 6 blue garage rolls for less than £15, if you are handy with a set of spanners buy one of these - helluva lot cheaper than kitchen roll from supermarket.

Dont worry about using tack cloth - its a landy FFS lol

Think thats it. Might have missed something out, will re read it in a mo. Should be able to do all of the above in a long weekend (very long! haha) PM me if you need any pointers.

most of all ENJOY!!

If you decide to spray remember it WILL go everywhere and you will need a big enough space to get around the vehicle. You will also need to make sure compressor/gun etc are compatable ie compressor makes enough air for the gun.

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mcc1979ian - thanks for this info on paint and paper....cheers

19MART82 - good recommendation about Satin finish, yours looks absolutely awesome mate, very jealous!

ELVIS - awesome.....thats for taking the time to right this (just what i needed), idiots guide.....liking the wire under the rubber round window, never would have thought about that. I will certainly enjoy doing it, although i think i might take a few extra days off work to ensure i have a long weekend....i'm sure to make mistakes! - but its a landy, so who cares!

I should probably start a new post for this and i will, but i've heard some bad things about the Goodyear G90 years it currently has and i must admit in the wet (and lets face it, this is UK so it rains a lot) they aren't great.....any recommendations for all terrain tyres that are good??

cheers again

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Just rough up the top coat you have now and roller the NATO green on it will give you a quick easy result and if you can find some genuine NATO paint then it will stick to anything!!!

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I should probably start a new post for this and i will, but i've heard some bad things about the Goodyear G90 years it currently has and i must admit in the wet (and lets face it, this is UK so it rains a lot) they aren't great.....any recommendations for all terrain tyres that are good??

cheers again

I use cooper ATR's on my L200, had a set on for over 4 years now and cant fault them, but also got general grabbers on the disco and they seem equally as good. Have had both the AT2 and now the new AT. If i had a preference though it would be the coopers, Will be buying the ATR3's when they need replaced soon.

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  • 5 weeks later...
Hi again1

Firstly apologise to anyone if they thought i was trying to get a free plug in for the business, i wasnt (honest) HOWEVER always willing to help anyone from the forum out with free advice over a brew in the unit, not a problem!

Righto...................

If its already in military type finish and you want to tart it up a bit, my opinion?

DONT go for a colour change, it looks shockingly bad even on a tatty old car (no offence meant!) when sills/shuts/under bonnet/interior doesnt match.

Just do the whole lot in NATO green as i think oyu have said to lose the black. As has been said, matt holds oil/grease/muck/poo and i a monkey to keep clean. Satin is easier to keep clean as traps less muck. I have used fascinating finishes off ebay but plenty who mix it. As previous if you buy from surplus make sure IT IS NOT IRR PAINT, it will make you ill if you get it wrong.

Right, to do it properly but with a good result and for sensible money? As with any paint job , finish will be as good as the prep.

wash it, take it to 50p machine and give it a bloody good clean/power wash.

STRIP!! take off doors, bonnet , arches , bumpers , lights,door rubbers. strip doors, take off handles , take off door tops, take off any chequer plate. You get the idea. Less is more!

You now want to flat it back (sand it down). Use 400, go to screwfix and get a cheap electric random orbital sander or B+Q own brand range. Do all the panels , everything in 400. Do anything fiddly/returds/edges by hand. If anything is flakey or looks like its falling off , use 240 or even 180 on it and take all loose off.

You should now have a completely flatted (sanded) body. Dont worry about filling/dent removal - its a landy!!

You might have gone thr to bare metal in places , dont worry, buy a rattle can of etch primer and spary any exposed metal. DONT flood the exposed metal as if you are trying to paint it- you only have to put a mist on it for it to work.

You now need to give the body a good clean. Use panel wipe/ panel degreaser DONT use thinners it might lift paint (thinners isnt designer for cleaning bodies). Get some blue roll from motor factors and just wipe it all down.

Now the best bit.................... nearly ............

Mask it up/bag it up. You will get paint in places you dont mean to especially if doing it by hand. paper masking tape and paper , cover over door openings, engine bay, use tape very carefully to cover light base edges (you have removed the rear lenses already havent you?)that sort of thing. ANYTHING you dont want painted, tape or bag(cover in plastic) To do the front screen get a few meters of electrical wire and lift the rubber and put the wire underneath to hold it off the body, tape the rubber to mask it, you can now paint under rubber by hand without the rubber looking like a half painted dogs dinner.

One last wipe over, nearly there.................

get you paint, mix it up with 10% thinner/white spirit (whatever manufacturer recommends) and start painting!!! Use a 1" brush to do shuts and edges, do this first then you can roll over the brush strokes(or get as close as possible to lose brush strokes) .use 4" gloss rollers to do panels afterwards, it wont take long.

repeat and give it two coats.

materials and any cheaperalternatives?

Shop around for paint and chaps on here will point you in direction of preferred sellers/quality.

1" brushes - dont skimp - when the brush molts you will wish you paid an extra £1 - B+Q premium range will do it.

Masking tape- motor factors/ebay - B+Q etc will fleece you for single rolls. Buy a couple rolls of 1" and a couple of 2"

4" gloss rollers - ebay own brand is cheap as chips (foam ones) or ebay you can get packs of ten quite cheaply.

Paper- you can get proper rolls of masking paper from paint factors - dont bother,they wont sell rolls samll enough for what you need- beg steal and borrow newspapers from neighbours etc

Bagging- plastic to mask it - wont need it if you are rollering it TBH. If you need to cover seats etc just use black bags/cheao b+q plastic paint sheet thingies.

Panel wipe/degreser - local body shop factors, 1 litre will do

paper towel- Factors will sell you a pack of 6 blue garage rolls for less than £15, if you are handy with a set of spanners buy one of these - helluva lot cheaper than kitchen roll from supermarket.

Dont worry about using tack cloth - its a landy FFS lol

Think thats it. Might have missed something out, will re read it in a mo. Should be able to do all of the above in a long weekend (very long! haha) PM me if you need any pointers.

most of all ENJOY!!

If you decide to spray remember it WILL go everywhere and you will need a big enough space to get around the vehicle. You will also need to make sure compressor/gun etc are compatable ie compressor makes enough air for the gun.

I'm trying to find orbital sander pads which are 400, but i'm struggling, so the exist?

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I normally use a 120 or 180 to flat back camo paint, it's normally laid on thick and nasty so clogs up quickly if using a fine paper.

Make sure you wear a face mask when sanding - the military IRR paint is toxic

Once you've got rid of the cracks, peeling bits, lumps and bumps, you can finish the surface off with some 400 wet & dry paper which is fairly quick to do.

Do remove as many of the bolt on bits as you can as already mentioned, it will make for a much neater job.

If you're using a roller, either use the wool type rollers or get a good stock of foam ones - depending on the type of paint you get and what it's thinned with, it disolves the foam after a few minutes. you'll need some brshes too, and just like decorating your living room, do the corners and bits you cant get a roller into first.

If you need paint, do a google search on automotive paint supliers in your area, then pop in and ask for 2.5 litres of NATO green satin synthetic , and get a litre of fast flash thinners, or white spirit to thin it down with.

Bear in mind the temperature at the moment as well - best to do it indoors or wait till spring.

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