Jump to content

Am I a Defender owner or a Series 111 owner?


Recommended Posts

Ok, now I know this will make me look like a right turkey, but I am not sure if I should be using this section of the forum or the Series section.

I bought a Landrover 110 hardtop van on fleabay, which was described as a defender. However the decal on the rad cover panel says Landrover 110, and no mention of defender.

Does this mean I am on the wrong bit?

Eric

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Roundy roundy spring thingys at each corner, no leafsprings under there as far as I can see.

The reason I wanted to check is that I want to get some footwell repair panels for it but they are sold as series or defender versions and the dates for each of these is a bit confusing coz they are sold as defender after 1991 and series before that year.

VERY CONFUSING FOR US LANDY NEWBIES.

Every other part I have bought has been identified as just "landrover 110/90" or in some cases "rangerover classic but will fit defender " without modification.

Eric

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If we are doing pedant type stuff...

First they were badged One-ten and Ninety, later on (around G reg-ish?) they were badged 110 and 90, prior to ther Defender name appearing to coincide with the arrival of the Tdi engine.

Oh and lift handle doors ran until C-reg trucks, like mine :i-m_so_happy:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had an ex M.O.D. 110 1990 reg. It had a civilian reg number which stayed with it. No roof ribs or bonnet lock but had push button door handles and winding windows. It was a 2.5 petrol and also had painted cappings. I think there will be some things that will be better discussed on the series forum (mostly engine) but in the main I would put most questions via the Defender forum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Roundy roundy spring thingys at each corner, no leafsprings under there as far as I can see.

The reason I wanted to check is that I want to get some footwell repair panels for it but they are sold as series or defender versions and the dates for each of these is a bit confusing coz they are sold as defender after 1991 and series before that year.

VERY CONFUSING FOR US LANDY NEWBIES.

Every other part I have bought has been identified as just "landrover 110/90" or in some cases "rangerover classic but will fit defender " without modification.

Eric

same part for both models, go to http://www.yrmlandrover.com/epages/BT3575.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT3575/Products/004A nicely made 7 not great hassle to fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did someone say ribbed roof ? :)

Don't forget the last name change from Defender to Transit in 2007 ;)

Mo

The ribs are items of god given beauty, if you remove them all the kittens in the world will die.

HTH

Mo

CW did you intend to reply to these ???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did someone say ribbed roof ? :)

Don't forget the last name change from Defender to Transit in 2007 ;)

Mo

The ribs are items of god given beauty, if you remove them all the kittens in the world will die.

HTH

Mo

CW did you intend to reply to these ???

I suppose I should have added a few words, but I felt the quote of Mo's from 2011 said it so eloquently that any I added would detract from it. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

HaH! Had a good chuckle at all your replies, cheers gents.

I have a hole in the top of my radiator cover panel on the front surface at the top, I assume is meant for the key barrel to fit into. I did wonder because I couldnt think what would have exitted at the front above the bull bars and lights.

Anyway, Mine has ribs and little vents at the rear but I will be changing it for a smooth top, (sorry CW) only because I have had problems in the past where water made its way in under the ribs and through the joint under there and it was almost impossible to stop without removing the ribs, sealing and re-riveting. I have a hatred for water dripping on my head INSIDE a vehicle. I managed to stop it leaking for a while by painting the whole roof with liquid rubber but its actually cheaper to replace the roof!

Here's a quick list of mods and replacements I have plans and parts for:

Replace enormous original steering wheel with a smaller wheel and low profile boss (done) can now drive it without the window wound down.

Replace seat box. (got parts) The panel under the battery was completely rotted and replaced with a 1/8th inch thick untreated piece of internal ply wood. the battery bounced well whenever you went over a bump and probably would have ended up dumped in the middle of a field at some time.

Replace the horribly ripped front seats with RRC leather seats with heaters and adjusters. (My missus insisted on comfy heated seats for when we take the dog out. Personally I find they make me feel like I have wet myself). I was going to replace the sticky and shredded front seat belts but the seats came with seatbelts in good nick so I can use them.

Remove the bulkhead behind the front cabin to allow rearward adjustment for the seats. Thats for me, long legs I am afraid. Got cramp driving the Landy home from Bristol when I bought it.

Replace the hand brake lever with a range rover top-mounted one bolted to the left side of the middle seat box. The original is too far forward for my taste. Using it was what gave me cramp on my maiden voyage.

Replace non-functioning heater blower, again for the missus.

Replace windscreen and seal with heated type. Leaks like a seive at the moment through all the cracks all around the edge. A heated one will reduce the chance for the heater fan to let me down in winter.

Replace or repair both front door bottoms where they flap about in the wind at the moment. Might get some with electric winders but that might be an extravagance too far. I did wonder about replaceing the whole rear tub with a snatch body advertised on fleabay for £400 complete with front armoured doors but the doors look like the windows drop out rather that down, and it would make the whole truck a bit heavier. I would like the full height entry doors at the rear though.......

Calm.....

Remove, sand blast and respray all of the body panels. Bought myself a 3 HP compressor and sand blaster for christmas so could have great fun taking off the 5 layers of paint on there. Can then prep and flatten out any bumps before respray.

Sand blast and respray/seal the chassis. There is some surface rust but havent found any serious rot in any of the outriggers or main chassis.

Replace wheel bearings all round.

Replace all springs for heavy duty ones with 2-4 inch lift depending on eventual plan for rear tub.

Replace brake drums with disks but I understand this would probably mean changing the rear axle?

The engine is a 300td with a td5 gearbox I think, Its 5 speed and could probably do with a new clutchplate, 2nd gear is hard to get to from 1st but easier from 3rd.

Oh and replace the footwells for now, maybe replace the bulkhead completely later on when the side panels start to rot.

All together a nice list to be getting on with.

Maybe I should rent a lock-up while I am doing all this. My drive is getting a bit full with parts and my sankey trailer.

Eric

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy