Jump to content
ThreePointFive

4.0 GEMS engine swap

Recommended Posts

Your last two paragraphs are beautifully and accurately put. Over here you could add that despite a part being made of exactly the same materials as it would be for any other car, apparently as soon as it's meant for some sort of Land Rover it will fail/isn't worth their time/you're crazy for wanting one and why don't you own a Toyota you weirdo. 

Those -AN fittings and hoses seem to be the ultimate - though I must actually get some and see for myself.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Davo said:

Your last two paragraphs are beautifully and accurately put. Over here you could add that despite a part being made of exactly the same materials as it would be for any other car, apparently as soon as it's meant for some sort of Land Rover it will fail/isn't worth their time/you're crazy for wanting one and why don't you own a Toyota you weirdo. 

 

You're not kidding.  Every time I go for a warrant of fitness, I have to endure the "it's a Land Rover, something must be wrong" mentality.  This time it was "brakes pull to left" - except I can take my hands of the wheel, apply the brakes firmly and the steering wheel stays pointed straight ahead.  That will be hard to improve.  And he wanted me to fit things it never had from new - so I told him to check what the law says.  He will but what a hassle.

(Sorry about the off-topic rant but this page was what I opened my computer up to!)

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I always try to avoid custom made parts if I can, I chose my disc brake kit because it uses Defender parts

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After a year and a half living away from my project (and a house move to get suitable garage space) , I've decided this year is the one to get on with this build. I still have the majority of the hard parts in front of me, but I have a rough plan.

So a quick summary: my exhaust has gone back to the supplier as it didn't fit together properly, might be the car's fault but I have asked them to put it on jig and prove or disprove where the wonkey bit is.

Wiring is going to be the most complicated part. The MS loom is still an utter mystery/misery to me so the car doesn't start but I'm sure at some point I'll open the garage door and it'll just be finished. I'm not sure left in my hands I will ever get it done.

I am trying to build up the bulkhead so it's ready to take the main TD5 loom so I can make the later dash style of buttons work. I have run the chassis loom along the top of the chassis rail, this is also a TD5 one so matches the main loom. Some are has cut all the wires going to the (I assume) ECU, so I am yet to see how I can get power to it and make all the bits work.

The current and most pressing problem is the panel that the vent mechanisms are connected to - there doesn't seem to be an agreed name for this so googling has been a real issue. I have put pictures below, but it looks like I am missing some brackets as there is just no way to fix it to the bulkhead. Can anyone confirm if this is the case? Also none of the holes correspond with any holes in the bulkhead, so it is not clear how that will fix. It also looks like it will foul the steering column too support.

Is there a difference between early and late TD5 dashes to take the facelift dash? I have seen people fitting these dashes to pre-TD5 cars so it must surely be possible to make this work....

Laslty, vent fly screens.... Is the black plastic blanking plate meant to be on the driver's side? If so, rubbish.

Any and all help gratefully received.

 

Mods - understand if this is too limited interest to remain in this section of the forum.

20190409_201717.jpg

20190409_201740.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What's got you stumped on the MS loom? I'm sure we can get you running.

Vent panel thing I don't know the name either but I'm doing the same bit on the 109 right now so am moderately familiar with it. The bottom row of screws (lower lip) go into the square plastic nutserts in the bulkhead just below the grilles. The upper row go into the dash top somehow - captive nuts, J-nuts or something depending on the year.

Here's the only vaguely useful pics of mine I've got - bit different as it's Series bulkhead & Defender panel but they're very similar.

20180417_220057.jpg

 

20180416_221848.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, these might help. 1996 300TDi

IMG_9094.thumb.JPG.85c646336320951d69d56c67d2ebe45e.JPG

IMG_9092.thumb.JPG.a7c467f6b34c75905a2b59bcf52bda60.JPG

IMG_9091.thumb.JPG.35e9f4a848782e96c68c6747918742cd.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

IMG_9095.thumb.jpg.bc3e4c87247512a7a038358877b8caf9.jpg

 

Edit: Sorry about single pics in posts but the upload wasn't happy, even after reducing the size and then trying to add a second in 'edit' mode.

 

Edited by Peaklander

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎4‎/‎9‎/‎2019 at 9:30 PM, ThreePointFive said:

Mods - understand if this is too limited interest to remain in this section of the forum.

Nope, it's still interesting, glad you're still at it! Keep up the progress!

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You guys are brilliant. It's obvious when you see it done...

I had a whole heap (literally over 1000) of reference photos when I took the thing apart, but 8 years and one dead hard drive later, things are a bit fuzzy.

The real sh*tter is losing my supply of lokut nut things (what kind of a name is that anyway?) so there is nothing to screw anything onto. Given my plan this weekend was to put the dash in so I can better work out the cable routing, it could be better. Don't suppose anyone has all the part numbers and quantities for all of the ones on a TD5 bulkhead? I should probably mention, my old PC with microcat on it died. Great. Even better, that was my favorite tool for working out which parts go where.

In conclusion, all the resources I had for making sure I didn't become a forum pain-in-the-bumhole are now U/S.

So here are the photos from where I now am with the four lokuts (honestly, is that a word?) I salvaged from the floorboards that didn't get mangled on extraction.

 

Steve, I hope you mean interesting and not fascinating, in that "cant look away" car-crash sense that a certain other forum member with 14 L322s has mastered...

 

20190412_183829.jpg

20190412_183835.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:

Steve, I hope you mean interesting and not fascinating, in that "cant look away" car-crash sense that a certain other forum member with 14 L322s has mastered...

Definitely not! What's not to love about a mega squirted V8 90 with a TD5 dash, its all the best bits, but just takes a bit of time to get it all right. And the dash is one of those extra fiddly parts that you can't rush!

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Best way to finish it is to start it, I'm with Steve on this.

Mo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

So after having my plans for fitting the dash this weekend fall apart, I started the jobs I didn't want to do. Most of this is about getting parts off the shelves and finally onto the car.

Last night I fitted a Gwyn Lewis track rod guard. Had it for years but didn't want to arse around with adjusting the bar, so finally bit that particular bullet. It was really straightforward and retaining the ARB mounts on the axle made this 200 million times better.20190413_211731_1.thumb.jpg.dda2081ee6f4130fa3bf1bee923a6e3d.jpg

Next I fitted the gearbox cross member. Sounds stupid, but it was...unpleasant. A very tight fit, due in part to being galvanized and painted thickly over that for good measure. Required a jack, a mallet and some persuasion. I'm sure the coating will have suffered, but I am not sure how else it could ever fit.

While that was going on, I prepped my old diff guard for paint. Again, not exactly a priority job but it does need doing eventually and it gets one more thing ticked off. The guard is galvanized but was still rusting, and the black helps hide the cringey logo. 

20190413_224641_1.thumb.jpg.4d94d48660f74c2023bb25da9f920627.jpg 

It was far too cold to be painting, hence the runs but I'd rather that than not enough paint.

The cross member drew my attention back to my unfinished work with the routing of the chassis loom and petrol pipes. I'm still in a quandary about this as my 3.5 setup was metal piped. I up-sized the filter because I was advised the EFI-suitable fuel pump would blow the t*ts off the old one, but that meant I lost the mount and housing. I will do my own research on what others have done as I'm sure the information is available.

20190413_211805.thumb.jpg.6384f68e5d7adcb3a84a15c540d961ea.jpg

I originally used a method for routing the chassis loom that I have a horrible feeling I learnt from watching Roadkill - large cable the around the chassis leg with a small one to secure the harness itself. I know this looks like insanity, but I was going to replace this once the car is running, at the moment I just want to lay everything out. I've seen the various ways people suggest but most involve drilling, which I'm not prepared to do on this chassis. That said, I need to find a solution ASAP because the tub is due back from the painter sometime next month.

20190413_211814_1.thumb.jpg.1f009c7c5991d57cfe91cf637d7743c1.jpg

I have been trying to find the right oil cooler pipe for this engine, but having bought two more since my last post on that subject, I have given up. The outlets are just too shallow and all the genuine pipes have an inch of pipe extending out from the threaded nut which means it gets nowhere near seating properly. Using a post from Dangerous Doug's build and noting what Fridge has said numerous times about the Freelander fittings, I bought two M22 to 3/8" male-male adaptors in the hope this would give access to far more pipe and fittings options. I have abandoned the motorsports ones I previously discussed as I think I can make my own for a fifth of the price. However, I should have checked the inlet/outlet size on the oil cooler itself, because they are also M22... Meaning I have created a bottleneck by reducing to 3/8" . This raises all sorts of questions over oil flow; lowering volume but increasing pressure, etc. I know there is debate over even needing a cooler, but if course limiting flow is a bad move either way. More investigation required.

20190413_122442_1.thumb.jpg.fb17e53d8e75e3b5fb12d2299f4f0803.jpg

 

A while ago I ordered the seals for the vent flaps, but somehow Microcat gave what I now know to be the numbers for Series 3 seals. I understand people have swapped to these on Defenders, but I must have a bad batch or something, as they are far too big and the flaps would be under immense pressure if they were closed on them. I will have to revert to standard seals...once I have removed the copious sealant I used to try to make these ones work.

 

20190413_161639_1.thumb.jpg.55f5a56909424b1965bf4fb79b25914b.jpg

 

Lastly, I have been sorting out the ME loom at the engine side, using Fridge's P clips approach. This is starting to make it look almost manageable and a lot less intimidating, though for me the confusing part is all at the ECU end, so the fun will start when I get there.

20190413_211828_1.thumb.jpg.98d9f0d810d304f77f7ed75c741f05ad.jpg

20190413_224345_1.thumb.jpg.572465697a63521e0b5bb80f09de127c.jpg

Still, a huge improvement over how it looked coupled with the main bulkhead loom...

20190403_193558.thumb.jpg.9971ca3de7fb1f5dffe721c2a0bbb2df.jpg

 

All in all a disappointing day, but at least some jobs got ticked off list.

Edited by ThreePointFive

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Progress is progress, and you should take the positive from that! I think we have all had days where we planned to do something but had to revert to using the time on different stuff instead for whatever reason.
 

I feel your pain with the gearbox crossmember installation, I had the same on mine- it's not the most pleasant experience!

Keep chipping away, it'll be great when done!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure why you are disappointed. You made great progress in a day!

Bit confused on the oil line stuff, I think fridge worked out that they can just be blanked where the oil cooler can be connected. What is your plan?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I suppose it's disappointing because I did get some jobs completed but the frustration is that a lot of this will need to be redone. Even fitting the cross member wasn't a final fix as between moving house, I have lost some of the bolts and washers. It wouldn't be a problem but they're very specific lengths and the washers are of course not fully round, so again quite specialised. So now I need to find specs for the bolts and part numbers for the washers to finish this off. The holes are all fine for M10, but my box of parts has a lot of M8 bolts so this is another case where access to Microcat would remove the question mark.

The vent flaps are another example, clearly they need painting anyway, but to find out they cannot fit with these seals was a huge annoyance.

The chassis loom and fuel pipe location in particular is a job that I'll have to come up with a permanent solution to, so arguably laying it out just to find a route and make sure it clips into the main loom is a pointless exercise.

The oil cooler one is tricky.I want to run the cooler as I had terrible heating issues on the 3.5 and from what I understand, lots of P38s died thanks to heat-related head gasket failures. It is just my opinion but anything I can do to allow the system to better control temperature has to be a positive. There is also a huge amount of stubbornness on my part, as I paid for the addition of a cooler into the Allisport rad, so The same thing better work... I have added complexity by doing this, and threads like this don't help. I am not sure the fittings I have bought will adequately redirect oil as that is the sole function of the bits that stop the genuine pipes from fitting. The irony.

I have a Gwyn Lewis tank guard that I wanted to fit, underbody protection is something I value and I know it's more for challenge trucks and this car is firmly for gentle off roading, but it's not like running a set of boggers on the way to Tescos. However, I have reconsidered as I don't want to drill the chassis at all if I can help it. So if anyone wants a brand new (but 7 year old) guard like this then I'll be open to reasonable offers. Better, if anyone knows of a good guard that doesn't require drilling, I'd appreciate the advice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will try and get down to my shed tonight  and see if there  is a make on my tank guard as I am pretty sure it uses the original mounting holes for the tank. I've only been wait 3 years to fit that and my steering guard...

My fuel filter sits on top of the chassis next to the fuel tank, it's a high pressure filter with a threaded inside at one end and it looks like a nut at the other end but it's part of the casing, genuine part, probably Disco.

For comparison my 1986 90 has a 3.9efi with auto box, a new galvanised bulkhead with Td5 dash but not wired any of the switches in yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Funnily enough I just bought a bucket of "lokuts" for my dash, I didn't pick part numbers - I just bought the black ones as they look smarter :D you need the BIG red ones for the larger holes / to hold the dash cowling on.

I also bought a party-pack of ZP J-nuts and U-nuts as I couldn't be faffed to work out which size/shape was needed where:

Kayfast selection pack

 

As others have said, progress is progress - if you hit a wall with one thing, doing another thing is fine, it all needs doing in the end after all! Some days I end up doing "nothing" but putting all the tools away and sweeping the floor because I run out of bits or whatever, but next time out all the tools are in the right place and the floor's clean so it's not wasted :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy