highlandmist Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 While I have the drag link and track rod off to do the TRE's I was going to whip off the whole shebang in order to redo the weeping seals around the swivel housing. The axle end bolts are 12 pointer and appear to be 15mm. I can't even get my 14mm 12 point socket in to check as there's no room in there. Do I need to get a 15mm 12 point ring spanner now or is it 9/16 or something ? I mught try dropping out the 90 oil and putting in one shot, they only started weeping after I loosened the top swivel pin bolts when I did the brakes and hubs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 14mm will fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highlandmist Posted January 15, 2013 Author Share Posted January 15, 2013 14mm will fit Cheers, looks like a wee bit of hammering is in order then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Cheers, looks like a wee bit of hammering is in order then. Brute strength and ignorance is the Landrover way... Getting them loose is easy, wait till you've got to tighten em back up. Look on fleabay for a LONG spanner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Or just cut the open end off a 14mm spanner and slide a bit of small tubing over the resulting "handle", and there you have it. One long-handled 14mm ring spanner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialbikejames Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 If you have loosened the swivel pin bolts then the whole assay will sag under it's own weight and knacker you swivel seals. When undoing the swivel pin bolts support the hub with a jack, when you have the brake hose bracket out tighen the swivel pin bolts back up to support the hub while you carry on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 14mm ring spanner is your friend! As James says, I have a 'specially' modified 14mm spanner just for this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibex94 Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Alternatively.....weld M10 nut to spanner shank this then allows you to use socket and wrench. Most useful on reassembly as it allows you to torque the bolts up correctly. NB torque wrench needs to be at 90degrees to spanner to ensure moment arm to bolt is maintained. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Bob Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Or you can use 2 spanners as in this thread. You'll have to scroll down a bit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 ^^^^ that's how I do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Alternatively.....weld M10 nut to spanner shank this then allows you to use socket and wrench. Most useful on reassembly as it allows you to torque the bolts up correctly. NB torque wrench needs to be at 90degrees to spanner to ensure moment arm to bolt is maintained.Rob Struggling to see how that doesn't change the torque? The important bit is the line between the end of the torque wrench and the bolt? Anyway, There really isn't a need to torque them. Loctite and the double spanner + two grunts is plenty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirocco Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 I must have used 3 grunts because I snapped one of mine! 2 ring spanners together is the boy to get them off and do them up again. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Snapped it putting on or getting it off? I used to use the two spanner method for undoing, but undoing them with the spanners is easy to slip hence the butched 14mm + jack handle to make life easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibex94 Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Using scanners doubled up as shown is not good practice. It may achieve objective at a push but it is not uncommon for the spanner jaw to fail or for the arrangement to collapse on you if used like this. Sleeving the spanner or using a crow foot are both safer / better approaches IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirocco Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Snapped it putting on or getting it off? I used to use the two spanner method for undoing, but undoing them with the spanners is easy to slip hence the butched 14mm + jack handle to make life easier Tightening them back up! Last one on the o/s, too much grrrr, didn't know I had it! when people say FT I always thought that was really FT for me! But I guess I have learn't Using scanners doubled up as shown is not good practice. It may achieve objective at a push but it is not uncommon for the spanner jaw to fail or for the arrangement to collapse on you if used like this. Sleeving the spanner or using a crow foot are both safer / better approaches IMO. True, but if your sensible and logical about it, its not too bad. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highlandmist Posted January 20, 2013 Author Share Posted January 20, 2013 If you have loosened the swivel pin bolts then the whole assay will sag under it's own weight and knacker you swivel seals.When undoing the swivel pin bolts support the hub with a jack, when you have the brake hose bracket out tighen the swivel pin bolts back up to support the hub while you carry on. Yes, as soon as the oil started coming out I realised I should have supported it. Got them all done and put 'one shot' back in. I used a bottle jack to loosen them off, then brute force. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 As a mechanic I have used the combination spanner ring spanner many times. No way would I try using a jack under a spanner.If it slips it'll fly far and wide if it doesn't stop in your face Laser tools make a nice 14/ 17 mm flat long ring spanner that is made for the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highlandmist Posted January 21, 2013 Author Share Posted January 21, 2013 . No way would I try using a jack under a spanner.If it slips it'll fly far and wide if it doesn't stop in your face TBH it ranks pretty low on my " Daft and Dangerous" list but I will be using the spanner method from now on :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jode Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Using scanners doubled up as shown is not good practice. It may achieve objective at a push but it is not uncommon for the spanner jaw to fail or for the arrangement to collapse on you if used like this. Sleeving the spanner or using a crow foot are both safer / better approaches IMO. I have looked far and wide without success for a crow foot that fits the 9/16" (I think it is) swivle housing bolts. I prefer using a torque wrench as I'm not a mechanic and frankly don't have the touch necessary to do the bolts up evenly without. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 14mm is what you need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Even if one would fit a 12 point bolt head I cannot see a crow's foot being very useful on this application as there is no space to rotate it once on and an open ended spanner is going to open up and knacker the bolt head at the sort of torque we are needing here - perhaps why LR fitted 'foolproof' 12 point bolts‽ Chris Edited to ask: Does anyone know why Landrover threaded the flange on the end of the axle anyway, when they could have threaded the disposable swivel housing and fitted the bolts from the other end where one could have got a socket on them and used a ratchet drive??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Edited to ask: Does anyone know why Landrover threaded the flange on the end of the axle anyway when they could have threaded the disposable swivel housing and fitted the bolts from the other end where one could have got a socket on them and used a ratchet drive??? From my experience {SP} many years ago from college. It might have been easier to draw that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 it's 9/16s not 14mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 it's 9/16s not 14mm New bolts I've ordered appear to be 14mm 12 points, with 10.9 stamped on them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 New bolts I've ordered appear to be 14mm 12 points, with 10.9 stamped on them If they have 10.9 stamped then they are metric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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