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Newbie: Disco 6x6 from Spain


o_teunico

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That extra LT230 will be cheaper than four CWP sets to lower gearing for 9.00R16, with the benefit of "underdrive" effect.

Another t-case with centered rear output could be used instead of LT230, but japanesse ones seem to be 1:1 high and G-wagen 1:1 or ovedrive (IIRC 0.85:1).

I really don´t know why I did not thought before in mid-mounted LT230 feeding the two others. This could save the engine relocation, but maybe front axle´s propshaft will be too short.

8x8lt230x3mkii.png

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Yes, I heard that this angles tend to lots of vibrations. This is the case of using centered rear diff from Patrol/GU/GQ with offset LT230.

Maybe the LT230 beeing feeded directly from the gearbox could be turned clockwise for centered output and straight propshafts, but who knows if this will lead to lubrification problems.

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Landy-Novice, with that arrangement axle 4 will be rotating 1:1 in relation to main gearbox, while axles 1 and 3 will be rotating 1.22 or 3.32, depending on transfer gear lever position. Axle 2 will have no drive.

That could be done with a LT95 6x6, like in Perenties and 101s with powered trailers, but axle 2 will remain without drive.

BTW I have discovered that my "half track" idea is nothing new. It has been used, at least, since 1927...

modified-chevrolet-truck-1927.jpg?fx=r_5

Citroen-Kegresse-P-112-of-1936.jpg?fx=r_

van-den-berg-bv-track-truck-1.jpg?fx=r_5

terberg-6x6-and-tracks-1988.jpg?fx=r_550

mercedes-26-29-ak-6x6-and-tracks-1993.jp

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Mmm, I still have the worm drive unit that drove the belly wheels on my old 6x6.My wheelbase at 95'' is now too long for the original 4.00x9 belly wheels to be effective at preventing high centreing. Don't really want half a ton of steel track hanging underneath my truck though.Conveyer belting, whilst ok for snow vehicles wouldn't be durable enough for the type of ground my vehicle would high centre on. Any other ideas on making cheap durable tracks about 1 metre long=2 1/2 metres of track each side?

Teunico, I doubt you would be able to squeeze your transfercase within the Landrover chassis rails,them being only 60cm apart.

The distance from the rear t/case output shaft centre line to the r/h chassis rail on a v8 Rangerover is 16 cm, and the most that the bulk of the gearbox bellhousing will allow the engine to be relocated further left is about 5cm, so you'd only have 20 cm of space in which to fit the formost LT230 which would measure at least 30cm from input shaft centre to r/h/side extremity of casing.

Of course you may be able to clock the additional t/cases down more vertically to squeeze them all in, but that would either screw up ground clearance and/or require that the engine and original transmission be relocated substantially higher up..

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Yes, I imagined that 3 t-cases would´t fit.

I´m thinking about making it a double-cab ute with RRC roof. Spanish regulations say that any lift needs a wheel track increase for maintaining roll over stability.

As RRC is nearly 15cm lower (just by roofs design) I will be able to lift body/engine/springs without the need of super-wide axles.

An engineering company I contacted said that with 60mm spacers + Wolf rims (+20mm track) I will be able to lift the car for about 150mm.

This is not a Landy, but is similar to the thing I will like: a not too long double-cab pick-uk. It only lacks of under seat axle or tracks...

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Strange that with such stringent modification regulations in other areas, that Spain permits the use of wheel spacers.Spacers are strictly prohibited in OZ.

Although I don't envy the economic crisis that you all in the Northern hemisphere are having to endure, I am extremely jealous of your relatively easy access to relatively inexpensive Volvos, Mogs, Pragas et etc. Even if someone gave me one for free the freight costs to get it here, plus bulltish government cleaning, quarantining and possible strip down costs(looking for drugs) make the hassles a little more than I can cope with.

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Spacers MUST be off aproved builder and be homologated ones. Forget about making then at home with a lathe. They must also be studded and for all terrain vehicle max. width gain per axle is 130mm.

About chassis space, yes, it´s tight. At best two T.cases using x-brake and centered engine, but certainly not 3...

1987_19.jpg

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I recall seeing a Landy 6x6 many years ago that used a LandRover centre PTO multi V belt pulley bolted to the pinion flange of the leading rear diff. There was a shaft on pillow bearings bolted above the diff on top of the banjo housing with an identical multi belt pulley on the forward end and a propshaft on the other end running back to the rearmost axle/diff.

Now I'm not suggesting this would be a permanent solution for your transmission layout, even though the owner of that 6x6 claimed it worked ok except the belts slipped when fording. But it would be a relatively cheap and easy method of mocking up your transmission and axle layout, before committing to the engineering and expense of having gear driven pinion mounted drop boxes made to replace the belts and pulleys. The biggest expense with making gear driven drop boxes is fabricating, milling and boring the case itself. The helical gears , shafts, dog clutches etc can be sourced from scrap series Landy transfercases.1 intermediate helical gear plus 2 high range gears do the trick. If you have a friend with a milling machine then the drop box casing isn't too difficult to make either from steel channel section,flat plate, old scrap series swivel balls for bearing housings etc. To accurately bore the holes for the input, intermediate and output shafts, just cut the back wall off a scrap t/case and clamp it to the fabricated box.Only use the intermediate shaft hole and output shaft hole as boring jigs to get a 1:1 ratio.. Once 2 holes have been bored, swing the jig around 180 degrees to bore the 3rd hole.

Doing it this way leaves your LT230 PTO aperture free for an Ashcroft crawler box, once you sell your soul and a couple of kidneys to raise the money to purchase it. :lol:

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Bill - why not replace the wheels/track with a walking-beam type affair? It's not like you need to move fast when you're high-centred.

Do you mean with 2 wheels on each side Fridge? I suppose I could do it with roller chains and sprockets on the worm drive cross shaft.

My question on rubber track material has prompted an advert from a track manufacturer to follow me all over the blogosphere today!

I wonder if a plea for a Volvo 306, free to a good home in Melbourne will yield a similar response?

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Bill - if you're saving bandwidth, use Firefox if you're not already, and download the Adblock Plus, Ghostery and Flashblock addons, these will prevent almost all adverts & things from loading unless you explicitly want them to. Turning off Java/Javascript might also save a fair bit of BW but may break a few websites. Given that an animated advert or facebook button will take up more bandwidth than the text on the page, it's quite a saving. Going to the mobile version of any given website, if available, will also save a load of pretty graphics being downloaded every time.

Back on topic - I meant walking beam as in the reciprocating conveyor sort of mechanism, seemed like it might be easier & lighter than a track mechanism.

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Bill, a friend of mine suggested the belt/chain arrangement for a 6x6, but I simply thought that a pair of belts will not be man enough for the job, but if you have seen it working, then it could be a way to follow. Simple, cheap and effective: just what I want!

This belt will not have problems when fording

0608_hrbp_13_z+2005_pyros_custom_motorcy

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irlanda2143pq.jpgSlightly OT, but I want to show you how a modified vehicle has to be made road-legal in Spain.

-You contact an approved engineer and mechanical lab. They will make all the relative paperwork showing in what way and for what purposes has the vehicle been moddified.

-You cannot make anything by yourself. An approved workshop has to make a certificate indicating how all the work has been done and saying that vehicle´s safety has not been altered.

-You could be asked for strength test if you modify some items, such as seat belt or seat anchoring points.

-MoT station will read and study all paperwork. If it´s everything OK the car will be tested and all the moddifications added to it´s logbook.

If you have a friend owning an approved workshop you could make the work at home and he will make the paperwork. Not 100% legal but a way of taking costs down.

A friend´s disco and his Disco´s logbook

irlanda2166pq.jpg

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Translation

-Installation of 8x16" wheels with 285/74R16 116Q M+S tyres and 30mm spacers.

-Suspension system moddified with TUF BACK BA2524/2525 shocks front/rear and TUF BACK BA2105/2102 coils fore/aft and QT3 trailing arms in both axles.

-Front bumper changed for handmade one with reduced size number plate and rear one changed for handmade one with lower section (compulsory since law insist on 700mm beeing maximum rear bumper height).

-Plastic wheel arches and sill protectors.

-T-Max winch, EW-12500 model (serial number included).

-Places reduced to 5 (it was a seven seater, but parts´ weight needed to be compensated with seat reduction or otherwise VGW will be over the limit with seven seats in use).

-New curb weight 2210kg.

-Height 2130mm, Width 1890mm, Length 4610mm, Rear overhang 1070mm, Front/Rear track 1610mm

-Rear spare tyre carrier taken away.

All paperwork´s bill was nearly 500Eur. , but a new law appeared in february 2010 and now it´s more difficult/expensive.

This same car has a snorkel waiting for fittment, but paperwork´s cost is bigger than snorkel´s price.

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This could be cheap and work properly

Blue:pulley

Green:belt

Red:propshaft

3rd to 4th proshaft will be located left hand for easy belt tensioning and diff clearence when on full articulation.

Rearmost axle pointing rearward as in Bill´s 6x6 for longer propshaft.

8x8troughdrive.png

Bill, do you like this method for track building?

dsc0686884ois.jpg

dsc068701drey.jpg

9377219npn.jpg

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