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Rebuilding PAS Box


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Im intending to rebuild the 4-bolt steering box using a seal kit from Zeus Engineering. Ive been informed that these are a better design than the LR seals. Also i was told that they seal on a different part of the shaft therefore creating a better seal if the shaft is slightly worn.

Havent gone ahead and ordered the seals yet so i was wondering if there is some way i can check the box to see if its even worth working on?

Have looked for a rebuild guide on the technical forum but the link didnt work for me.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a rebuild guide please as never done one before..

Just to add: Ive heard that filling the steering box with one-shot grease instead of the normal fluid is a worthwhile thing to do as well??

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I didn't bother. The chance of the seal kit working vs the cost of an exchange box direct from adwest meant I just bit the bullet. Haven't looked back, has been spot on for the last 6 years or so.

The only slight hiccup was the pump self-disassembling after a few hundred miles. I put this down to the closer tolerances in the new box loading the pump more. I believe its not uncommon for this to happen.

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Well im led to believe that if theres any wear on the shaft then the chances of the replacement LR seals working more than a few weeks are slim. However im told thats why Zeus developed a seal that seals on an unworn section of the shaft.

I was hoping someone on here had actually rebuilt the box?

If someone that has done it says 'dont bother, its a b*ll-ache of a job' then fair enough, i'll save up and shell out for an exchange adwest. The thing is for the price of a seal kit versus £300 its not to be sniffed at..

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Just to add to this, i understood that the Adwest boxes are brand new and they don't require your box in exchange. I got me recently for just over £300 inc postage. Recon ones can be found for around £150, but they don't always have very good reviews

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Jeff certainly had a time of it. Poor bugger. The only thing that would make things easier for me is the fact that the steering box will be on the bench. Still, unless someone has successfully rebuilt one that has actually lasted, i can see me having to shell out.

Are there checks i can do to the box itself to determine whether its a good un? You see the box i have is dry and not connected up to anything..

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I'd be tempted to open it up and look at the wear visible inside - looking at the WSM will show you the important parts to check. I got to the point with my 6 bolt box where there was no adjustment left and it was still wandering. New box has really improved things. New suspension bushes/ and ball joints on the rear end are on the list of things for this summer to make it even better. (all the front ball joints on the steering are new).

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I rebuilt mine using a standard seal kit. I replaced the bushes on the main shaft with some Perkins diesel small end bushes. It's a straight forward enough job for any competent mechanic. It's only been in use for 6 months so early days yet. As you say it's worth a shot.

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Personally, I wouldn't muck about with trying to rebuild the box, If you were to go direct to Adwest and get one from there you'd at least know it'll be brand new and have the usual 1 year manufacturers guarantee with it and you can have any drop arm configuration you'd like and delivered in about 3 days too, + you'd be cutting out the middle man of the likes of Craddocks et-al and saving yourself a lot of time and effort too

JMHO

John

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The Zeus seals are a first class tw@t to fit, but yes they did cure the leak. Trouble was the sudden increase in pressure within the system blew every other bloody seal in the box ( had only done 250K miles....). They also masked a number of other faults - play in the main shaft bearings (the metal powder should have set alarm bells ringing) and generally the box was well shagged. I would say that if your box is only suffering from knackered seals, go for it, for what the seals cost it's worth a punt. If you have box on a bench, so much the better, but they can be fitted in situ, it's just a nasty job drifting then into place. Use a BIG hammer and a length of 1 7/8th exhaust pipe as a disposable drift.

Pull the old seals and if there is metallic powder mixed with goop behind the seal, stop there!

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