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Classic Central Locking


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My drivers Cl has given up. Took the door card off and if you manually pull/push the arm to operates the other doors too but will not operate itself.
I'm assuming the unit itself has died and its sealed so get another.
Bought one of ebay of the correct fitting only to be sent the wrong one and it turned out they didn't actually have the right one. I guess they hoped I wouldn't notice except it won't connect up! They did give a refund and I still have the other one.
Question is can I just whip the connectors off each or are they actually different. I've learnt that mine will always be the more electrically complicated!
Mine has the 5 wire block connector whereas the other is the more bullet type which is the same as the wing mirrors.

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Is the new actuator also 5 wire? If so, it should be possible to splice the wiring to the correct pins of the original connector.

Also, is the new actuator a direct replacement for your orginal unit (i.e. a RRC unit) or a generic CDL unit. The latter may involve a fair bit of messing about to get it to operate the linkages correctly.

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If they haven't asked for the new part back and it is otherwise the same as the failed actuator, then you have nothing to lose. I would hope that each of the wores has the same colour coding, but that might not be the case.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looks like the ebay seller dosen't know his actuators going by the discription.

The master in the drivers door is 4 or 5 wire the others are 2 wire slaves.

Acuators can be repaired but u have to split the case along the seam with a thin blade. Inside you will find a small brushless electric motor and a drive cog that pushes and pulls in rack & pinion style the flat operating rod, that's the rod you hook the lock operating rod to.

The motors can seize due to the hardening of the grease, so free-up the motor and get it spinging again and re assemble you will have to stick the case back or tape together and fit back into the vehicle for the next 20+ years. :)


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