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Exhaust system for Defender V8 auto


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Right it looks like the v8 is going to come out and swapped so it seems a good opportunity to do the exhaust.

Car currently has some hacked about tubular headers lashed to an ill fitting system (previous owner). It leaks and rattles against the chassis so it needs to go.

Would like to use as much std landie stuff as possible starting with a twin port cast manifolds.

So what else should I buy bearing in mind it needs to be cheap as chips and the minimum of modifying parts ( no might these days)

Spoke to griffin at billing as they were the only company who would help with an auto v8, but the money is bit much at the moment with engine swap on the cards

What has everybody else used?

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See if there's a local exhaust-fabrication place you can go to: either someone like "Longlife" [though they are a franchise operation and the individual operators seem to be somewhat variable in quality] or an independent.

If you trailer your vehicle to them and explain what you want they'll do the necessaries; it's not necessarily a wallet-numbing experience (for example, some years back I had "Bell Exhausts" in Swindon make up a stainless-steel exhaust system for a rear-wheel-drive 2.8-litre V6 Mk.3 Escort rally-car - they custom-built it for about the same price as I'd have paid for all the bits for a would-not-fit-properly off-the-shelf system from one of the 'exhaust specialists' who advertised in the rally-car mags).

Truth is, cobbling something together from bits will always be a compromise - and it'll probably have a short life too. Get it done professionally by someone with proper mandrel-benders (so the pipes are not flattened/restricted) and TIG-welded (so it doesn't snap at the welds after a couple of years) is a great investment: nothing good has ever been written about having your exhaust mid-section wrapped round the rear axle in the outside lane of the M62 on a rainy wet Sunday night when you've got to be in Exeter for 09:00 Monday morning.

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The Peterhead franchise for Longlife built a cracker of a system from the manifold for my 200tdi 90. Cost £250 in stainless.

I'm going to get him to build the system for my V8 110 but have bought tubular headers so he has to join them with a y and get out the back. I'm going to ask for a removable centre box...

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The Peterhead franchise for Longlife built a cracker of a system from the manifold for my 200tdi 90. Cost £250 in stainless.

I'm going to get him to build the system for my V8 110 but have bought tubular headers so he has to join them with a y and get out the back. I'm going to ask for a removable centre box...

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I would also go with standard headers as my tubular header in my old v8 90 made access so difficult as they take up so much space.

"Longlife" franchise can vary a lot in quality the one in Battersea was so bad "Longlife" removed the franchise from them.

I would not go for standard OEM parts as the build quality was appalling when trying to out together an exhaust for my V8 disco buggy.

So your option are genuine LR parts which will be expensive if you can get them to match your engine to a standard v8 90 (3.5 or 4.0 birthday edition I think) or a custom stainless from a recommended place.

I would go for the custom stainless from recommended place.

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Don't know if this'll help as mines a manual, but I'm using the twin outlet cast manifolds, disco downpipes and y piece to suit, then td5 90 system from then back. I had to change the gearbox crossmember for a disco one though to fit it

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I've got the same as mikec on my v8 auto - disco manifolds and Y piece into Td5 centre and rear. I had to fit the tubular cross member from the disco too, and have since fitted a mid box replacement to the centre as it was too quiet!

Total cost was just over £100 for new take-off Td5 full system (not all of it used though) plus mid box replacement, and I had the disco bits lying around.

Really happy with the fit, and looks good too.

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Don't know if this'll help as mines a manual, but I'm using the twin outlet cast manifolds, disco downpipes and y piece to suit, then td5 90 system from then back. I had to change the gearbox crossmember for a disco one though to fit it

This is exactly the same as is fitted to my 90. 3.9 RRC manifolds and front section to the Y. Then Td5 rear section inc both silencers. The couplers are a perfect joint, same bolt size and pitch, but I had to take 2" off the front of the Td5 pipe, as the combo was a bit too long. My truck is a factory built V8, converted vehicles may have engines in slightly varying positions.

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I had to fit the tubular cross member from the disco too, and have since fitted a mid box replacement to the centre as it was too quiet!

Total cost was just over £100 for new take-off Td5 full system (not all of it used though) plus mid box replacement, and I had the disco bits lying around.

Really happy with the fit, and looks good too.

The tubular gearbox cross member referred to here gives better clearance on the auto box than the old rectangular one, but is esential to use the RRC down pipes.

I paid £40 for the Td5 rear section,used. Can't remember how much the downpipes were new.

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Thanks guys that's useful. Sounds like need to keep eyes peeled. Mines also a proper v8 chassis with a round cross member.

If its just shortening the td5 system a little may not be too bigger problem

Mines a genuine one too but had the square crossmember, I had to modify the disco one to fit mine as the mounting plates where it bolts to the chassis were different sizes

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Mine was a factory V8 too, and I had to fettle the cross member, but I've not had to shorten anything on the Td5 pipes?

Tailpipe sits in the normal Td5 position - might be due to dubious build tolerances, but I didn't think they were quite that variable...

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Yes, more details are returning to me.

RRC/Disco chassis is not as deep as a 90 chassis, and so bottom cross member fixing required a minor modification.

Earlier vehicles had the rectangular x member, later on they became tubular, and but this is a straight tube, and not kicked up at each side like the RRC or Disco item.

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  • 2 months later...

Right just reviving this.. Finally swapped the engine and put the std manifolds on. Got hold of an esr225 downpipe (disco v8?) to try and match up to a td5 system.

However the downpipes clash with the tubular cross member quite badly. Have i picked the wrong one? I noticed there is a specific rangie auto one NTC7320P. Should I have been this one?

Cheers

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Right just reviving this.. Finally swapped the engine and put the std manifolds on. Got hold of an esr225 downpipe (disco v8?) to try and match up to a td5 system.

However the downpipes clash with the tubular cross member quite badly. Have i picked the wrong one? I noticed there is a specific rangie auto one NTC7320P. Should it be this

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Useful to know and looks like they have a good range of stuff.

But something seems a bit wrong based on other peoples suggestions.

Used to pattern parts being a bit dodgy, but this seems a long way out. Pipes don't clear the cross member, and I thought the crooked tubular x-member is the one to have....

The RHS manifold is not done up and already hitting the x-member. Engine has been out, but looks like its sitting down on the engine mount brackets ok, and it would have to be seriously high to be that far out.

IMG_20130413_103151.jpg

IMG_20130413_111346.jpg

IMG_20130413_111337.jpg

IMG_20130413_111317.jpg

IMG_20130413_103219.jpg

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Downpipes are rangie in the pics (borrowed some others).

Mike looks like you have lifted the member beam up the brackets. Are y running an auto box? Coz when I looked at that thought you could run into trouble with CV clearance to the prop on droop.

Harry do you run the manifold pipes above or below the cross member?

Thanks guys

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Downpipes are rangie in the pics (borrowed some others).

Mike looks like you have lifted the member beam up the brackets. Are y running an auto box? Coz when I looked at that thought you could run into trouble with CV clearance to the prop on droop.

Harry do you run the manifold pipes above or below the cross member?

Thanks guys

No mines a manual, have you altered your crossmember to fit?

Can't rember if I did alter the tube on the brackets, but yours still doesn't look right, the gusset is too low down. Mine looked like this originally

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/range-rover-classic-v8-gearbox-cross-member-/251259426484?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a803a96b4

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Downpipes are rangie in the pics (borrowed some others).

Mike looks like you have lifted the member beam up the brackets. Are y running an auto box? Coz when I looked at that thought you could run into trouble with CV clearance to the prop on droop.

Harry do you run the manifold pipes above or below the cross member?

Thanks guys

Hi Mark,

Pretty sure they are above, I couldn't find any pictures on my laptop and am abroad this week, but can check next weekend for you?

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