Taffia Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Hi, Proud new owner of a 95 army 110 defender lacking fluids. Latest find is the rear Salisbury diff with no oil in it and no thread on the filler hole. Looks like its been shot! Ordered new differ pan/cover and gasket. Can anyone point me to the torque for the bolts when replacing pan? Haynes not helping! Thanks in advance any help or pointers appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 24Nm is what my manual states. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taffia Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 Thanks for the speedy reply. May I ask what manual you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 genuine Defender workshop manual LR publication LDAWMEN93 have a look in http://store.brooklandsbooks.com/lrworkshop.html & http://store.brooklandsbooks.com/lrparts.html & http://store.brooklandsbooks.com/lrowner.html in order workshop manual, parts book, owner handbook. brooklands do reprints of out of date manuals this is the same http://store.brooklandsbooks.com/product447.html my copy is in loose leaf A4 format not a bound copy, they might have both types. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taffia Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 Thanks I got the Haynes to start off but as I am committed to running it 100% DIY maintenance I think I need to invest in some better books. Thanks for the links. Going to pick a fight with a squaddie fitted oil filter next! Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 best wishes with the 'new' motor, not sure if your UK based, add your nearest big town to your profile info & it'll appear under your avatar, you never know if a member lives round the corner a up the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 One caveat - some of the diff pan cover bolts go right through the casting, allowing, over the years, crud to build up and solidify round the tip of the bolt. The bolt is then effectively 'bottomed out'. If your new pan and gasket is slightly thinner the bolt will hit this stuff before it has gripped the pan. The bolt will either push through or if not may tighten to the point of shearing if you try to make it. I'd just clean out the holes after removing the bolts but before taking the cover right off, then you know the bolts will tighten properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 The Salisbury diff pan gasket should be cork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taffia Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Thanks for the tips - new Pan is in hand and ordered 2 gaskets in case - and both are cork Will update everyone on how it goes. I am based East Sussex for my sins. Thanks all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Have a look here for the workshop manual in electronic format http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/category/resources/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Don't bother buying any manuals, you can get all the workshop manuals, parts manuals, Microcat, Rave, etc freely on the web. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jode Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Don't bother buying any manuals, you can get all the workshop manuals, parts manuals, Microcat, Rave, etc freely on the web. You realise of course that printed manuals etc. are typically covered by copyright, and this forum does not encourage breaching copyright rules by downloading material illegally. That said, if you should find freely available material on the web that you suspect may be covered by copyright, the decision to either download or not rests with you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taffia Posted January 30, 2013 Author Share Posted January 30, 2013 Hi All Quick Update - took the white painted diff pan off and surprise there wasn't actually any gasket on there. No broken bits of metal in there just some large red parts and teeth. There was some black spray on the inside of the diff pan that looked slightly metallic but something big. I had done 12 miles in it since I got it - not sure about the 2 weeks prior when it left MOD. Just happy I didn't drive it back and it was trailered the 400 miles. The current diff plan has also been replaced as it had lost the thread off the filler plug - now boring black - but once refilled it it holding its oil so far - I must admit I have to check the torq on the nuts as my wrench starts at 40nm and someone kindly told they were 24 - new wrench time! The tip about using chap-stick to hold the gasket on which I read on her was a gem and saved me the need to grow a third arm - which when working on land rovers should be compulsory along with two heads and an elbow than bends the other way! Hoping its will be OK now and I don't need a new one - but something to be said for DIY maintenance - could have been very bad indeed! Thanks Taffia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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