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Jeep wrangler build


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That looks really good, like the axle bracketry so far for the panhard.

You still aiming for 90 degree approach angle even with axle being moved back?

The axle bracket has been causing me serious head aches, making a hard point that far in front and above the axle case without using big slabs of plate was hard.

It will not have a 90° approach, somewhere above 80° the chassis rails are going to be 34" off the floor though

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Managed to spend some of my bank holiday on the jeep, well the axle panhard mounting at least.

2013-03-29_13-37-08_924_zpsa8c3a03f.jpg2013-03-29_13-57-43_370_zps50c4d301.jpg2013-03-29_18-06-40_679_zps4757c183.jpg2013-03-29_18-07-45_311_zps3ab9d1e6.jpg

That mounting is nearly finished now, just need to add some weld washers and decide whether to plate in the tubes down to the one link.

Then I can figure out how to put some beef into the chassis mounting.

2013-03-29_18-08-17_15_zps357f21c3.jpg

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Thanks Bill,

I am totally happy with the castor,

But i'm not so happy with the pinion angle though I have set it to where I think I won't have oiling issues but it is going to be a bit tight with the front prop.

I have only tacked the diff center housing to the axle tubes so I can rotate it a little if I need to.

Can you guess what the 2 m8 bolts are for?

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Thanks Bill,

I am totally happy with the castor,

But i'm not so happy with the pinion angle though I have set it to where I think I won't have oiling issues but it is going to be a bit tight with the front prop.

I have only tacked the diff center housing to the axle tubes so I can rotate it a little if I need to.

Can you guess what the 2 m8 bolts are for?

I'm taking a really wild guess that the tube from the panhard bracket down to the one link is bolted, so that if you need to tweak pinion/castor angle, you could fit shim washers there,after heating up and bending the One Link?

Or maybe they are to attach a short length of cable or chain from there to the chassis to facilitate lifting the wheels off the ground with a hi lift jack off the chassis? No, really I have no idea what they are for Dan.

Could you fit a Volvo 303 type device that scrapes oil from the side of the crownwheel and funnels it through to the pinion bearings?

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I'm taking a really wild guess that the tube from the panhard bracket down to the one link is bolted, so that if you need to tweak pinion/castor angle, you could fit shim washers there,after heating up and bending the One Link?

The bracket is fully welded on, I'll give you a clue, it'll help the longevity of the track rod ends?

Could you fit a Volvo 303 type device that scrapes oil from the side of the crownwheel and funnels it through to the pinion bearings?

That would probably help, the other problem is when the axle oil level is raised above normal to account for the pinion angle the increased oil level puts more strain on the half shaft oil seals.

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The bracket is fully welded on, I'll give you a clue, it'll help the longevity of the track rod ends?

Sounds very clever, but no you've got me stumped, unless you fit some sort of rubber vibration damper off the bolts that is in contact with the draglink.Pathetic,aren't I ?

Edit, another silly guess. Have you rifle drilled the threaded shanks of the TRE's, going to run a couple of hoses from the chambers where the M8 bolts are to the draglink and trackrod, and have 'one shot' lubrication ?

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Close, but your thinking far to elaborately Bill, think like Dan, driving on rocks, without portals!

I'm going to have a little plastic wear pad for the steering bar to push back onto. I can have it so that the most the steering bar can deflect backward in the straight ahead position is 20mm,

Should stop me from bending the steering bar or snapping the necks off the track rod ends.

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OK, I'm trying to get into the mindset of Dan driving in big rocks, without portals. This brings back memories of a steering failure I had some time ago when attempting to winch and drive through a ditch when the r/h/side front wheel was in an undercut ledge. All 4 studs holding the steering arm to the top of the swivel housing sheared off and the steering arm itself was badly bent. To prevent this happening again, there is a vertical flat surface on the front of series Landy swivel housings, to which I fitted inverted L shaped brackets with 2 M10 bolts. The brackets were fabbed from 2''x1''x1/4'' steel channel section and the long vertical leg of the L progected up and was shaped to capture the steering arm just 1 /3/4'' behind the track rod ends.

Your new steering arms are very beefy Dan, and the G's stud design, with dowel tubes is superior to series LandRovers, but I wonder if the studs would be up to the task of coping with hydro assist turning big rubber against unyeilding rocks without similar additional bracing like I had to do?

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Your new steering arms are very beefy Dan, and the G's stud design, with dowel tubes is superior to series LandRovers, but I wonder if the studs would be up to the task of coping with hydro assist turning big rubber against unyeilding rocks without similar additional bracing like I had to do?
I think the swivel housing itself will fail before the bolts and dowels, there really isn't a lot of material in the swivel housing around the kingpin mountings.

I'm not planning on running hydro assist as the jeep steering box gives loads of assistance.

I'm pretty sure that with the weight fairly low, the steering will just walk the car sideways rather than break anything.

The finished weight should be less than 1700kg I hope.

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Steering box brace, made out of a piece of 60x60 box.

2013-04-01_20-06-49_374_zps3538f29d.jpg

The start of the panhard rod bracket reinforcement,

2013-04-01_20-49-10_165_zpsd8b12c64.jpg

About halfway done, just needs the bump stop bracket on the back of it and some weld washers.

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Started on the shock mountings to distract me from the bump stop brackets.

2013-04-04_22-01-20_923_zpse2b26335.jpg

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Looks amazing Dan, cant wait for the next installment!You said you use to use centre push benders, whats your experience of them?
My thoughts on center push Benders have been quite well covered elsewhere, do a search for a thread by greenstream in the t&f forum, I recall there's some decent tech In that thread.

Anything more specific you wanted to know?

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My thoughts on center push Benders have been quite well covered elsewhere, do a search for a thread by greenstream in the t&f forum, I recall there's some decent tech In that thread.

Anything more specific you wanted to know?

Cheers Dan, Just had a read through.

You mentioned centre push and CDS doesnt tend to mix, What did you use pre JD bender, or do you still use them same spec?

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Cheers Dan, Just had a read through.

You mentioned centre push and CDS doesnt tend to mix, What did you use pre JD bender, or do you still use them same spec?

I have never been able to make a satisfactory bend in cds with a center push no matter what wall thickness I tried.

I used bs1387 of various sizes in my virax center push, the only reason I bought the jmr draw bender is to bend cds to comply with msa specs.

So far I'm liking the cds I'm using 45x2.6 cfs3 and it's cheaper by the meter than 11/2 bs1387 heavy with a higher yield, it bends very nicely.

The biggest headaches I've had are adjusting to the totally different principles between the 2 types of bender.

When I get chance I want to try some 45x3.6 strongbox235 through it, as this was a very strong tube that just about worked with the center push.

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What a project, Will keep and eye on this.

What size press was needed to push the axle tubes out? Been mulling over a project but would need to do a similar thing with salisbury axles.

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What a project, Will keep and eye on this.What size press was needed to push the axle tubes out? Been mulling over a project but would need to do a similar thing with salisbury axles.

Mmmm, the build seems to be moving far to slowly to me.

I push the tubes out using a 90 ton press, the interesting part is machining the welds out.

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