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td5 clutch and dual mass flywheel change


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Hi All,

Soon in next month or so i have to change clutch in my 2003 td5 defender csw and although friend and i have a rough idea having done discovery clutches on 2 and 300 tdi versions neither of us had had the td5 in bits.

neither of us has done a dual mass flywheel before on anything so thats a whole new world.

So can anyone point me to a good guide, any hints/tips and things to avoid, especially concerned about dual mass flywheel.

landy has done 112000 miles, does fairly regular heavy towing so want to get this right and only do once hopefully.

all help massively appreciated

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Just done this with the help of Sir Les of Hensonshire......

As others have mentioned, make sure the loom on the back of the engine is suspended above the bell-housing when refitting...

Also, un-clip the loom from the top of the gearbox before separating the engine and gearbox.

Make sure you disconnect the crank shaft sensor..... They are quite delicate items and come apart quite easily... (Don't ask me how I know...)

I used a Valeo clutch kit with new spigot bush.

Use new flywheel to crank bolts and wise to get new nuts that hold the pressure plate to DMF.

While it was all apart we also noticed the clutch slave seeping... It was replaced.

I'm lucky enough to have a ramp so we dropped the gearbox and transfer back from the engine... Far easier for me when compared to pulling the engine out and losing all my gas in my air-con.... :)


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sounds good neil, dont suppose you or les have any reference to torque settings/recommended suppliers/part numbers do you. i do have a haynes manual but couldnt find what i was looking for.

do have access to engine crane, some ramps to get car up a foot or two and all tools for job hopefully.



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I left all the technical stuff to Les....

I think we did "Effin Tight", "Really Effin Tight", "Watch it that's ally" and "Err.... That'll do..."

I can prolly find the numbers again if no-one has them to hand.... Important ones were the 8 bolts from DMF to crank....

Supplier, I'm lucky to have a great independant near work who will source Genuine / OEM parts as well as All Makes, Bearmach etc. and occasionally there is a Blue box on his counter, but I tend to avoid or refuse those.


If you can't find anyone locally, may be worth making contact and see what it would cost to ship...

So are you going for Engine out or drop Transfer off and move gearbox back??

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hey neil,

sounds like a good lot of nuts and bolts on the two or three grunts tight setting then!

going to go for transfer box off as i need to do seal inbetween it and gearbox anyway and then slide gearbox back i reckon. sounds way way less scary than engine out.

definetly dont want any blue box parts.


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