Bingy Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 Intro and a bit about me Im John, 46 and very much single (through choice). Im A time served welder/fabricator/pipe fitter/industrial gas engineeer/dogsbody. Over the years i have had a few rover cars,- 4 v8 3500 SDi one of which a vittesse - which i successfully did an engine rebuild on. Selling to trade up for a SDi Vanden plas. a Rover 216 (family thing) followed by a rover 800. Then came an Isuzu trooper, then a 4.0 V8 lpg P38 Range Rover. This was my first real step into the world of the green oval. Sadly the Rangie looked well, but had far too many electrical problems for me and as such it was too unreliable - but i still miss it. I now own a D2 TD5 as my daily drive, but this is really a weekend thing and i am mainly sat in a lwb merc sprinter van for work. As much of my work is all over the country, i am usually away for a fortnight at a time. This does have an impact on things as i dont have the time to do the jobs that need doing, but the money certainly helps. If i dont do the hours i have plenty of time but then no spare money and the build stops. I also have to plan in advance, hoping that i can remember to order things so they are available for the next fortnight. I am by NO means an expert, more of a novice when it comes to landrovers, but i do read up as much as i can. I know that i have made mistakes doing this build, but things can be altered later. As time is more of an issue, there is a lot of parts bought off the shelf rather than self made. However, if time was no object, then i would have certainly made a lot more parts than buying them. The build came about as a few of my mates had bought a couple of D1's , on has a 90 and another has a few series 3's with two freelanders thrown in for good measures, all decided to start going off roading. I never intended to go and abuse my pride and joy so i decided to get a 90 just for off roading. We went and watched our local off road club http://www.penninelandrover.co.uk/videos.html but i wasnt keen on that type of event. Having trawlled through masses you tube videos, i enjoyed watching the Mud Monster clips and i decided that i was going to build a challenge truck. So the build begins After scouring the internet for ages, i managed to buy this sorry old girl locally for £600. It had been stood for a number of years and as the owner was moving he needed shut of it. We eventually got the engine running, but couldnt get the clutch to work, so we somehow managed to get her onto the trailer using low box, flicking the starter motor on and off and yanking the handbrake as well. After realising that there wasnt enough room in my single garage to work on her, I asked the council if i could extend. After nearly two years i was allowed to put up a 20 x 24ft shed. As this was going dierectly behind the single garage, i had to build the shed around the 90. So how i have somewhere to work. Lots more to follow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 I like the man-shed! Nice size Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingy Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 So whilst i was sorting out the planning etc i decided to have another go at doing the clutch. Despite several attempts at it i still couldnt get a firm pedal. I ordered a new slave and master cylinder and after putting the mater cylinder on first, it then became apparent that the push-rod on the clutch had gone into the gearbox bell housing. The chassis also looked a whole lot worse than it did when i bought her. Once the man-shed was built, i kept my eyes out for a new one.I managed to pick a new galv'd TD5 one up off the internet at a good price. I had to rope my brother into giving me a lift to get the chassis inside as it was far too heavy to move myself. I decided to paint the chassis to stop folk knowing that it was a galved one once it was built. So first off a bit of T- Wash , followed by some primer then a nice red topcoat. . Axles As the 200 TD had drum brakes on the rear, i wanted discs. After a lot of searching, i came up with a front and rear for a D2 TD5. A bit fabbing needed. New brackets from YRM. I took the old back axle off the original 90 and set the brackets up just as they were fitted. New HD diff pan Whilst the diff was out i removed it and fitted an ARB locker Once the locker was in i rebuilt the axles, then added a bit of paint. After doing the axle i have since found a company that is willing to peg it for me and add some 4.11 crown and pinion gears. All i have to do is send them down to him. Topguy But as its not going anywhere at the moment, theres no rush Nige. But i havent forgot your offer, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 I can thoroughly recommend Nige, he has built both my diffs and the rear one is pegged . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 I like the diff pan, did you press it up or is it a bought in item? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 I like the diff pan, did you press it up or is it a bought in item? They look like the Gwyn Lewis diff pans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingy Posted February 8, 2013 Author Share Posted February 8, 2013 They look like the Gwyn Lewis diff pans Yes, they came from Gwyn Lewis. I did want to alter the axle making a set of rings. One tapped and welded to the axle, the other just drilled then welded to the pan. making it removable for easier access to the diff. However, in the end i just welded it up and then welded it on. The front axle was done more or less the same way. New YRM brackets This was a nightmare. Ended up buying a ball joint removal tool, using my 3/4 ratchet and 4 foot of 2 inch pipe. Got them out in the end. Removed and new ball joints pressed back in All re assembled with new seals and a bit of paint Brake calipers were soaked in kerosene for a week or two, wire brushed, painted then new seals and pistons added. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 Nice work and a solid build, why'd you choose the D2 axles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 How did you set the suspension mounts up? Have you added any caster at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingy Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 Nice work and a solid build, why'd you choose the D2 axles? Thanks. The main reason I chose the axles was that i use a Disco TD5 as my main motor. Only having to buy 1 set of parts, brake pads etc and having spares in the garage seemed to me to be sensible. I have been told that these are the strongest axles Landrover produced. They are also going to be fitted with ashcroft shafts and as mentioned previosly, Nige will be working his majic on the ARBs. The axles are also 4 inch wider than defender axles, getting away from the need to use wheel spacers I also wanted to get away from the exposed swivels on earlier axle models. Having done these now, they might come back and haunt me, But as i havent (yet) done any chassis mods, i can always go back to defender axles and put the internals of these into my daily drive. How did you set the suspension mounts up? Have you added any caster at all? I set the mounts up by removing the old axles off the 90, setting and levelling them up and copying the positions of the brackets exactly onto the new axles. No, i didnt add any extra castor to them. I thought about it, but going down the castor correction arm route. I am aware that it would have been easier to alter them whilst i was re fitting the brackets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingy Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 Onto the suspension Rear New +5 Shockers +2 Springs Poly bushes Adjustable/Greasable A frame Ball Joint HD Gwyn Lewis Trailing arms New Shcok mount droppers New Dislocation cones New spring seats and spring clamps REfurbished brake calpers and dust pans new discs. Front New +2 Springs New +5 Shockers (now blue) New HD Turrets and clamps New spring seats New polybushes New Discs Refurbed brake calipers and dust plates. All nearly fitted Once the suspension was finished i needed to sort out the engine mounting. I ordered a set of mounts from Richards chassis and cut originals off. Then i bolted LT85 gearbox and Lt230 transferbox in. Whilst gearbox and transferbox were bolted and propped with jack, i lifted engine up and bolted it all together. When engine was in place i tacked the mounts in, removed engine and boxes then welded them up. Followed by a bit of galvanised spray protection (borrowed from work) then touched up with red paint. I put it all back in just to see if it was all ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 You will get really sick of mud and debris getting stuck behind those disc shields! What are you going to be driving with the pto? Mechanical winch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingy Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 You will get really sick of mud and debris getting stuck behind those disc shields!What are you going to be driving with the pto? Mechanical winch? Thanks for the advise. Yes, i have since read also about the drilled/slotted discs. Regarding the pto. I intially thought about mechanical, then thought about altering it to run a hydraulic pump. Having read lots on the pro/cons on winches, i have decided at the moment to go electric, just for ease. I needed the transferbox - gearbox - engine all bolted together in order to weld the mounts on and as the pto was still connected i just left it there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 How interesting, we were just discussing fitting D2 front axle to D1 on LZ! And then I stumbled across your thread I notice you clearly have removed the D2 mounts and welded on D1 type, at risk of a stupid question was this completely necessary?? For instance, is the bolt spacing hugely out or are the mounts not wide enough etc? Or is it the chassis/radius arm width/position that is the problem? I've recently had broken swivel ball trouble and we were just discussing upgrading to the stronger axle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingy Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 Sam, tbh, i did these over 2 years ago. At the time i thought it was a good idea. It may go belly up on me, but i can only have a go. It might go down the road like an asda shopping trolley, it may work well. But looking back through the photos, the Disco 2 front hockey sticks are a lot wider than the defender ones i have on. The ones on the old defender are the 48mm thick ones. In order to try and replicate the brackets on the Disco2 axles, i used exactly the same size as the brackets on the old axles. I did masses of measuring and levelling, tacking and eye balling before i was happy with them. The Disco 2 have a lot thicker arm than the ones i used and i had to cut all the old bracketry off to put the new ones on. Original Brackets on Disco2 axle Brackets fitted for Defender fitting Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Lovely, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingy Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 The front winch bumper as supplied by Northoffroad. Yes i could have made one of these. I have the tools in the garage to do this. My local fab shop wuold have supplied all the plate, but i thought time is better spent on other things. Steering Original steering box out of the old 90 with drop link arm removed Totally refurbed using genuine seals, new discovery drop arm. Nearly threw the towel in putting this back together. If it lasts 3 months use its a bonus. As it was freezing in the workshop, the paint dried all dull. New steering links and panhard HD Sumo bars from Gwyn Lewis with fully greasable track rod ends. Difference in thickness between old and new Fully Fitted. Whilst fitting the steering box, i came across this problem. It's where the steering box mount/panhard rod mount meet. Should there be a bush in here? I have searched all over, but not found a part number or any reference to one. Seems too big a hole just to leave as is. Hmmm. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 That hole is normal actually, should be a large thick washer which covers it up in use. Looking good otherwise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomark10 Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 How long are you looking at until you can test the axles out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingy Posted February 16, 2013 Author Share Posted February 16, 2013 That hole is normal actually, should be a large thick washer which covers it up in use.Looking good otherwise Cheers. Thanks for that. How long are you looking at until you can test the axles out? No idea of timescale yet. Work, money, and doing this single handed. Should be within the next 12 months, But i said that 2 years ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 ****ttttt I don't know how you have the patience!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingy Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 Sam, its a challenge and a labour of love. I really enjoy and look forward to doing the build. What pees me off is not ordering the parts in time and/or not having them turn up. Bulkhead. The original one on the old girl was well past reviving. I found this locally and was cheap as the PO dropped a gearbox on it whilst trying renevate it. So first off i did the usual repair panel. Followed by both footwells. Half rubbed down to bare metal. Very tedious job! Etch primed. Joints sealed with silkaflex. Stone chipped Primrerd (no pic) Painted Range Rover Rimini Red. Hmm. I have never done any spraying before, one of my mates, who works for a Insurence approved bodyshop, gave me a list of jobs to do. He said he would be more than happy to do the work, but as it was my project i wanted to try my hand at it. However, what the loon never told me was not to mix one pack primer with two pack paint. After i had etch primed the bulkhead, i used 1pack high build primer. Left it for a couple of weeks, then under his supervision at his home made spray booth, i sprayed the 2pack colour and hardner. The 2pack colour ate into the 1pack primer and softened it. But the top coat dried hard and left the primer still soft underneath. At that point in time it was nearly midnight, he couldnt understand what was happening and would ask his gaffer the next day. After meeting him again the next evening he confirmed that the primer wouldnt cure now that the topcoat was fully dried. He did say though that i was lucky, only doing the one panel and not the full landrover. Anyhow it all had to come back off again, back to bare metal. Next time just to use 1 type of paint and primer. But i needed this to start setting the cage and evrything up. This will have to wait for another day. As it worked out later, it didnt turn out that bad to do with the primer still soft. I amnaged to scrape most of the paint off during a weekend. More on this later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingy Posted February 21, 2013 Author Share Posted February 21, 2013 Roll Cage Fitted the bulkhead, windscreen frame, truckcab roof rear bulkhead and some old doors borrowed of a mate. Full Northoffroad cage and extereme wing kit. I used Niges thread as best i could to set the wings up. trayback on back order as is the rear winch mount , so i cant fully finish and will have to leave until a bit later on. panels removed, cage fully welded up. Painted with red hammerite (so its easier to touch up and add things later on) New Modular wheels with 35x10.5x16 Fedima tyres. Bodywork panels were removed, rubbed back to bare metal, etch primed. This time i used 2pack primer and 2pack paint. Trayback and rear winch mount still yet to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrovermanuk Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Hi, nice work.... Just going back to the axles. I want to up grade to D2 axles on my 90. Most people appear to change the mounts on the chassis and keep the D2 arms. Did you consider that and dismiss it, or just find it easier to change the axle fittings? Thanks and good luck with the rest of the build... John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomark10 Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Well, The D2 arms are of a better design, similar to the rose joint after market arms you can get for the D1 ect, but they still both suffer from restriction on the axle end which isnt easy to overcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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