Reiny Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 I am in the process of changing the timing belt on my 300tdi. I have followed instructions to the letter but no matter what I do, the timing is still half a tooth out on the crank. I fired it up and it ran pretty nicely (although it did crank over a tad more than usual to start up). My good mate Gremlin told me to take it out for a spin and if all's ok I'm to leave it the way it is. It now lies in a state of semi-disassembly. I need to put the timing case on, replace water pump, fill coolant and that should be it but I'm absolutely famished so I stopped for a quick bite to eat. Any tips before I continue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Have you undone the 3 bolts in the centre of the injector pump when setting the timing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davyd8899 Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 have a look on my post on another thread, thats how i did my timing, half a mo and ill ell you what thread it is..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davyd8899 Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=81490 check my post on that thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big ives Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Hi Mate just done my belt mid week 1) lock fuel injection pump (correct tool or 9.5mm drill bit, it should be locked at about 11 oclock position) 2) set the cam wheel to the markings on the casing 3) turn the crank until the key way is at the 12 oclock position, the check under the bell housing wading plug and MAKE SURE the correct mark on the fly wheel is visable AND if you can or have the locking tool for the fly wheel use it with the fuel injection pump locked and pin in SLACK the 3 nuts on the timing (this will allow a bit of movement on the cog for fitting the belt) now when fitting the belt MAKE sure there is NO slack at the fixed tensioner and work the belt onto all the pullies adjust the moveable tensioner and the tighten the 3 bolts on the FIP, remove all pins for locking, turn crank 2 times and check all markings i hope this helps..........................Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davyd8899 Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 you can use 9.5 drill bit for pump antd there is a mark on crank pulley and case (12 oclock )when fitted ,and engine turned over twice marks rechecked and tension redone ,fit progressively smaller drill bits in pump slot and with 3 securing bolts slackened turn pump nut 22m clockwise against drill bit then retighten 3 bolts run engine ,keep going using smaller bits ie 9.5 -9-8.5 -8 etc till engine starts to get diesel knock then go back one thicker drill bit till knock has gone ,pump timing just before knock is optimum timing point and doesnt allways coincide with std pin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reiny Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 Thanks for your input. I have left it the way it is and it's running wonderfully. I only drove it a few hundred metres up and down the road but all seems to be ok. I let the engine run for about half an hour until I cleared up. I have just fired it up after 5 hours and it started straight away, so fingers crossed that all is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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