Hybrid_From_Hell Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Might make a small difference Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Haha oh well, knew I'd done the tw right! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Hmmm, took me about 3 seconds to realise the leads were wrong, even from memory! Starting then dying is probably ASE or WUE settings wrong, just hold it on throttle until it is warm and it should idle then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 To be honest I seemed to keep it going a little by pumping the throttle, but it revs straight up to about 1200 rpm on its own? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 To be honest I seemed to keep it going a little by pumping the throttle, but it revs straight up to about 1200 rpm on its own? Ignore that, high revs will just be the idle air valve or bypass screw needing adjusting. The important thing is it starts & runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardm6994 Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 If this helps... And... Sorry to hi-jac this, but I've got a stupid question which I'm hoping somene can answer. Does it matter which side of the coil pack you pick as being "a" or "b" / "c" or "d"? Am i correct in thinking that it is the edis unit which decides which side of the pack becomes a,b,c or d so as long as side "a" you connect to cylinders 1&6 and "b" goes to 8&5 all is okay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Does it matter which side of the coil pack you pick as being "a" or "b" / "c" or "d"? Am i correct in thinking that it is the edis unit which decides which side of the pack becomes a,b,c or d so as long as side "a" you connect to cylinders 1&6 and "b" goes to 8&5 all is okay? No, you can wire it up any way. EDIS will pulse its coil wires in A,D,C,D order (full explanation of EDIS system here), it's then down to you which coil you chose to be A,B,etc. and which HT leads you connect to that coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardm6994 Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Cheers....I wired up the megajolt on the ford pinto engine that I had in the car before this conversion but I'm starting to get a bit worried about wiring the coils for the V8 to get the right firing order! So basicall at the moment I have 2 coil packs that arn't wired up. Am I correct in saying that I take the "coil-A" feed from the EDIS, pick whichever coil and then I need to make sure the HT leads go to cylinders 6&1 from this coil. I then take "coil-B" from the edis to the coil and make sure these HT leads go to cylinders 8&5.. Repeat this for coil C & D (again I can pick either side of the coil pack to represent C or D) Then this will give me the correct firing order? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 Ok had another hour or so tonight until it started raining It's running on its own, although its hunting quite bad. Couple of things I noticed on the gauges were the two green boxes flashing intermittently one was boost/output1 I think the other was fidle I think. Also the lambda seems to be showing odd readouts, one timeit showed 28 next time it showed no input. So I'm thinking probably a wiring issue there, ill check on that, also got a few exhaust leaks as you can probably hear in the video. Which won't be doing the lambda readout any good! http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f257/little_landy/803B4C69-3B25-4961-A0FF-D5222BD62767-19096-00001CEBC76B49B7.mp4 Thanks again for everyone's help especially Zim who offered to come round and help out. Much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 That Hunting I would suggest look for an air leak ? Good to hear its now running, leads off on all 8 can impact the smoothness of the starting Congrats Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 Ill try the brake cleaner around it and see. First I need to sort the starter as it sometimes grinds on the flywheel, any opinions on where toget one from or get mine recon'd?, earths and exhaust leaks need sorting too, getting there though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Re starter avoid prestolitr ones -junk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 Re starter avoid prestolitr ones -junk Yep been there done that with those last about 6 months! Before it literally disintegrated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Brake cleaner is widely inflammable wd40 a lot safer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 The green boxes are the outputs, fidle is the fast-idle valve, one of the others will be the EDIS signal (probably), these are usually switching on & off so fast you can't see it properly on a screen. If you have a lambda problem &/or exhaust leak, don't bother trying to do closed-loop tuning. Turn off EGO correction for now, see if that helps the hunting. Next, get the idle adjusted / air leaks sorted, so it will start & idle with the correct timing etc. Once you're there, and have sorted the wiring/leaks/lambda etc., THEN you can go driving & tuning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted February 16, 2013 Author Share Posted February 16, 2013 Ok think I found the air leak, I'd fitted the rockers from my 3.5 and connected one of the breather tubes to the pipe in the plenum, pretty sure I'd looked there on diagrams and it was the 3.9 setup, but anyway, with that pipe on the plenum blocked off, it seems better, still not 100% but getting there! Lambda problem is still there, though intermittent, had it running and it was about 15 on then started it again now and it's 28! How well will I get it running just without driving? Will I get it acceptable or not? Problem being its not mot'd! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 Ok had another try today, including disconnecting the pwm and blanking the pipes off. But it still won't idle, holding the accelerator steady it goes from about 500 rpm up to 2k then back down. Interestingly I can hear a whooshing if I blip the throttle at the linkage, though I'm not sure if its just the air filter. Anyone any ideas where to go next? Tried the wd40 thing but didn't find anything, but now it's not idling on its own so can't even try that. Cheers mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Probably a stupid question, but is the MAP line connected at the ECU? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 Yep, although the first couple of times I'd forgot it :0 The only thing I can think of is to change the valley gasket but I'm sure that's not it, it's not leaking water anyhow. I am presuming that the map Nige gave me will actually have it running straight off at an acceptable level, without tuning? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Ignore AFR numbers, if you've got a narrow-band (normal) lambda sensor in there all you can say is it's rich or lean, or very rich or very lean. They are not like a normal gauge. As stated previously, they are also only reliable if everything else is right - no air leaks, misfires, exhaust leaks, etc. and the sensor is up to temperature and hasn't been coated with oil or unburnt fuel. Sounds like you have an air leak still, have you checked all the various hoses and holes and things on the engine? Did you do what some (myself included) have done and remove the plenum heater but not put the bolts back in the holes (they're not blind holes). And have you turned OFF EGO correction? If you have that turned ON and a dodgy Lambda signal then it will hunt when you rev it up past the EGO activation RPM: Set "Controller authority" to 0% to disable EGO correction. To get it running & driving you need to: - Confirm the timing is correct (what it says in the map is what it says on the timing light) - Get the base idle set so it's happy - Make sure the rest of the fuel map at least looks vaguely sensible relative to the base idle As long as you don't do hard acceleration / high RPM / heavy loads you can get away with quite a rough fuel map. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted February 18, 2013 Author Share Posted February 18, 2013 Cheers fridge. I took the plenum heater off but blanked off three of the four holes, the fourth was a blind hole. I havnt turned off ego yet as I hadn't figured out how to, now I know ill try it. Regarding the air leak, I'm gonna have to triple check but I'm sure everything's ok. But, I don't want to go and change the inlet manifold gasket and then find that's not the issue. I need it running by next week to mot it or I'm screwed as the tax runs out. Cheers for the help mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 Ok bit of an update, fitted a new valley gasket for piece of mind, plenum etc all sealed up, all pipes blanked off except map take off, servo pipe and pwm. And it still won't run right. Anything above about 2.5k rpm it seems to be ok I think but below that it won't hold a steady rpm. Tried the turning ego as above and still no change. Only thing I've yet to try that's been suggested is to try timing light on it and check timing with the ms, but struggling with that one as its such an arse to keep running! I've emailed Nige a datalog, although its only about 5 seconds long. Anyone any other ideas? I'm sure it something pretty simple, pretty sure it can't be an air leak now either. Cheers mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 Sorted this now I think, did two things not checked which was the issue, firstly I connected this pipe up... And secondly in the idle control settings I changed the algorithm from b&g to pwm, and changed the settings to those shown here... http://www.extraefi.co.uk/idlevalve.htm And now it idles, not too bad a little hunting now and then but least its going! Managed to get the timing light on it and it shows 10btdc or thereabouts which it says on the megatune. Had a problem of an airlock too, maybe I need the bleed pipe like the classics had, but think its cleared for now. Also had my first neighbour complaining! Apparently it's driving them crazy, it is a little loud though, think ill have to get a silencer made up as its only running the tiny td5 back box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 I don't think that hose is right TBH, it should have a T-piece in it which contains a restrictor, and connects to the rocker box to burn crank case gasses. If you look in RAVE you will see the layout, I spent ages getting this right as I had a P38 4.0 trumpet base with 3.9RRC plenum and rocker covers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 I don't think that hose is right TBH, it should have a T-piece in it which contains a restrictor, and connects to the rocker box to burn crank case gasses.If you look in RAVE you will see the layout, I spent ages getting this right as I had a P38 4.0 trumpet base with 3.9RRC plenum and rocker covers. Yep your right I'd seen the hose layout last night and thought I'd try it without the rocker pipe, because I havnt got the t piece and I'm using the 3.5 covers. I'm going to block it off again and see if it was that or the ms settings above which were at fault, but that'll have to wait while I get the welding done Cheers mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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