zim Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Mike,Yeah connect that pipe. You do you the ve analyze, accept the changes and then you have to save the file as a new msq. You have to then open this in mega tune or TS and burn to ecu. Can you please explain why to connect that pipe up ? If the thermostat has a little hole in it like most do then that'll bleed the air out. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 Ok nice, thanks for that, ill give it a go tomos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Zim- I have mine connected back to the rad for two reasons: 1) its easier to do than blanking them off (if you have a length of hose to hand). 2) I reckon anything that helps bleed air has to be a good thing. Having said that I've never had an air lock anyway.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 1) its easier to do than blanking them off (if you have a length of hose to hand). Hose + plug in the end.2) I reckon anything that helps bleed air has to be a good thing. Having said that I've never had an air lock anyway.. A thermostat with a hole in does the same job. I don't think we need a heated throttle body do we ? I've not run mine connected for years. Gordon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Mine doesn't heat the throttle body, that's disconnected. The manifold output runs straight back to the rad. I guess we'll have to agree to disagree! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 The pipe is higher than the stat hole by a fair bit, it's also as high as the temperature sensor so stops you getting an air bubble round the sensor. I connected mine teed into the rad top bleed pipe. Used to run with it plugged, but having had airlock problems (admittedly mostly attributable to non-gen stats) I decided I may as well connect it as every little helps. Mike - You load the log AND YOUR MSQ into MLVV (your posts weren't clear that you were doing this so I thought I'd mention it), then analyse, then save the MSQ as suggested with a new name (EG tag a "2" on the end or something), then you'll need to load it in MT and burn it to the ECU. I always find MLVV will knacker the idle zone so I end up resetting that to the old values & re-saving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 The pipe is higher than the stat hole by a fair bit, it's also as high as the temperature sensor so stops you getting an air bubble round the sensor. I connected mine teed into the rad top bleed pipe. Used to run with it plugged, but having had airlock problems (admittedly mostly attributable to non-gen stats) I decided I may as well connect it as every little helps.Mike - You load the log AND YOUR MSQ into MLVV (your posts weren't clear that you were doing this so I thought I'd mention it), then analyse, then save the MSQ as suggested with a new name (EG tag a "2" on the end or something), then you'll need to load it in MT and burn it to the ECU. I always find MLVV will knacker the idle zone so I end up resetting that to the old values & re-saving. No I probably havnt unless it does it automatically. I'm gonna connect the pipe up, got some fuel hose that'll probably do. Cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Can you confirm you've now got a working temp gauge and all that sort of thing? I've lost track of what's fixed and what's not... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 Haha no, I'm waiting on a new sender. But happy enough going by the megatune guage, shows about 79-81c generally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 PLEASE GOD...... NOT A intermotor one ?? FAE are best next to genuine - which are FAE ! nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 Ill have a look to see where I can specify an fae one. The lr part is prc2506 I think but not sure on an fae number ill have a google Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Erm...Nige sells em... Now after that blatant plug Nige, would you check yer bloody email.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 Erm...Nige sells em... Now after that blatant plug Nige, would you check yer bloody email.. Nige only sells the ms ones i think, I'm after one for the original guage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 Fae don't list a replacement for prc2506 in their catalogue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Gauges aren't really accurate enough to worry, if MegaTune is happy I'd live with it. Not that engine sensors are laser-accurate either... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Sorry, thought you meant a CTS Sensor !Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted March 16, 2013 Author Share Posted March 16, 2013 Ok got a new coolant sensor, it works a little better. Anyway got to playing with it again after not having time to touch it for two weeks. Had a couple of tuning runs, it seems to run fine once its going but I'm still having trouble with idle and pick up from idle, The idle jumps from about 600 to 800 and back again, pwm disconnected and pipes blanked off. The pick up from idle issue, if I'm under the bonnet and blip the throttle, there's a delay in it revving up. Is that where ae tuning comes in? Or could these be a symptom of the same problem? It was mentioned earlier in the thread about air leaks but I'm 99% sure there aren't any. On a different note how does the ms know the fuel pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 MS doesn't know the fuel pressure, the regulator regulates it and as long as it's reliable the MS doesn't need to know. Stumbling / hesitating when you push the pedal is AE tuning, it's a bit of a faff to get right. Try richening the idle zone (not just one bucket but all cells around idle by the same amount) so it's always rich at idle, that may perk it up although proper AE tuning is preferable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 MS doesn't know the fuel pressure, the regulator regulates it and as long as it's reliable the MS doesn't need to know.Stumbling / hesitating when you push the pedal is AE tuning, it's a bit of a faff to get right. Try richening the idle zone (not just one bucket but all cells around idle by the same amount) so it's always rich at idle, that may perk it up although proper AE tuning is preferable. That's what I thought about fuel pressure as there's no sensor, but there's a guage with values on it on megatune, so wondered if it calculated somehow. Is there a guide somewhere of how to properly ae tune? Cheers kike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 Get the rest of the table right first, then worry about AE, as otherwise you will chasing your tail, VE tune, AE, VE tune, AE, VE tune.... etc. Same is true for Warm up enrichment and after start enrichment, any changes here are worked as a percentage of the tune table, so change the VE table and it screws with the AE, WUE and ASE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 Just been having a play with the idle. Still with pwm disconnected, timing light shows about 10 degrees before on idle but its hunting from about 580-760rpm, now if I go to spark settings and enter -10 into the trim angle box it idles miles better fairly stable in comparison about 560-610rpm on the megatune guage, but now the timing light is showing it firing at about tdc ish. Just wondering if this could give a clue to the idling problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 What was the old trim value? What have you got in the other boxes? You should have -10 in the fixed angle box to make it run from the map: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 Everything is the same as that pic except cranking advance angle, mine is -10 And the trim angle, which was zero but I tried changing it to -10 Fixed angle is -10 too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 In your pic there it says adjust the trim so "timing light shows correct value from ignition advance table" So here's my table So which figure am I looking at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 Also in that pic it says no file loaded, what's that mean altogether? There's no msq on the ecu?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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