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So close but yet so far!


mikec

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Hose is defo wrong as bowie says

Hose(s) go

From Drivers side front (Flame trap) to T piece small to trumpet, and large to Plenum

The 2 Wire PWM Bosch Unit is powered close, so the settings are wrong

something like this

if not 25% then its not powered close

post-22-0-72545700-1361724424_thumb.jpg

ON PWM 1 change 70 to 60 and 78 to 72 as well while your at it !

post-22-0-57222800-1361724444_thumb.jpg

Nige

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This is just about breaking me!

Had three days off work to try and get it running, but I'm still having issues. It seems to run ok, idles a bit lumpy but ill live with that but after ten minutes of idling the car temp guage is going into the red, ms shows 171 degrees or so. Not sure wether its a fuel/timing issue or what, rads getting hot so I think the airlock issue isn't the problem.

Bought tunerstudio, can't get that to connect to ecu, tried manually etc.

Can anyone point me to a simple (idiots guide!) to how to use autotune?

Cheers mike

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If megatune has been working lets stick with that for now and not introduce any other elements to the equation for the time being.

I wouldn't auto tune your idle - I set mine manually and let auto tune do the rest of the table. I just tweak the group of cells around idle up or down to the point that is peak rpm/lowest map. This means that my AFR is generally richer at idle than I would like, seems anywhere between 13.5 and 14 suits my 3.5 best.

I'm not sure how MS itself would cause the hot running unless running v lean or spark is very retarded.

Has to be an airlock or plumbing problem. Got anymore shots of your engine bay overall so peeps can check?

Don't give up - it'll be worth it in the end.

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Mike

I have said this before, your looking for hugely complex solutions to problems when they are simple

ie all 8 leads wired wrong = starting prob

PWM - you must have changed the settings as I never use the one yours was set up

Hunting issue etc etc - peeps said "Air leaks" inc me waaaay back

Its not overheating at 171F

You don't need TS, you need to reload probably the standard MSQ I gave you in case you have altered other settings, then Calibarte the TPS

Set the tickover with the PWM BLOCKED OFF, then set the tickover on the Spark Table, then check timing is spot on and trim if required, and also ensure you have the air pipes fitted properly betweenthe flame trap trumpet and plenum with the proper restrictor, and then and only then then go for a drive with Megatune and datalog it noting any issues etc before you go and if you wnat send me the XLS file and I'll do the changes for you and email it back

I can send you setailed instaructions as to how to change F to C on megatune, but it is deep in the software and is not a simple tweak

Nige

Nige

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Ok some pics of the engine bay

7E38045F-DFEF-429F-9786-A6105E61C6D4-237

10046610-F270-4FE6-B63E-ECFFDA62C2A6-237

E60611F2-7839-47E7-A830-6773EBB2B56A-237

171 f, but its slightly disconcerting when the dash temp guage is showing in the red! Was working fine before though its had a new sender.

The one problem I've found regarding the cooling is the top rad hose has a bend in it, which peaks higher than the rad, hopefully sorting that today.

Had to bodge the rocker breather for the time being too.

Nige not sure what happened with the original pwm settings, but I didn't change anything, at least not on purpose :)

Anyway, I've reloaded the file you sent me this morn and its how it should be so honestly don't know what happened there.

Set the tickover with the PWM BLOCKED OFF, then set the tickover on the Spark Table

This is where the problem starts, how exactly do you set it on the spark table? I know I'm probably being extremely thick about this :)

Thanks for the advice guys much appreciated

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MS can't fix mechanical or electrical problems - and from what I've read your vehicle has had quite a few, from crumbling earth straps to incomplete plumbing, to (by the sound of it) dodgy temperature sensors.

So, you need to get the car straight first, then get the basics set in MS (trim angle for ignition timing, which hopefully you know by now, and the rest as per Nige's defaults / advice), and THEN see what happens.

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Ok thanks to Gordon, for coming round for a second opinion, sorted the overheating I think, hopefully a dodgy viscous fan, sticks at 81c now.

Idling not too bad, but it has a bit of an issue on pick up from idle, I've done a bit of a vid and a data log, but just wondering what thoughts were on this...

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I think the initial problem was the overheating. We changed megatune to celcius so we could watch it (i don't know farenheit scale!), it was warming up and getting too warm ! i.e. 95 C idling and then switch it off.

Glad you've got that sorted now. Next on the list i think is a cowling of sorts to enclose the new fan you've put on. They make a big difference.

I'll be honest and say that the engine bay is nice and neat :) Wiring / plumbing looks ok. Definately no air locks in the system. Also didn't see any air leaks.

If the cooling is good and she's got an mot you're a few steps closer to having it running 100% :)

Gordon

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If you are happy using the software, try Tunerstudio, much superior to MT + MLV imho, yes it cost a few pounds, but you will save that time by being able to do real time tuning rather than faffing about saving logs, loading logs, analyse, and then re-upload new table etc.

Tunerstudio is written by the same guy that did MLV, so it is very good.

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^^

Except I think it would be a sound idea to actually look through the code outputs within a XLS datalog and make sure there is nothing

fundementally showing up as being wrong, , and everything that should be working is, and in the right ranges etc.

before Mike starts tuning and covers up a basic fault(s) etc further. TS woun't sort out build errors :D

Nige

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Well I'd like to be able to use both anyway, plus ts wouldn't pick up the ms the other day, wouldn't manually connect either.

Ok so if I do a drive of 20 minutes? And data log it will that be enough or does it need a longer/shorter run?

Cheers mike

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