Turbocharger Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 After suffering poor starting and finding the injector pump was running retarded, I tweaked the timing but it seemed odd that it had slipped. Sure enough, the movement was due to wear on the inside of the crank timing pulley - witness marks and lots of rusty powder suggest the crank bolt wasn't quite tight. Luckily the pulley is much softer than the key so the crank is hopefully undamaged; I'll replace the key of course - if I can get the blighter out! Obviously I've hit it on each end, tried to pry it up, doused it in penetrating oil and even used some choice words, but it's still stubbornly attached. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 I wonder if tightening a g-clamp down on one end of the key might start it moving? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 if it's not worn, and stuck in tight why not just leave it there? just an idea, if it ain't broke? Otherwise a dremel disc along the key to split it down the middle and give some free space (it should be a half moon anyway) then chisel out. it's probably rusted in well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoltan Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Weld something onto it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Use a cold chisel, sharpen only one face rather than both, apply WD40 or a penetrating oil to the key, keep the flat face of the chisel flat against the crank and press the blade up against the woodruff key and several sharp hits will do the trick. Getting enough room to "swing" your hammer will be the trick but I've removed enough woodruff keys in the way to know it will work. Stage two, if it is still solid, pin punch the dead centre of the key, drill into the key with a drill size approx 1/2 the width of the key, - take care NOT to drill into the crankshaft, use a stop on the drill if you need to, again apply WD40, with a "blind" tap, tap into the hole and screw into your tapped hole a HT bolt and this will "lift" the key out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 I was going to suggest the cold chiesel route too....just one sided though, like a wood chiesel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 whats worrying is the key is usually the week spot and should break. In theory no damage should be present on the pully or crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Heat has never failed for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Cold chisel and a big hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 Thanks guys - six(!) hours of battering it including my neighbour aiming a punch while I hit it with some conviction eventually budged it. Running much better now the pump and cam aren't 11 degrees retarded. I'm looking forward to seeing the mpg come up from 20mpg! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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