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1st stumbling block, stuck at boot menu?


lansalot

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OK, so having that firework lit under my arse, I decided to power-up the MS1 today to see if I could get it to chat to PC again (had laptop upgrade some time back, never got the USB/232 dongle to work, threw it all in cupboard etc). This time, it's a PC with proper RS232.

Once I'd established that my transformer was screwed, I dragged in an old motorbike battery and hooked MS1 to that. RS232 to the server, PuTTY to COM1 and it was sitting there at a "Boot>" prompt.

Did an X and it appeared to carry on booting. Then did an "S" and "T" command was showing full connection with 029y3 for S and 029y4 for T. Bid odd, but result ?

Started megatune, connection succeeded. Blew down the MAP hose - dial fluctuated on screen. Result !

Configured my wee bluetooth RS232 adapter and connected it to server, set 9600-N-8-1 and paired it with my Nexus 7. Seems OK.

Plugged the bluetooth adapter into the MS1 and asked MSDroid to read it - said it had paired with BT but was having problems querying the MS1. OK, back onto full RS232 on the server. MS1 sitting at "Boot>" again. Did an X, and got

Boot>? (P)rogram (W)ipe (U)pgrade e(X)it
Boot>X - Reset Vector Invalid
Boot>
Uh oh.... powered the MS1 off and back on. Same thing. Whipped the lid off, to check for Boot jumper - none in place.
Thought "maybe firmware got corrupted somehow? Will reprogram it" so ran the download-firmware.bat file.
COM1, picked "not original megasquirt" as it's MSnS extra (from Phil at extraefi), and got this..
.
src\download.exe -c1 msns-extra.s19
MS Download 1.10
! - whaDownload failed:
Expected response "Boot>",
but received this " ! - wh".
Press any key to continue . . .
C:\PROGRA~1\MEGASQ~1\029y4>
Any clues as to what's gone wrong here? It was all fine a minute ago, and now it's not going past the boot prompt... Been googling like mad, to no avail. Anyone?
Thanks
A
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OK, despite the download-firmware.bat not working, I decided to try it at the command-line running the download executable directly .

C:\PROGRA~1\MEGASQ~1\029y4>src\download.exe -c1 msns-extra.s19
MS Download 1.10
Boot>w Complete
Boot>u - waiting ...
Sending file 1 of 1 - msns-extra.s19
File sent, 1762 lines, 27832 bytes.
Complete
Boot>
Boot>©MS1/Ex
Signature: tra format 029y3 *********
Controller battery voltage: 0.00
It appears that you still have the bootload jumper installed.
If this is not the case, and you have removed the jumper, then
something is wrong and your download probably failed.
If MS doesn't reboot, type "download -help" and check out the -v switch.
Odd that it mentions that boot jumper, but regardless I fired up putty again and gave it an S and then a T.
MS1/Extra format 029y3 *********MS1/Extra rev 029y4 ************
And I'm back where I started - but not quite. Megatune, went to reflash my MSQ and it says "Controller voltage too low for reliable FLASH burning". The battery is showing 13.21 volts on my multimeter.. What went wrong - and how come the two versions are different? And what's with the voltage error, given my multimeter's reading? The battery won't start the motorbike, but it should be fine for this and it was charged up nicely too.
Cheers
edit: and after a power-cycle, it's back to the "Boot>" menu. Argh!!
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Thanks. It didn't used to be this way when I had it going before.. does this voltage-drop thing sound likely? I can't flash the MSQ in Megatune because of that dodgy warning coming up... oh, and just got it working over bluetooth to my Nexus 7. Gonna post a wee guide, once I've checked to see if anyone else has already done it..

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Actually, something is pretty amiss.. Checked underside, and...

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/812/badbit.jpg/'>badbit.jpg

Zero volts to the boot jumper, should be 2 volts. Should be 12 volts apparently to the resistors, they're dead too. The bit that powers it up, and what I've been reading, are two different things by the look of it.

Box never been opened until this error tho.. :(

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Bought from ExtraEFI.co.uk. when I first got it, I had it powered up for testing and it seemed fine then. Its sat about a bit as I never got round to fitting it (always indoors, never been near the vehicle or any chances for mis-wiring). Only time I've taken it apart was to look for this boot block jumper.

I'm kinda stumped as to how its happened, theory was perhaps some award off the case - but not seeing anything amiss.

With my multimeter, I see the power comes in on pin 28 it would seem, then the rail breaks.. on the divorced side of that broken power rail, pins 1-2 and 7-19 are all grounded. So, that 12V coming in was going straight to ground in the board. Nothing looks untoward here to me, not seeing anything other than that broken rail, not keen on all the 12V going straight to ground of course, for the little I know about electronics I'm pretty sure that's not good!

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That's terrible.

The PCB hasn't been cleaned, never mind coated - the deposits of flux all over the place are probably what's causing your boot jumper to read 0v, but you've got bigger problems now! :angry2:

I'd take it up with extraEFI as something on the board has clearly caused a short circuit - a fuse on your battery would've saved you from toasting it.

Assuming you get no joy from extraEFI, send it to Nige, it may be repairable.

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Ah thanks guys, I've emailed Phil at ExtraEFI so I'll see what he says and take it from there. Much obliged!

(Typical... just as I was actually fired-up enough to start doing things with it... enthusiasm, waned! Still, the thought of tablet/bluetooth fun on the move should keep the inspiration up).

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Hmmm, I did electrical/electronic engineering at uni, and before that in college, I'd say that would look somewhat like my first attempts at soldering -when I was 12 and building Maplin kits!

I'd be talking to ExtraEFI and asking then to take a look at the above photos, see what they can do for you.

Then ask for a refund and get one of Nige's properly built and coated boards, had mine a few years now and no issues whatsoever (I think mine was Fridge's actually, before he stopped advertising personally)

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I like that the TIP125's are the only ones with metal screws and are the ones where metal screws are the worst idea... looks like they're the source of the short too, not very surprising.

I suspect this fault didn't show up with the mains adapter as they can't make enough amps to set fire to the trace, whereas a battery very much can!

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That track has melted quite well along it's entire length :-/ It looks like an easy repair though once the source of the short is located.

I'd say that uncleaned flux on the joints is making the soldering look worse than it is .... or at least I hope that's what it is as it would take extra effort to solder that badly consistently ;)

Hopefully ExtraEFI sort it out properly for you though, but worse case yours looks repairable.

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Spot on guys - I was in Maplins getting new fuses for the transformer and they are "time delay", which means the fuse on the device pops first, then the one on the transformer. Of course, no fuse on the MS so the transformer had actually gone pop, quite possibly months and years back - when I was trying it out with my MS1. The mists of time, eh...

So, bought some new fuses, and also an inline fuse holder for the MS. In the future, I won't be trusting it to "ah, I'm not wired up to anything incorrectly, it can't be that bad".

Will check out the metal screws around TIP125 later and see if that's what's causing it. I'd be right in that the other side of that power rail shouldn't be going direct to ground, yeah? As above, pins 1-2 and 7-19 on the DB37 all hit ground...

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The tab of the TIPs is internally connected to one of the legs, hence why they have to have the mica insulator underneath them & the plastic bushing on the screw... bizarrely the standard issue screws are metal, I always swap 'em out for nylon ones.

Edit: You can remove the TIPs and a few other bits if you're running Rover V8 hotwire injectors & EDIS:

v3components_minimal.png

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It will indeed be hotwire and EDIS, but I'm too scared to take anything off :P


Will be picking at things with my continuity tester tonight in the hope I can find out where the short is - but in all honesty, I'm likely going to have to get someone smarter than me involved. Time to dust off the wallet I reckon, but let's see what Phil @ ExtraEFI says first...

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