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Hydraulic tank advice


mikec

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Ok so I've decided I'm going to have to make a hydraulic tank instead of using the lr one I got. So what do you thinking need, my log splitter tank had in, out and a filler/breather. Now this is gonna be in the back of the car (well inside the ifor back), so not sure about the breather don't want any nasty wiffs (the dog smells bad enough :0) plus the lr tank doesn't have a breather, so do I need one? Other than that I'm thinking an in and an out with a suction filter on the out. Any better ideas? Oh was going to have about 40l full capacity so perhaps about 25/30l in it. Is that too muc? When I built the log splitter I was told to have double the lpm in oil? But that never gets warm so I think that ratio may be for larger systems.

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Breather must have been inb the filler cap? You have to have one. It can be a pipe to outside.

Volume of oil is tricky as in theory you only need enough for the rams change of volume. But you can use the tank volume to extend the time between oil changes and to soak up heat.

10 litre and an oil cooler might be better? It depends on your needs? The cooler doesn't have to be full-flow.

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Mike, you don't gain / loose any volume with a winch motor, not like a cylinder that requires oil to fill it.

My tank is about 15 litres and never had a problem. When challenging we use our winches all day long.

Make sure your return is into the bottom of the tank, not top.

G

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I'm listening in on this topic too. I have recently built, well nearly finished a log splitter :) I've only run it from a tractor so far, but I have a LR hyd PTO awaiting rebuild and installation.

Sounds like your tank is going in the load area. I am planning to build one to go under the wheel arch ahead of the rear wheel in my Ninety. Keen to see pictures of your old tank though.

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I'm listening in on this topic too. I have recently built, well nearly finished a log splitter :) I've only run it from a tractor so far, but I have a LR hyd PTO awaiting rebuild and installation.

Sounds like your tank is going in the load area. I am planning to build one to go under the wheel arch ahead of the rear wheel in my Ninety. Keen to see pictures of your old tank though.

Yeah think some of the earlier hydro systems had a small tank behind the wheel under the arch, I'm a little unsure though why these lr systems have such big tanks? I was on the phone today to rotec, should of asked them but never thought of it.

Anyway here's the tank, ignore the bit that's been cut out that was too try to get it in the car, but I've changed something since and it won't fit again now, its blooming heavy tank, and very well made with various steel pipes inside to get the oil to the bottom of the tank etc.

D28DA735-ADBC-47D5-95F7-4BC256CF1F79-982

B79F1CD9-4F15-4AEA-9F3E-D11D897996FB-982

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Longer one on the top looks like the filler/breater port. The filler/breather cap looks to connect by a rubber hose, which isn't unusual for back in the day. You often get a UCC reciver with bulkhead flange and an internal removable gause. (bit like a fuel filler)

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I have a behind the wheel tank (old superwinch as supplied with the fairey 525's).

The pipe connection with the 6 nuts around it is the pickup on mine and has a gauze filter behind it. The connection next to it looks like the filler connection on mine, the filler cap has a dip stick and a built in breather on mine. The return pipe on mine goes into a larger filter housing that sits into the tank and holds a canister filter, inside the tank is a baffle that seperates the returned oil from the oil pickup with a small hole at the bottom of the baffle to allow the oils to mix as the returned oil cools.

If you don't have a breather you won't be able to use it with a log splitter or any form of ram, also even on a winch as the oil heats up you may end up with leaks in the low pressure side as the system pressure may force oil past jubilee clips.

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You may need to think a bit more about filtration, particularly if you are going to have the hydraulic implements connected by quick-fit connecters since these are a sure-fire way of introducing dirt into the system. The 'filter' on the suction side should only be a strainer since it's only there to prevent large lumps entering the pump, and if it gets significantly blocked then you will get cavitation in the pump.

In my system (which also uses a tank behind the seat bulkhead) I put a spin-on filter in the return line to the tank as well as a strainer on the outlet to the pump. I also put a 2 micron full pressure filter on the high pressure side but that's because I'm playing with proportional directional solenoid valves which really do not like dirt, and if you are just using manual directional valves you won't need high pressure filtration.

The main reason for having a large volume is to dissipate heat - not only does the sheer volume of oil give you some thermal mass, but the larger tank is also a better heatsink. I have got about 60l of oil in my system and managed to get it hot only when the bypass valve on the hydraulic generator I was powering was badly adjusted so I was stuffing about 30Hp into the system and only getting about 3Hp out. I've fitted ports for a cooler but have not had to use them (yet).

I've got loads of pictures of my system being made and installed and if anyone's interested I'll see if I can find time to upload some.

Nick.

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That pipe fitting could well be the filler/breather. I never saw the system fitted just got bought it removed so I'm not 100% sure it's complete.

The other end of the bolt on flange is some solid pipe that goes down then across from memory, which has a suction filter on the end. I also have a return spin on type filter to go on too.

I think this is a similar tank on eBay, though the pictures not the best, but I also got the electric back up pump too, not sure if it works, if ill fit or where it's supposed to go exactly, but presumably from the tank to the hp hose from the main pump?

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You don't realy want a filter on the tank outlet as it needs to be a serious filter to keep up with flow demands, a suction screen of about 250 microns and then as has been said a filter in the return to stop **** entering the system, about 10-15 microns is a general ag filter.

Remember to ensure you have more than enough flow to the pump as cavitation is killer.

Mount the tank on rubber to stop it rotting or vibing, a sight glass is handy as is mounting the filter right way up so when you change it it doesn't fill your load bay with oil.

Nick has covered most of that already mind.

Will.

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