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ibex 300 build


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There's a tube that starts at the pulley and exits the front dumb iron in a donut.

Getting the rope along there will need a mouse wire though.

Mike

Seems you're well organized so you've probably already considered this, but one huge disadvantage of running wire rope through tubes, rollers and so forth under a car is that no matter how well prepared you are, the rope always seem to break just as you are stuck waste deep in mud. And here comes the problem, it is virtually impossible to change the rope in such a situation hence you are in a very desperate situation needing outside assistance. Now I don't know your plans for this nice Ibex, so you might never really be in such a situation, but if you have the slightest risk of stranding somewhere remote because of this I would highly recommend a slightly overkill steel wire rope just to make sure it holds up.

Just a word of advice after seeing people being in really deep trouble with these sort of setups.

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Whilst I take on board your comments I won't use anything other than rope (plasma etc). Plus the beauty with the ibex is I can use the winch out the back in a conventional manner. All be it slightly more difficult re-thread the winch due to it being under the rear seat but there is no tube between the winch and rear cross member only a stiff mouse will be required which I plan to carry one.

Mike

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TSD doesn't seem to have any real problems with and he washes his trucks nearly as often as I do. He dose invariably have to power out but it's not that bad. As for pressure washing the tolerance is quite tight so you shouldn't need to but you would have to remove the rope and I figure washing the rope will be enough.

Mike

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After a good muddy dunking, if I run out a cars length of plasma and wash it before spooling back in, I never have issues with the rope sticking. If I get some good wet Salisbury clay and forget to clean it out, the solution is to put a rope round the plasma end onto a sturdy tree and reverse away. It can need a surprising amount of force, but its never been more than an inconvenience... if its really stuck, just winch out backwards, that's what its for!

I've had a few problems with the rear snatch block seizing up, then failing under load. Its right behind the rear axle and exposed to road spray all the time. Its probably only happened 3 times in 10 years and 200k+, and of course there's always a spare snatch block in the winching kit for use at the front, so no biggie.

oh, and the fish tape for feeding the plasma up the tube is the spare nylon airline for the breathers and arbs, so no extra tool needed there either.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Not much progress recently but I have started wiring it up got both wing looms in this has allowed me to sort the fresh air run for the heater and the airbox is now mounted.

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Next up is start engine and bulkhead wiring.

Mike

Edited by miketomcat
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  • 1 month later...

I've made an mdf mould then I layed up some fibreglass door cards.

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Plus some covers for the catches.

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Then at the weekend I was able to permanently fit the tunnel and floor panels.

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This means I've been able to bolt all the seats in. I had to make an aluminium spreader plate for the out board side as one bolt landed in the floor panel which isn't very thick. The inside bolts through my tunnel which I added additional layers to because I knew the seats would sit there.

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Mike

Edited by miketomcat
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The carbon fibre floor is 2mm thick which is why i've added some Ali plates ( I'll take a pic tonight) that spread the load to the floor supports. The tunnel is about 5mm fibreglass which has a 75mm x 6mm Ali disc on the underside in way of the bolts.

Mike

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IMAG1865.JPG.4e7f839d12c88e387ecdb8e8fb0e3ab0.JPG

The outer bolts one through the seat runner and one just through the Ali bolt down through the galv outer rail of the floor supports. This because the forward runner bolt would of been just through the carbon without the Ali.

Mike

Edited by miketomcat
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I have no real idea but if I remember correctly they are similar to the land rover equivalent. But bear in mind they don't need a roll cage due to their construction, one winch does the job of two and have built in rock sliders.

Mike

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I'm back on wiring again. The disco loom I'm using is from a 200tdi as such it has the God awful fuseable links. So I've purchased an MGF (the same as 300tdi disco and others) under bonnet fuse box this allows me to ditch the links and have proper fuses. I've sited it next to the pedal box because there was space and it's easy to get to.

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I've put a relay box there as well for rad fan, DRL's and spares for later.

Mike

Edited by miketomcat
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I'm planning a wiring job on '95 Disco V8i based Sahara that has fusable links. I've little expererince with these. What are the issues?

I thought/hoped they got rid of them in 94 when they went 300tdi but I guess v8 maybe different. Knowing you have them is one up on how most people find them there covering holds water so they corrode and part company leaving you with nothing. You can't replace them easily, you can't shorten them and the only reference to location iirc is a random paragraph in the manual because they look like part of the loom. It takes a bit of head scratching to work out which wire does what and what fuse to use. I'll post up what I have done and what fuse I used though I'm a little way off finding out if I got it right.

Mike

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We may be talking about different things here. I've heard the big fuses (100A, 60A etc) in the engine bay fuse box being referred to as fusable links.

This image shows the fuse box I'm talking about. The six big fuses are the fuseable links and the others to the right are standard blade type fuses.

https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRajPNVsLZXzzTh-W869raEPMFSczcJ9qxITfV_3k9_y3UcH7nXZw

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Those are fuses sometimes referred to as fuseable links due to there size. The links I refer to are lengths of special wire designed to burn out in the event of overload they are different lengths for different loads. The box I've fitted replaces those wires.

Mike

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  • 3 months later...

Well done nothing on this lately however it's being relocated for a while so it's out of the garage.

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While it's out it's rude not to put the mach 5's on.

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Then on to the trailer.

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Don't expect to get much done for a while now.

Mike

Edited by miketomcat
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