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ibex 300 build


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I think you'll find using Toyota props, which have UJs about 1.5 times the size of LR items won't cause you any problems, in conjunction with the Toyota 1HD-T engine, box and transfer it will be virtually bullet proof, especially pulling a much lighter Ibex, rather than the 80 Series.

Stuff the axles under it as well and you have a very solid drivetrain, diff-locked from the off, Ackerman won't be far off as they are 112" as stock.

Sticking with LR stuff means you will always have the weak link of the gearboxes, axles and props, expensive diff locks (if you wanted them that is).

Kind of my ideal drivetrain TBH, except I'd have the 1UZ-FE with a supercharger instead if it wasn't a daily driver :)

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Matt a 300tdi in my opinion is no better than a 200tdi in some respects I think it's worse.

Mike

True - I guess I was pointing out that 200 Tdis are getting hard to source, but complete scrap discoverys with 300s in can be picked up on Ebay for not much. This could be the quickest/cheapest option for you. If you can live with the 300 foibles, that is...

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  • 1 month later...

Finally I've managed some forward progress the 110 has gone so I've ordered some additional bits from foers. I folded a roof panel up by hand and have fitted it.

IMAG0500.jpg.67ab3b87ad0535b1ec28eaf14fd1d050.jpg
 

The seat box has been removed from the front as I'm using freelander seats and need a different floor shape this has been canabilised and relocated for the second row seats. The floors are carbon fibre sheet with the new seat box mounted on top due to the use of freelander seats the seat mounts are also seatbelt mounts so these are quite substantial. The seat folds forward then forward again to give access to the winch and the batterys will be under here to.

 

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I'm now making a start on alterations to the rear tub as I'm converting from crew cab to a station wagon.

Mike

Edited by miketomcat
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Great to see progress Mike.

Is the main structure different for the station wagon? or is the rear roof/body an extra bolt-on unit?

I'm building it from scratch using the original rear tub as a base. I'm changing the front end of the tub to become integral to the body the producing a new frame to hang a roof and side panels to.

Mike

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Mike,

Good to see another Ibex being built - whats your chassis number?

Just trying to get enough time to get mine finished - got round to writing down the to finish list and its not as scary as I thought. Hopefully might see mine running this year, work permiting! Interesting to watch your build develop.

Good luck - the first 6 years are the worst :wacko: .

Rob

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Hi Mike,

I think the following should take you to the thread I started, if not search for Foers Ibex 7F 00094

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=79318&hl=#

Like you seem to run out of time.

Looks like you're making good progress, thought I'd get mine on the road in a couple of years but six years and 2 daughters have made that slip. Final push to get mine on the road, I've been running a 4.4 Rangy for the last 3 years while waiting for the Ibex and its now costing me a small fortune.

Think I've got most issues sorted just need a little time to get them installed. I've got lots of photos of the build a lot of which are related to refurbishing Land Rovers. Let me know if you've got any problems you want to know what I did about.

94 is a 250S which I've fitted my old Landies 200Tdi into mated to an R380 with short bell housing. In terms of sorting problems I think my main problems have been around sorting the air intakes both for the heater and the engine given the 200 would have taken air from the n/s along with the heater in its original form but I've now got engine intake on the o/s ready for a snorkel after IVA. Heater is on n/s now supplied using a 4" bilge blower.

Also done lots on the electrics and mated a Td5 with a 300 loom just about at the point where I put power on and see what blows!

Regards

Rob

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  • 1 month later...

Some progress the wife has decided to go to the gym in the evenings so the condition was take the baby monitor into the garage! The rear frame is all done along with the tank guard so these and some other bits have been galvanized. I've also decided to alter the fuel tank from foers whilst it doesn't sit any lower than a land rover tank the chassis is higher at the back so I'm having a slice taken out of it in line from tyre to cross member. Tonight I've started to skin the rear frame in aluminum so combination of 800mm eBay folder and a hammer I'm quite happy with the results.

IMAG0820.jpg.ca73415bc50d347f9241f20b8fa70670.jpg

IMAG0821.jpg.0a73486b30ed013eeb971d5898b80bf1.jpg

Mike

Edited by miketomcat
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  • 2 weeks later...

Did I ever tell that I envy people with real metal working skills :blush:

This is seriously smart and very, very nicely done!!!

I am actually not sure if I like it anymore though, I mean, it is going to be a bit, well, perfect, but I suppose you could always engineer in some leaky sun roofs and maybe even get a flashy cowling and scoop going on to get the semi authentic reproduction of Land Rover hurricanes at anything over 40mph :rofl::rofl::rofl:

Well done, love this build, can't wait for the interior though ;)

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Mike, Super.

Gotta ask, how did you make the gutter on the new roof?

The side panel comes up and folded over the frame. Then I riveted an unequal Ali angle on top this forms the base and outer upright of the gutter.then the folded corner sections have a return folded out at the bottom edge this is then riveted through the now formed gutter so you end up with a double layer in the bottom of the gutter which has a rivet every 100mm. If I could weld Ali I wouldn't of used rivets but these won't be seen unless your taller than simon r this is a similar method to the original gutter anyway hope that makes sense.

Mike

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The side panel comes up and folded over the frame. Then I riveted an unequal Ali angle on top this forms the base and outer upright of the gutter.then the folded corner sections have a return folded out at the bottom edge this is then riveted through the now formed gutter so you end up with a double layer in the bottom of the gutter which has a rivet every 100mm. If I could weld Ali I wouldn't of used rivets but these won't be seen unless your taller than simon r this is a similar method to the original gutter anyway hope that makes sense.

Mike

What a brilliant idea.

I wish I'd thought of that....

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A little more progress got the rear door skinned hinges mounted and door hung.

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Also got the fuel tank positioned along with the tank guard (a heavily modified 110 guard). It didn't quite end up where I was hoping so I'm going to have to make some spacers up.

IMAG0878.jpg.b011fe5164ad367a4c17a35a0a53db29.jpg

Mike

Edited by miketomcat
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