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Any restriction causes a pressure drop across it doesn’t it? I think that’s what the filter comparison says. 

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Yes, but the pressure switch is *before* the cooler.

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Are we sure the switch is before the cooler as that would explain a lot.

On another note I've established that I can do 350 miles on a tank full. But that was full to run out. It took 65 ltr to refill but the seal on the sender/pick up is weeping. The guage seems to be relatively accurate the light came on solid at 300 miles.

Mike

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Sounds good with the warning light, my Mini light comes on with 50miles left. 

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Oil and filter change this morning. I've fitted a genuine filter though looking inside they certainly look similar. I also took the opportunity to re visit the oil cooler ports.

20180916_092743.thumb.jpg.30698bd783f1d1ac10041e2482104904.jpginlet and output were like this it measures 5.5mm the tube from the filter housing is 9.5mm id.

20180916_100608.thumb.jpg.cc266561dbf614f3b1bea02cd5a4a85f.jpg

Some very carefully drilling later, that looks a bit better. Hopefully this will solve the problem of low oil pressure at tick over after a run.

Mike

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Interesting. How do you deal with swarf when doing that,  jam a vacuum cleaner pipe next to the drill? Also how do the oil pipes locate there, I can’t see any thread?

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36 minutes ago, Peaklander said:

Interesting. How do you deal with swarf when doing that,  jam a vacuum cleaner pipe next to the drill? Also how do the oil pipes locate there, I can’t see any thread?

I've found if you use a thick cutting compound like Rocol and have a decent drill (Presta / Dorma and it's sharp) you can get most of it stuck to the cutting grease if you take it slow.

You've got to be careful not to snap the bits, or if you've got a torquey drill like my Milwaukee, your wrist :blink:.

I don't think the photo shows it well but I think it's an external thread, you can just make out one or two threads possibly.

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The thread is on the outside. The pipe has a swage on it with an o-ring between it and the spigot on the rad. The nut pulls up on the back side of the swage. 

Swarf was felt with by having the radiator leaning back towards the drill taking it nice and slow so it cuts nice curly swarf that you can just pull out then clean anything else out when done. The core in there was close to where I was drilling (you can see a little damage in the second pic) so there was next to no room for swarf to drop inwards.

Mike

Edited by miketomcat

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I should have looked more closely at your radiator but it sounds like the connections are just the same as on my 300.

Ok on the swarm comments too! It all helps. Thanks

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