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Any restriction causes a pressure drop across it doesn’t it? I think that’s what the filter comparison says. 

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Yes, but the pressure switch is *before* the cooler.

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Are we sure the switch is before the cooler as that would explain a lot.

On another note I've established that I can do 350 miles on a tank full. But that was full to run out. It took 65 ltr to refill but the seal on the sender/pick up is weeping. The guage seems to be relatively accurate the light came on solid at 300 miles.

Mike

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Oil and filter change this morning. I've fitted a genuine filter though looking inside they certainly look similar. I also took the opportunity to re visit the oil cooler ports.

20180916_092743.thumb.jpg.30698bd783f1d1ac10041e2482104904.jpginlet and output were like this it measures 5.5mm the tube from the filter housing is 9.5mm id.

20180916_100608.thumb.jpg.cc266561dbf614f3b1bea02cd5a4a85f.jpg

Some very carefully drilling later, that looks a bit better. Hopefully this will solve the problem of low oil pressure at tick over after a run.

Mike

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Interesting. How do you deal with swarf when doing that,  jam a vacuum cleaner pipe next to the drill? Also how do the oil pipes locate there, I can’t see any thread?

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36 minutes ago, Peaklander said:

Interesting. How do you deal with swarf when doing that,  jam a vacuum cleaner pipe next to the drill? Also how do the oil pipes locate there, I can’t see any thread?

I've found if you use a thick cutting compound like Rocol and have a decent drill (Presta / Dorma and it's sharp) you can get most of it stuck to the cutting grease if you take it slow.

You've got to be careful not to snap the bits, or if you've got a torquey drill like my Milwaukee, your wrist :blink:.

I don't think the photo shows it well but I think it's an external thread, you can just make out one or two threads possibly.

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The thread is on the outside. The pipe has a swage on it with an o-ring between it and the spigot on the rad. The nut pulls up on the back side of the swage. 

Swarf was felt with by having the radiator leaning back towards the drill taking it nice and slow so it cuts nice curly swarf that you can just pull out then clean anything else out when done. The core in there was close to where I was drilling (you can see a little damage in the second pic) so there was next to no room for swarf to drop inwards.

Mike

Edited by miketomcat

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I should have looked more closely at your radiator but it sounds like the connections are just the same as on my 300.

Ok on the swarm comments too! It all helps. Thanks

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Well I've had two good motorway runs today. No flickering oil pressure light. Sopping wet foot but the lights out. So now I need to investigate the leak that drips on the throttle pedal.

Mike

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I wanted to but it a long way north and can't justify the expense at the moment unfortunately. :banned:

Mike

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Glad you got to the bottom of the flickering light, could have been one you ended up chasing around for ages if you hadn't remembered about the smaller holes.

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Winch is now wired up.

20180929_103721.thumb.jpg.64cf024bcd9f9ae338d2c677a1682708.jpg

Second battery fitted and split charge wired unfortunately it seems my vsr has gone belly up.

20180929_103708.thumb.jpg.9050a3023ab6a7dcba7893524fc21727.jpg

Mike

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So the Ibex Vector winch is under the 2nd row?
Feeds out the back then around a roller and back to the front?

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Yes, normally it has a snatch block in the rear crossmember held in with a removable pin.1998win02.JPG.8197ac1ed6cee7faad4a5f3fb25fa578.JPG Mine has a fixed pulley in the Crossmember, mainly due to my tank guard and removable tow bar.20180708_175612.thumb.jpg.4c0e7f04e42c47f652482a9225a1f708.jpg  Then round a pulley in the chassis leg and down a tube to the front.IMAG0878.jpg.3ddd74b1be600b7feedc57fdfb303be8.jpg

Mike

 

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Cheers Mike, 

I always wondered how the Ibex Vector winching system was packaged as its something I wanted to implement on my 90 rebuild.
Its the same set up as my Scammell Explorer to be honest and very similar to the Nokken winch on the 101FC.

If you want to winch from the rear I guess you will just pick the rope off the rear pulley and hook a snatch block on?

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6 hours ago, NRS91 said:

If you want to winch from the rear I guess you will just pick the rope off the rear pulley and hook a snatch block on?

Yes exactly that. I didn't like the idea of a snatch block in the rear 1, because it has no bearings the pulleys I have fitted do. 2, I was always going to be running plasma which tends to be loser when stowed thus allowing the snatch to rattle and 3, the standard set up only has rollers on each side of the hole in the rear crossmember which means any up or down angle and the plasma will run over a sharp edge.

Mike

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so the silver block that holds your pulley also has a sort of hawse fairlead?
Any link to the rear pulley?

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The pulley is mounted in the crossmember with an Ali cheek to keep the rope on the pulley. The Ali Hawse is bolted over the hole to close it down to rope size. 20170714_155237.thumb.jpg.4c90914b24f8f544a2a937ef811a678c.jpgpicture is looking backwards over the fuel tank. I can't remember where I got the pulleys from.

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Ok Mike, thanks for the extra detail!
I love this build!

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Today I've established that the freespool engages and disengages a lot better if the gear carrier is in the right way round. Just got to put it back in now.

Mike

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Well Done !!

Looking very nice

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I always reckon towing is the acid test, nice trailer there.

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