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ibex 300 build


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I've been thinking long and hard about the gearing issue and I think I've come to the conclusion that I have two choices. One, change the diff ratio this would solve hi and low gearing allow me to keep the 35's. But wouldn't solve any rubbing and is expensive/Not a 5 minute job. Or. Two, change the tyres to 33's, this fixes gearing, solves rubbing and can be done quickly. Final bonus is the 35's can be sold to help pay for the 33's unless I can find someone to do a swap with. The only down sides are doesn't look as good and a little clearance loss.

I'm leaning towards the latter.

I've also re-sealed the roof so just have the gutters to re-seal.

Mike

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I have a dodgy back so as per usual it went at the most in opportune moment. However it did highlight an issue that I'd forgotten about. When I went to fit the seatbelts they fowled the seats so the quick fix was to limit the seat travel. This did make it a little snug for my 6'3" frame but it was liveable until my back went. To get it to clear I either need to move the reel or the seat. Due to seatbelt mounts moving them is a pain. So the seat it is, it need to move inboard 25mm any more would make the steering wheel and peddles to offset so up 19mm would see the seat back adjuster just slip over the top of the reel. The seat is mounted on an Ali plate on the door side and the tunnel in board. Tunnel side is easy a strip of nylon to lift it and re drill the tunnel 25mm in board. Door side is more tricky the Ali plate is bolted to the floor frame so I would need to re make this but it's Christmas and Ali plate is going to be a problem. So I've used a piece of 25mm nylon rebated over the original Ali plate to give me the 19mm and still spread the load into the Ali plate whilst picking up on the original bolt holes and adding two new ones for the new position.

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So now the seat goes back a further 50mm and is less cramped both on the pedals/steering wheel and the door.

Mike

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  • 2 weeks later...
23 minutes ago, Arjan said:

Nice !

No problems with the winchrope for the licence plate ?

Not yet but i am half expecting to get a comment. However they are generally more concerned with the rear one over here. 

I did discovery I have a problem with the split charge dropping in and out while winching. Due to using a vsr to switch a solenoid I'm going to fit a switch to bypass the vsr while winching.

Mike

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When I first looked at 2Bex, years before I bought it, the radius arm to chassis brackets had been cut off, ready to be replaced with D2 parts. The original owner wanted  the Watts linkage on the rear axle to improve the handling, and I think was going to go the whole hog with air suspension.

Maybe not the worst idea in the world. I've seen a 110 overlander with D2 axles and suspension, and that seemed to work really well in Morocco, but I didn't fancy the possible complication of going to IVA with suspension from a lighter vehicle.

Second owner had sourced and fitted replacement standard brackets from Foers. Much more attractive proposition from my point of view.

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On 1/7/2019 at 10:48 PM, miketomcat said:

Do it, David will do different donors with in reason.

Mike

I wonder what we could do with a P38 donor... (I'll get my coat on the way out)

Seriously, very impressed with Mike's Ibex!

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2 hours ago, Escape said:

I wonder what we could do with a P38 donor... (I'll get my coat on the way out)

Seriously, very impressed with Mike's Ibex!

Having seen where you guys get a relatively standard p38.........

The f7 ibex chassis could be adapted easily.

 

ibex_009.jpg.b58991b261a2ee83a0f60251b645ec1d.jpg

The f8 is more traditional land rover esk chassis with a space frame on top.

Mike

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D2 /P£* are dirty cheap.

My only issue is the dash / ac as the F8 requires a Puma dash and there more than a brace of D2's !!! Also the traction / abs is a good to have. I'd want the D2 dash and controls as well as as much parts from the donor as poss.

Thinking around a king cab (larger king than currently offered with an extended wheel base 104 -110 and a pick up bed.

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My wiring, binical and switch gear are all d1. My dash is my own fibreglass unit (I made my own mould for it).

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David foers is happy to do custom in as much as I don't think any two ibex are the same. There is a Ford based ibex so anything is possible.

Mike

Edited by miketomcat
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Base it on a landruiser 100 series? I never understood why the Ibex was based on landrover parts; since you build a car from the ground up, there are so many options of parts donors to choose from. Now with the defender becoming collectible, and no more being made, it looks like a no brainer to me for Foers to present different options.

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Untill my 110 got nicked i was gonna keep it for the kids  / family car once it had paid for itself.

I'm consdiering the D2 donor and an ibex for the same reasons. The platform lends itself well to electrification once the diesels are banned. 

i'd love a d3 based F8 as they ride real nice and are great off road aswell. 

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20 minutes ago, wanger said:

 The platform lends itself well to electrification once the diesels are banned.

TBH I think most LR's lend themselves to electrification - strong chassis, lots of space, easy "in" to mount a motor directly to a prop or transfer case.

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