miketomcat Posted August 28, 2021 Author Share Posted August 28, 2021 Well it's in and working. I need to make the freespool accessable, it needs a lever and push rod arrangement. Certainly with the X9 there is a destinct difference between winch in and out, it looks like the brake drags a little winching out. This isn't a problem if you freespool but that's always been tricky on the ibex. I'm fairly certain the ep9 was the wrong way round meaning the brake was dragging while winching in, thus the winch was down on pulling power. The only reason it lasted as long as it did is because I used to winch out instead of freespool and most my winching is on flat ground so didn't notice the brake failing. Mike 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 On 8/28/2021 at 6:34 AM, miketomcat said: Well it's in and working. I need to make the freespool accessable, it needs a lever and push rod arrangement. Certainly with the X9 there is a destinct difference between winch in and out, it looks like the brake drags a little winching out. This isn't a problem if you freespool but that's always been tricky on the ibex. I'm fairly certain the ep9 was the wrong way round meaning the brake was dragging while winching in, thus the winch was down on pulling power. The only reason it lasted as long as it did is because I used to winch out instead of freespool and most my winching is on flat ground so didn't notice the brake failing. Mike Mike, it will always drag on winch out, as it uses a one way bearing. The manufacturer states no more than 20seconds of winch out, without a break. I tend to use rope protector on the first wrap of the drum. I have set up a bowden cable, previously, on a rear mounted X9 (belonging to a customer) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted August 31, 2021 Author Share Posted August 31, 2021 This certainly makes sense and I'm happy with the way it is now, just need to sort the freespool (a Bowden cable is on the cards). As for the ep9 the brake was playing up so I guess that's what killed it. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 30 minutes ago, miketomcat said: This certainly makes sense and I'm happy with the way it is now, just need to sort the freespool (a Bowden cable is on the cards). As for the ep9 the brake was playing up so I guess that's what killed it. Mike If I come accross an EP9 that's being broken, I'll let you know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post miketomcat Posted September 4, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 4, 2021 I had a little spare time this week, so I thought it about time I sorted the freespool be for I kill another brake. I had a freespool arrangement on the ep9 but it didn't work very well. Some research on here I came across a comment by Simon r with regards to how little the pin moves. This called for a re-think, my solution was to use the existing arm as a lever. First a push rod to attach to the freespool arm. It's in two pieces because the ep9 push rod I had wasn't long enough (I didn't have any more rod) and I may change to a Bowden cable later. I had to cut a hole in the seatbox lid to gain clearance but that doubles as access to the freespool lever if I have trouble with the push rod. Just need to test is now. Mike 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 Mike, that is proper tidy. Really nice I also noticed you'd made up an end plate. None of those nasty cross head screws. Nice touch. The free spool is meant to have an an Allen bolt - stainless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted September 10, 2021 Author Share Posted September 10, 2021 I'm sure I can find an Allen bolt at somepoint. The end plate is bolted which means I'll have to take the end off to remove it but I plan to fit a grease nipple in the plate at some stage. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 8 minutes ago, miketomcat said: I'm sure I can find an Allen bolt at somepoint. The end plate is bolted which means I'll have to take the end off to remove it but I plan to fit a grease nipple in the plate at some stage. Mike What size stainless Allen bolt do you need I have a selection could post you one down regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted September 10, 2021 Author Share Posted September 10, 2021 17 minutes ago, Stellaghost said: What size stainless Allen bolt do you need I have a selection could post you one down regards Stephen Thank you for the offer, I should have one at home failing that I can acquire one from work. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post miketomcat Posted October 22, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 22, 2021 Mot this morning......passed, "it's got an oil leak near the oil filter, but it's is a land rover!" Mike 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 Corrosion inhibitor device. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted October 22, 2021 Author Share Posted October 22, 2021 27 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Corrosion inhibitor device. What's this corrosion thing, Ibex don't do rust. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted November 6, 2021 Author Share Posted November 6, 2021 Synchromesh on third has been shot for a while, so I finally admitted defeat and pulled the gearbox out today. I've got a spare donated by TSD however as I discovered after I'd got mine out the spare is the V8 version. DOH. Fortunately I have another spare stashed in a garage..... Que a trip to said garage to dig it out. Replacement gearbox and original transfer box are now back under the car ready to go back in tomorrow. Now ever since I built the car I've had a rattle seemingly suspension related. I've checked everything to no avail. Whilst taking the gearbox out I noticed a witness mark on the cross member from the gearbox and the mount near it is bent. I've relieved the cross member and added a web to the mount. Mike 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Ooo - hope that fixes your rattle 🤞🏻 I hate rattles ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 @miketomcat don't forget there's another LT77 with your name on it in the lab and I'm fairly sure that's a TDI one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted November 8, 2021 Author Share Posted November 8, 2021 Well gearbox is in no major hassle and the cross member mods look to of improved things. We'll see if it solves my rattle when I get to do a longer run. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 On 11/8/2021 at 7:37 PM, miketomcat said: Well gearbox is in no major hassle and the cross member mods look to of improved things. We'll see if it solves my rattle when I get to do a longer run. Mike I Have a coupleof spare LT77#s if you are caught short. I also have an autobox for a 200tdi and all the associated fittings. Box needs a service and a new sump seal - just in case Meant to say, I've found a couple of X9 plastic end plates - if you want one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 29 minutes ago, Nonimouse said: I Have a coupleof spare LT77#s if you are caught short. I also have an autobox for a 200tdi and all the associated fittings. Box needs a service and a new sump seal - just in case Meant to say, I've found a couple of X9 plastic end plates - if you want one Thanks, I'm ok for a gearbox for now just will grab one as a spare at some point. The plate I made for the X9 is fine so no worries. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted February 2, 2022 Author Share Posted February 2, 2022 Deep joy I've now got an oil pressure issue. Over the last week or so when good and hot the oil pressure light flickers at tick over. This now seems to do it after a run in traffic. I should have a spare switch so I'll try that to start with. I'm also going to replace the radiator as it created the same issue when I built it this was due to restricted oil ports. On another note the winch line has jammed in the tube so need to look at that to. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 The oil light can flicker if the idle is low and that can be related to cam belt lifespan . Do you have a gauge you can hook up temporarily to see what's going on ? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted February 2, 2022 Author Share Posted February 2, 2022 It's just odd that it's started when the weather's colder. I should have a gauge somewhere but it'll be in storage. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 I wouldn't worry too much if the light only flickers at on hot idle. There aren't too many 200tdis that can be considered in the first flush of youth. With no gauge on hand, I'd do an oil and filter change to check for diesel, or unexpected bits of piston... Winch line jammed in the tube is normal for Ibex, it means you didn't spool it out and clean it after the last use. My neighbours used to think it a bit odd when I put a tree strop round a lamp post and then reversed away from it. If you've been playing in the chalk on the Plain, I wouldn't risk a lamp post, find a big tree 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted February 2, 2022 Author Share Posted February 2, 2022 (edited) Just done an oil and filter change it made no difference and I didn't see anything amiss. The engine is under 170k so whilst not young it's not rocket ship either. I'll try the obvious easy fixes if none work it'll be a case of run it till something gives. I have another engine though that's had different issues in the past but I know what that was know. The rope jamming was a little odd to I'd just finish using it for a recovery then couldn't free spool it back out for the next one. Tried a tree and nearly pulled it down, especially when it started juddering. Once I managed to get it out I rinsed it off in the lake and winched it back in, still jammed. I thought the chassis pulley had seized but that's fine. It seems to be jammed towards the back of the tube because there is give at the front. Whilst it's not a clean as it could be I wondered if there's a build up of fibres that have got hot enough to melt into a block. My plan is to take the hook off and winch it out of the tube. Then I can run a drain cleaner up it to see if I can clear it. Mike Edited February 2, 2022 by miketomcat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 200 oil light flickering at idle is often cam bearings slipped slightly if I remember correctly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted February 3, 2022 Author Share Posted February 3, 2022 I'm well aware of that just can't remember if that's a written off block. I know it's not a DIY job. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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