Dan110 Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 Hi there, Just wondered if anyone can recommend a good place to get my Salisbury Diff looked at in Kent/West Kent? I've tried the search but nothing turned up. No particular problem with it, it's just not as young as it once was and I wanted to give it the once over to make it more of a known quantity. I'm told Salisbury's are near-impossible to work on at home? Cheers Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 Did you know Ford called the Salisbury the Bullit axle. Supposed to be bullit proof.... As for getting one serviced I have no idea. The only people that I know of that have been taught are the MOD fitters. I keep saying, I've done three, two on a Ford course and one in a workshop. I promised myself I would never do another. They are doable at home. All you need is the workshop manual for one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan110 Posted April 19, 2013 Author Share Posted April 19, 2013 Okay thanks for that. I thought you needed some kind of tool to stretch the casing open? It's on a 1986 ex MOD 110, no problems noticed aside from a little 'slop' in the drivetrain generally.....What's the consensus - if it ain't broke.....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 Yes you do need a spreader tool. I'm sure you could make two up. Have you looked at the halfshaft to flange to see if there's any slop there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan110 Posted April 19, 2013 Author Share Posted April 19, 2013 No, i'm pretty much a plucky amateur so not approaching the job with much in the way of relevant knowledge! I'll look into that first though if you think that's a likely culprit. Thanks again for the comments...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 Fresh oil, pull the shafts, change the drive flanges (they really get a beating) and call it done. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan110 Posted April 19, 2013 Author Share Posted April 19, 2013 Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 Parts of this manual should give you some insight http://www.winget.co.uk/document/SERVICE%20%20MANUAL%20SALISBURY%205HA%20AXLES.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 Before condeming the diff on grounds of slack in the drive train, make sure its not the rest of the drive train - disconnect the rear prop and check the diff inout flange by hand. A 1986 110 should have an LT77 gearbox and LT230 transfer box, and I would say a solid input gear between LT77 and LT230. Lots of drive train slack will appear here, when the splines on the LT77 mainshaft wear out due to lack of lubrication. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan110 Posted April 25, 2013 Author Share Posted April 25, 2013 Okay, thanks for that everyone - i'll get amongst it. Starting with the diff was just a 'working from the back to the front' plan based on very little knowledge - seemed logical! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 You don't even really need a diff spreader. While a spreader is nice a couple of tyre levers will get the centre out and careful persuasion gets it back in. That's all most of us use on this side of the world when fitting lockers. BTW, the Maxi Drive Sals 'spreader' was clever, rather than spreading the case across the journals it compressed the case vertically, springing the case horizontally. Nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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