bluespanner Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Bizzarely I have a 500300 one side and a 101111 on the other. It sits perfectly level and rides well, laden and unladen. Only problem I have is that the shocks seem a bit short and are easily topped out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Countering the roll with an ARB rather than hard-as-nails springs will give a better all-round ride and handling... Might be worth looking at fitting a rear ARB? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted April 25, 2013 Author Share Posted April 25, 2013 Countering the roll with an ARB rather than hard-as-nails springs will give a better all-round ride and handling...Might be worth looking at fitting a rear ARB? I've got one fitted already. The roll was only really when hitting a corner too fast - I was trying it out late last night - wouldn't drive it like that normally. I'm pretty happy with the result TBH. Its a bit harder than with the self leveller, but then again, its hard to remember what the self leveller suspension was like when it was new (24 years ago!) - plus it was mums car back then, so I never drove it (was before I passed my test too!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 Glad you got a satisfactory result in the end Reb Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Thread bump. Thanks to this thread and this one and some reading around, I got hold of some nicely priced, new, genuine RKB101111 springs for my 1996 110 SW with self-leveller. I have swapped the springs with no problems but had a tussle with the self-leveller. Those four bolts at the top were a bit painful to get out but the frustrating bit was releasing the lower ball at the A frame cup. I hadn't read about that challenge and when I pulled the bellows gaiter thing up I hardly noticed the nut at the bottom as it's soo thin (item 10 in the diagram). I don't have a 40mm open ender and all sorts of stillsons and things were offered to it but no 'purchase" was to be had. In the end I whacked it a bit with a little cold chisel and it started to move, eventually freeing off. The nice bit at the end was that the ball just lifted out and the Boge thing was off! So now I have the A frame joint with an open ball joint socket (item 8). I don't really have the time to replace that, so I wonder if others have just left it? I haven't driven yet but I can just clear the garage door so I'm up a little bit at the back, as expected. I'll drive tomorrow and so how it feels and looks. Thanks to @reb78 for this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Ran mine with the lower ball joint cup open for years, [as in 1st photo during my chassis change] only recently replaced the A frame ball joint & got one pre fitted to a non self leveller axle fitting, [2nd photo] 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Mine has been like that for years too, no problems 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 On 7/27/2017 at 8:50 PM, Peaklander said: Thread bump. Thanks to this thread and this one and some reading around, I got hold of some nicely priced, new, genuine RKB101111 springs for my 1996 110 SW with self-leveller. I have swapped the springs with no problems but had a tussle with the self-leveller. Those four bolts at the top were a bit painful to get out but the frustrating bit was releasing the lower ball at the A frame cup. I hadn't read about that challenge and when I pulled the bellows gaiter thing up I hardly noticed the nut at the bottom as it's soo thin (item 10 in the diagram). I don't have a 40mm open ender and all sorts of stillsons and things were offered to it but no 'purchase" was to be had. In the end I whacked it a bit with a little cold chisel and it started to move, eventually freeing off. The nice bit at the end was that the ball just lifted out and the Boge thing was off! So now I have the A frame joint with an open ball joint socket (item 8). I don't really have the time to replace that, so I wonder if others have just left it? I haven't driven yet but I can just clear the garage door so I'm up a little bit at the back, as expected. I'll drive tomorrow and so how it feels and looks. Thanks to @reb78 for this thread. Glad it was useful! My ball joint carrier is still the one for the Boge Strut (four years on since i started this thread!). I do need to replace the ball joint as it could easily be the original one at 28 years old! But I will just use that carrier. I still dont regret changing to these springs. I have even donated the two Boge Struts that I had to a member on here to see if they have any more luck reconditioning them and returning them to use than I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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