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DirtyNinety who's doing your element swap and how much? Any chance of borrowing your timing tool when your done please :) ?

Pump locking tool was bought off ebay Clicky linky

Does anyone know what needs to be done to the turbo or what actuator to buy?

I wasnt aware the turbo had to have anything extra added to it, just a case of tweaking like on a 200/300. More reading to be done!

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So if you had room to have a remote transfer box, what manual gearbox would be best to use if you wanted a good amount of power.

I DO have room for a remote transfer, just want my truck on the road ASAP so I can plan the next step.

Id look at running a BMW 530d gearbox with a cut and welded merc/bmw bellhousing or maybe find a big yanky slush box that can handle big power. TH400 etc etc

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I thought that standard turbo was just waste gated and not a vgt. I'll have a look at mine when I head up to the workshop later.

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IIRC the manual 530d box (e39) they limit the torque via the engine ecu , in the lower gears .

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£375 delivered!

Mine came yesterday

11115727_10152673291122085_1062279505804

Not terrible actually.

I assume the little boss bolts onto the crank/starter find and allows the V8 flex plate adapter etc to bolt on?

Is it being too cheeky to enquire as to the thickness of the adapter ring and the boss?

One assumes you'd bolt the torque converter to the flex plate through the starter hole?

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£375 delivered!

Mine came yesterday

11115727_10152673291122085_1062279505804

Veeeeery interesting price. Are you using a v8 or diesel autobox? What's it all getting shoehorned into?

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I might be wrong but my understanding is the turbo on the OM606 is vacuum actuated but it is controlled by the ECU so it needs to be changed for a pressure actuator.

I haven't looked into this much myself yet hence why I thought I'd ask on here.

Thanks for eBay link for the timing tool.

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yes regarding actuator and ideally a sump off a later 320 cdi + oil pump this will give clearance for the front axle / diff if your putting the engine roughly in the same place as original.



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What is it going in Chris? I can't remember!

going in my 110, posted in the members vehicles section.

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Veeeeery interesting price. Are you using a v8 or diesel autobox? What's it all getting shoehorned into?

I shall be using a V8 zf4hp22 autobox, these are more suited to the higher revving and torqueyer om606

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I shall be using a V8 zf4hp22 autobox, these are more suited to the higher revving and torqueyer om606

is this kit set up with the dowel pins in mind ?

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Epic thread,

So mutch information, Was nearly set on a M57 marine conversion, Untill now, I, Need a 606, Simple wiring as stated. Under water,mud, sand.etc.Them can-bus jiggers are to complicated. Now a question, 603 pump looks the goods for road use, My application would more suit a pump from stationary, industrial use. Any 603-606 in generator. Water pump, Industrial usage Known, Reckon 165np 300nm @ about 3000rpm would be awesome.

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Turbo is a strait wastegate turbo but control by vacumm by the ecu, removed the vacum cell and get a pull boost cell there instead, easy fix

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I have all tools needed for most mercedes, timing ccage, and the timing lights

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Not terrible actually.

I assume the little boss bolts onto the crank/starter find and allows the V8 flex plate adapter etc to bolt on?

Is it being too cheeky to enquire as to the thickness of the adapter ring and the boss?

One assumes you'd bolt the torque converter to the flex plate through the starter hole?

Hopefully these pictures shall help, You have to cut a chunk of belhousing out to be able to get in and do the torque converter bolts. Hopefully i'll make a better solution than this.

11178666_775262939256329_525925915_n.jpg

11198819_775263079256315_333286857_n.jpg

11194854_775263142589642_961847394_o.jpg

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Shame that couldn't have been incorporated into the adapter plate design.

Another question, how does it allow for setting the depth of the converter into the box, as just about every HP22 box code is different in this respect?

See near bottom of page here: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/automatic-gearboxes/zf4hp22.html

If you don't heed the depth, you end up smashing the oil pump in the box, and then wonder why you don't have any drive.

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Another question, how does it allow for setting the depth of the converter into the box, as just about every HP22 box code is different in this respect?

See near bottom of page here: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/automatic-gearboxes/zf4hp22.html

If you don't heed the depth, you end up smashing the oil pump in the box, and then wonder why you don't have any drive.

Just to point out, the pictures above are from GazFab, the chap who has made the adapter plate.

I have also been thinking about the TC depths. How do you set the depth on a RV8?

In the past ive always "felt" the TC onto the oil pump drive and never had a problem. When you offer up the autobox and engine, the TC must come forward slightly on the splines to bolt up to the flex plate(?)

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Yup, all correct, the distance is from the mounting surface of the bell housing to the torque converter bosses, and I have 'felt' the TC onto the oil pump too, although Ashcroft seemed to think it was impossible unless the box was stood on it's end!

You 'set' the depth using a spacer on the crankshaft, so my question was really as to how this was taken care of with the kit above.

Broadly though, if you push the converter fully home, measure the depth from bell housing face, and then measure the adapter plate to surface of flex plate when bolted in place, there should be a small gap, IIRC it was around 5mm on my stock RV8 set up.

I'm surprised that so much had to be cut out the bellhousing, to me you only need a small swing with a decent ratchet spanner, and you could maybe get away with just cutting out between the ribs? Making a cover panel then would be much easier.

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Perhaps the idea is that you don't make a cover panel? The part that you have removed can be put back in place and held in place by the normal mounting bolts at one end and the cover plate for the round hole at the other end? Not an idea I like but perhaps that is the intention?

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Yup, all correct, the distance is from the mounting surface of the bell housing to the torque converter bosses, and I have 'felt' the TC onto the oil pump too, although Ashcroft seemed to think it was impossible unless the box was stood on it's end!

You 'set' the depth using a spacer on the crankshaft, so my question was really as to how this was taken care of with the kit above. Surely you can use the same spacer, off the v8?

Broadly though, if you push the converter fully home, measure the depth from bell housing face, and then measure the adapter plate to surface of flex plate when bolted in place, there should be a small gap, IIRC it was around 5mm on my stock RV8 set up.

I'm surprised that so much had to be cut out the bellhousing, to me you only need a small swing with a decent ratchet spanner, and you could maybe get away with just cutting out between the ribs? Making a cover panel then would be much easier. I totally agree, and I shall be looking at a much neater smarter way of doing this. I don't want cr*p in my bell :ph34r:

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Yup, all correct, the distance is from the mounting surface of the bell housing to the torque converter bosses, and I have 'felt' the TC onto the oil pump too, although Ashcroft seemed to think it was impossible unless the box was stood on it's end!

You 'set' the depth using a spacer on the crankshaft, so my question was really as to how this was taken care of with the kit above. Surely you can use the same spacer, off the v8?

Broadly though, if you push the converter fully home, measure the depth from bell housing face, and then measure the adapter plate to surface of flex plate when bolted in place, there should be a small gap, IIRC it was around 5mm on my stock RV8 set up.

I'm surprised that so much had to be cut out the bellhousing, to me you only need a small swing with a decent ratchet spanner, and you could maybe get away with just cutting out between the ribs? Making a cover panel then would be much easier. I totally agree, and I shall be looking at a much neater smarter way of doing this. I don't want cr*p in my bell :ph34r:

End? or housing? :rofl:

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Don't suppose anyone has a good source for pumps or has one for sale?

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Don't suppose anyone has a good source for pumps or has one for sale?

Speaking to DieselMeken, they will supply rebuilt pumps outright, but obviously there is surcharge.

I've emailed a couple of breakers in the UK, and they were asking ~£300 mark if I remember correctly. Either way it works out cheaper to just pay the surcharge, especially once postage has been taken into account. Having said that, I've been looking out for a whole car to break for the pump too :). Scrapping the car then makes it pay for itself.

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