hector-boy Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Thanks for all the photos. Guess the alternator will need to be moved to miss the steering box. And a notch taken out of the front cross member. Do you think you would have got away without changing the sump if a two inch suspension lift was used. Great job. Hb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
braith Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 <p></p><p> </p><p>606 dipsticktube hole blanked off...loctited too I might add!</p><p> </p><p></p><p> </p><p>648 pickup, I had adapted the windage tray from the 606 to fit, but later removed it as so much would be removed to clear ribs in the 648 sump it would've been useless....this is somthing I'd spend some more time on possibly as it does breathe a bit, but having spoke to STD people they say 'they all do that sir' so am sucking it and seeing!</p><p> </p><p></p><p> </p><p>648 sump - from a W211 e320cdi - NOT s320cdi and w210 e320cdi (also om648, but still from well sump...) like I say, </p> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
braith Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Hector boy....so did you get a load of pics through??? odd as I thought I posted them as a general reply!!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
braith Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Can anyone confirm the pics are on? I can't see them.....just don't want to clog this thread with double posts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carloz Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 @ Hector boy: Somewhere in this tread you can read that it will clear the front axle with standard sump. That was for a 5 cylinder, no difference for a 6 pot I think... @ Defender: Tell me where those mountains of R380's are.. especially the V8 version! Diesel versions (300Tdi/TD5) are coming by now and then overhere (The Netherlands) but the V8's never. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Hi Braith, all approved now. Good to see a conversion in the flesh, and done to a very high standard. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
braith Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 sweet! thanks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hector-boy Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Braith. Only one picture came through. But when I clicked it, it open a link to photobucket and 50 odd photos opened up. There was a video too. Sounds very good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
braith Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 throttle and kickdown cable took a bit of working out....but not rocket science. Throttle in from the left pulling the kickdown on the right...cables are standard to make replacement easy if needed. Forgive the washer stack on the pump support bracket, but served a purpose for mock up! Happy coincidence saw the clevis pin diameter being the same as the riveted in ball on the merc pump. The bracket on the right manufactured and mounted to an existing water jacket bung that was drilled and tapped to suit after being moved from the back of the head. That position was where the water temp sender used to live.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 I decided against the Mercedes mounts due to the sheer bulk of them. I'm not worried about he vibrations on the 200tdi type mounts as a 6 pot is that much smoother than a 4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddychris300tdi Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Ooooow I do like the sound of that. Can't wait to hear it under load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
braith Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Would've given much more room to be fair! And the lr mounts probably move less....better for offroad probably... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
braith Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 If I did it again I'd manufacture an o/s engine bracket too then I could raise the chassis mount away from the diff more... And as for the x mem notch...it'd clear without just...but you need it to install the engine (box stayed in) and for clearance/fitting a belt. I know this is about the 606, but the 605 would give a useful increase in room for installation and still far exceed a lr engine, only trouble being everyone would assume you'd just fitted a td5... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Discovery Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 I would install a pulley next to the alternator,it will serve a dual purpose first you clear more space from coolant hose and second you will have more surface area in contact at your alternator pulley so you will not have slippage at a greater electrical load like winching lights etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Discovery Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 so...what else? err...mpg? early days yet as i've been towing and scaring old people and children....but driven 'normally' mid 20's, I imagine a manual or 722.6 with better lockup/bigger tc would get closer to 30 so more than double the old v8 and the same power/character problems? vacuum stop is proving a challenge....having tried three different 3port valves, they keep overheating on long trips and then creeping open = stopped engine. But then the beauty of it then is, just remove and bung the pipe and you're away. I'm going to plumb it the other way and provide a momentary stop button, maybe using a defunct dash button! I have the vac line inside with a clamp on it that I can loosen to stop the engine for now! I'm open and grateful for suggestions for a better solenoid! O/S engine mount a bit close to the diff....trimmable tho! Aux belt just a bit close to the top hose....it's a good 15mm off when not running, but occasionally catches (protective rubber for now) I'll look at adding an idler to move that top run down.... I'll bung a few more pics up....probably quicker than my ramblings! For Mpg is it a uk 4.4 litre a gallon ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
braith Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Re the idler, that's what I was thinking too....nearly did it from the off but got impatient! Iirc 1 uk gallon is 4.54 litres. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daslandroverman Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Assuming the vacuum stop requires a constant vacuum to allow the engine to run I'd suggest something like an LPG solenoid (for example ebay item #321448286723) wired through a 5 pin relay fed through a supply on stage 1 of the ignition switch with the trigger off the run/crank feed. Get the wiring right and it should leave the solenoid open with the key in position 1, and leave it closed when in the run crank position, and with the ignition off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
braith Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 So, Sorted the stop solenoid in the end.... The pump requires vacuum to stop it. So first iterations meant plumbing the pump to the normally open port, hence when energised closed off and the engine runs. The problem being that the vacuum is quite stong and the solenoid was overheating and being beaten, the vacuum leaking past and stalling the engine. So plumbed the pump the other way, to the normally closed port...could just fit a momentary push/flick switch like a sort of electrical pull stop...but i really wanted it off on the key. What I've done is to rewire the solenoid so that the live side is fed off position1 and the earth/negative via a 5 pin relay such that earth is fed to it when the relay is not energised and when the relay is energised from a position 2/run/ignition key position feed the earth is removed. This means starting is completely normal, and with just a brief pause at position 1 when switching off it's off, and when locked/key out nothing is powered up. Means that it defaults to start condition if solenoid fails....and the solenoid is only powered briefly so does not overheat/leak. The relay is powered all the time whilst running, but should it fail it's either disconnect one wire from the relay or unplug the solenoid. Only other thing I did was to fit a small section of 4mm nylon pipe in the pipe to the pump solenoid with a small 1mm bleed hole in it. This just allows the residual vacuum to dissipate so it starts properly next time. There's plenty of vac supply to overcome the small hole and stop the engine quickly. Only flaw being that if you switch off fast you can beat it and it stays running! Handy for defrosting I guess as you can take the key out, leave it running and lock it! hehe... And I guess if you sit in position 1 for ages the solenoid is powered up...but that's no bother ... Might be helpful??! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 https://m.facebook.com/groups/703875639700099?view=permalink&id=1000097480077912 Just gonna leave this here for FB users. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 https://m.facebook.com/groups/703875639700099?view=permalink&id=1000097480077912 Just gonna leave this here for FB users. Nice, but I don't like the sound of a quick spoil turbo, that'll just SPOIL it all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 Nice, but I don't like the sound of a quick spoil turbo, that'll just SPOIL it all! I am amazed at how poor spelling, grammar and punctuation is on there, but although I am not perfect, I am leaps and bounds above these boys ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daslandroverman Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 Shocking isn't it, and no grammar nazis to correct him. Thought for the day; The man who proof read Hitler's speeches really was a Grammar Nazi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 My gramma doesn't read these posts, she's too old ? Sorry. Mo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hector-boy Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Hi all. I am in the process of making new engine mounts for my om606 to fit my rrc chassis. The body is removed from the chassis and the wings are removed from the body. Now in my enthusiasm to separate body and chassis, I now find that I don't know what the max height i can place the engine in the chassis before it touches the underside of the bonnet in the closed position. The only measurement I need is the distance from the top of the damper to the underside of the bonnet where the engine will be positioned. If anyone here has that information I would be very grateful. Regards Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Paul, I'd ask the question is a separate thread in the Range Rover section as some kind soul will probably go out and measure it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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