gadget Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Planning on putting the bits in to the stub later if i get a chance. The stub seal has a metal ring on one side. Should this face the wheel or the axle? The needle bearing race has a flat edge and a curved edge. Should the flat edge face the wheel or the axle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 You've lost me with the curved/flat edges... With the hub sat with the wheel studs down, the bearing wants to go rollers down. So the race without the rollers goes into the hub first. Hope that makes sense, sorry if that's not what you're asking!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted April 25, 2013 Author Share Posted April 25, 2013 The hub is the job after this one It's the seal and needle bearing inside the stub axle that i'm needing the details on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Ohhhh Ignore what I wrote then!! I can't be much use as mine has the phosphor bronze bearings which along with the seal came prefitted to the new stubs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted April 25, 2013 Author Share Posted April 25, 2013 My shiny new stubs came bare. Bearings and seals were cheap enough though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted April 28, 2013 Author Share Posted April 28, 2013 Still looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 Have you got a photo gadget? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted April 28, 2013 Author Share Posted April 28, 2013 Have you got a photo gadget? These ok? Side of seal with metal insert Opposite side of seal Flat edge of bearing outer race Curved edge of bearing outer race Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 My personal guess would be that the rounded edge would help get the bearing in, but only a guess I'm afraid. Has the seal got a springy insert round it like a hub seal? I'd expect that to face the middle of the car if it has. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 My personal guess would be that the rounded edge would help get the bearing in, but only a guess I'm afraid. Has the seal got a springy insert round it like a hub seal? I'd expect that to face the middle of the car if it has. I think the seal lip and spring is underneath the metal ring, but can't say for certain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 It's a good idea to leave the seal out to allow lubrication of the shaft and drive flange splines - it makes them last many times longer than if the seal is included. Just make sure you fit the plastic cover on the outside of the flange with a bead of RTV sealant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 It's a good idea to leave the seal out to allow lubrication of the shaft and drive flange splines - it makes them last many times longer than if the seal is included. Just make sure you fit the plastic cover on the outside of the flange with a bead of RTV sealant. Doesn't an end cap full of grease do the job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 it helps, but some EP90 will travel along the driveshaft too the bearings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 it helps, but some EP90 will travel along the driveshaft too the bearings But if i run ep90 in the swivel the needles will be in that, so i only need to worry about the drive member and splines? (There are far too many options!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 EP 90 in the swivels will lubricate the bearing in the neck of the swivel, but not the stub axle if the seal is fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted April 30, 2013 Author Share Posted April 30, 2013 I think we might be talking about different things? The needle bearing in the stub is on the swivel side of the seal in the stub. If ep90 washes the CV it will wash the needle bearing too as it's next to it. The stub seal is outboard of the needle bearing. Are we talking about the same thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 I'm recommending omitting the seal in order to lubricate the drive flange and half shaft splines, not the bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 I'm recommending omitting the seal in order to lubricate the drive flange and half shaft splines, not the bearing. Thanks for clarifying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 IMHO I'd go for fitting the seals so as to exclude the risk of axle-oil from entering the swivels: it'll only dilute the one-shot semi-fluid grease from the CV joints (and then leak out the swivel-seals). If you're worried about the drive-flange/CV-joint output-shaft splines, pop the plastic end-cap off every year, throw it away, and put a good shot of motorcycle-chain spray-grease in a new cap before refitting. That's what our fleetmaster has the workshop do, as 'annual maintenance' and we've never had a front drive-flange/spline failure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 IMHO I'd go for fitting the seals so as to exclude the risk of axle-oil from entering the swivels: it'll only dilute the one-shot semi-fluid grease from the CV joints (and then leak out the swivel-seals).If you're worried about the drive-flange/CV-joint output-shaft splines, pop the plastic end-cap off every year, throw it away, and put a good shot of motorcycle-chain spray-grease in a new cap before refitting. That's what our fleetmaster has the workshop do, as 'annual maintenance' and we've never had a front drive-flange/spline failure. I think you're meaning the seal in the back of the swivel ball, we are meaning the seal in the stub axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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