How to replace the lock barrel on a Defender fuel cap – pre TD5.

[simonb]

How to replace the lock barrel on a Defender fuel cap – pre TD5.

Remove filler cap and turn over, remove 2 screws and plate

Remove lock bar – may be a circular spring beneath this – remove that as well. Big rubber washer around casting should lift off. Remove big spring washer.

You should now have this. With the L on the casting towards you, look underneath at the key slot – the “scallop” next to the slot should be on your left. If it is proceed onwards. If its not lock barrel is in “other way round” and you will need to drill casting opposite to what I describe next. Remove 2 screws from casting plate and it will come away from the plastic outer housing.

Place casting in vice, as shown, L on plate needs to be facing up in vice - or down if scallop wasn't on left.

Centre punch casting 5mm from indent as shown. Drill 2mm hole, - see also next picture, there are 2 “walls” to drill through. Do this slowly, it should be obvious when the drill touches the barrel assembly. You can put key back in and peer down the drilled hole and rotate the barrel – you can see when you are through. When all the way through, re-drill out hole to 2.5mm.

When through, insert key back in, you should only need to rotate the barrel around 10-20 degrees and you will see a dark spot line up with the hole. That is the release plunger.

Insert 2mm drill through hole and press in plunger, the back cap should then fall off (onto the floor!)

You should be left with this:

Using a small screwdriver press plunger on end of barrel in and using key withdraw barrel.

Hey presto.

Assembly is the reverse procedure. Once you have the barrel back in, the cap which drives the lock bar should just press in. Put a dab of sealant over the holes you have drilled to maintain the venting of the cap.

If you find when its all back together, the key doesn’t turn, you have fitted the lock bar on the wrong way round, just fit it from the other side.

Mods - one for the tech archive I think!

[=jon=]

You sir, are an absolute legend - I was trying to work out how to do exactly this a few weeks ago!

[CwazyWabbit]

Interesting, the one I took apart was totally different (pictures in this post http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76901&p=657900 )

Mine came from a breakers along with an old metal 90 tank so I believe it to be an early cap, maybe mine was an aftermarket one.

[western]

Mr B your a top man, now linked to the Tech Archive.

[j1mb0]

Can anything be done for td5 110 fuel caps? Be so much easier to have one key.

[simonb]

Well folks, you can see my cap is dated 1999. I got it when I last changed the locks shortly after I got my vehicle. I got the genuine parts kit which came with the barrels and matching fuel cap.

Almost 15 years on, my drivers door lock has worn out. Nobody on Eblag seems to do a cap and barrel kit and I didn't want 3 keys including the ignition.

Another supplier on the interweb does a kit which replaces the steering column lock, so doors and ignition will then match, but that's around £40 and I would still have to have a different key for fuel.

3 suppliers on Eblag show caps with barrels not fitted, but 2 actually say they now come fitted and are not removable and a 3rd isn't sure and they are sold out anyway.

Fortunately I had an old gash cap from a "project" that I've yet to start, which the barrel had been drilled out of, so I could measure where the plunger hole was. I also had a spare new barrel - don't know where I got that from... So it was all just a case of some careful measuring and drilling. Couldn't quite believe it when the hole lined up!

CwazyWabbit's link shows a cap with different venting arrangements - my gash one was like that - but it still had a barrel like mine that was all metal and not removable - so in typical LR fashion there are at least 3 types out there.

I can't think that a TD5 cap is that different - any "broken" donations for surgery gratefully received!