Flatout Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Does anyone have any tips on how to seperate the drive flange from the splines. I have tried the right hand side with no success. I now see the left is worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Front or rear? I'd get plenty of plusgas/WD40 in there and in the case of the rear, pull the shaft with it attached and gently tap it off that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flatout Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 I was ment to say its the front flanges. They are very well rusted on. Put loads of wd40 on but no moving it. I just can't a good clout at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Just to check, you have removed the circlip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yostumpy Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Mine were thus 5 years ago. I managed to get one off, but the n/s had to succumb? to the hacksaw, grinder, and chisel and 4 lb er!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Crow bar One like this can be very good, get loads of leverage: http://www.sfexaminer.com/files/blog_images/crowbar_04_25_12.jpg Also, hitting with hammer is going to loosen the rust eventually, unless it's like the titanic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Gear puller and a little heat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flatout Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 I take it I am been to gentle with it. Will try heat hammer and sweat on it so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jode Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Your problem highlights the argument for going back in time and removing the axle shaft oil seal that was added with the 110 (to prevent oil migrating form the diff into the hub). In the old days (series) the half-shaft splines would be wet with diff oil, which helps prevent wear between them and the hub splines, and also protects the metal from rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Your problem highlights the argument for going back in time and removing the axle shaft oil seal that was added with the 110 (to prevent oil migrating form the diff into the hub). In the old days (series) the half-shaft splines would be wet with diff oil, which helps prevent wear between them and the hub splines, and also protects the metal from rust. I've been running my axles-both front and rear like this for at least 5 years and have'nt had a problem getting mine off or with any of my wheel bearing seizing up either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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