Discochris Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Hi there every1 Well I've had my beloved disco for 6ish years never let me down 1 i welded up the front inner wings when i first got it then last year I welded up the sills an rear arches gave it a full respray looked nice but since then my screen has cracked ,had a fight with a wheelie bin an lost so side damaged lost fuel flap and now my boot floor has gone but not lifted up carpet yet (coward I know!) i have a new floor though it currently having a rest in my unit waiting for me to decide what to do with her And as my son has now decided to sand it down on 1 side I'm guessing it might be the end sadly it has covered 170k drives lovely 1995 300tdi well loved by my son and misses My question is is it worth keeping it repairing it an repaiting again or removing the body and rebodying it with a modified 110/series body ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Hi, well that depends on you. Do you have the time and inclination to fix her? not for the faint hearted but its well documented pretty mush most of the repairs you outlined. One think I would not ever consider is doing a "body swap" I've not seen one that has been done that actually looks anything like good. My vote would be keep it and repair it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 I've just spent the past 8 bloody months rebuilding the shed that is a Discovery, it's had every bodge known to mankind inflicted on it, and I mean every bodge. Is it worth the effort? Financially no it is not, butt, it's been a hoot doing it, any sane person would have driven it into a scrapyard, so my two happence worth would be keep it ad fix it, you know you want to....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lincsoldbird Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 If you get rid what do you replace it with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discochris Posted June 7, 2013 Author Share Posted June 7, 2013 Well I been up there tonight moved it out the way an reliesd how much I missed it so with that I looks like the rebuild is on as soon as my other project is finished Thinking about it when the back end sorted I got a good solid disco that should last a little longer Already spent loads on it over years so might as well carry on lol Been looking in to the body change would be a job to big and it wouldn't be my disco in the end lol Ouch 8 months that a long time it must have been a bad one ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimDay Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Well "Discochris" if it's any help we (me & my son) spent nearly six months on my 1995 Disco 300TDi bought it in June last year & put it on the road in Jan this year after welding up both front inner wheel arches, both rear arches, both outer sills, both front foot wells, & fitting a new boot floor the whole thing would have been done sooner but I had a heart attack just as I finished the boot floor & I was out of action for 2 months, now I need to get a new front screen fitted as it is badly chipped & it lets water in then I need to replace both front door seals & the rear luggage area door seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 So far I've replaced the entire boot floor, rebuilt the rear inner quarter panels, rebuilt the passenger sider front inner wing and headlamp box, passenger side footwell and A post (inner !!!!!!! the bottom of the door post which attaches to the sill was absolutely perfect - explain that one), drivers side inner wing and battery box, drivers side headlamp box , all I've got left to do is sort out the drivers side footwell this weekend and the bugger is done. Considering that 8 months ago all I set out to do was sort out a leaky power steering box........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discochris Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 Wow Jeff bet that was a shock lol hope after all that you have done the power steering box? Well I finally bit the bullet and lifted the carpet to my surprise its not as bad as I first thought looks quite solid round the edges just the centre that has been eaten by rust mights not started prodding yet !! To answer your question lincsoldbird it would defo be a 110 or another disco:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 So far I've replaced the entire boot floor, rebuilt the rear inner quarter panels, rebuilt the passenger sider front inner wing and headlamp box, passenger side footwell and A post (inner !!!!!!! the bottom of the door post which attaches to the sill was absolutely perfect - explain that one), drivers side inner wing and battery box, drivers side headlamp box , all I've got left to do is sort out the drivers side footwell this weekend and the bugger is done.Considering that 8 months ago all I set out to do was sort out a leaky power steering box........... The more dico's I've got involved with the more random I've seen the corrosion, there doesn't seem to be a specific week "point" its more the whole body is just naff, like I'm working on one just now a 95' and the sills are 95% mega solid, boot floor had some work, rear cross member and tub look fine... but jee whizz the bulkhead in both footwalls is like non existent, I mean its fred flintstone type breaking, and the corrosion can be incredibly local, which suggest local paint failure patches or electrolytic corrosion. you see some corrosion on the vessel very similar, usual when there's a bad earth to some equipment. Well you'll have piece of mind that the thing shouldn't fall apart around your ears when you next go over a wee bump! Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 I've found that vehicles that had side-steps fitted from new, often the sills are in very good nick, at least on the outer, including the A/B pillar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discochris Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 That's probly why mine hasn't needed any welding on the sills just all the other places instead lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marten Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 I subjected my 1992 200tdi 3 door to a complete restoration, doing all the welding myself, and making panels where I could. Work included most of the rear steel structure, cills and footwells, both front & rear inner wings and battery boxes. Complete engine rebuild, changed all the transfer gearbox seals and bearings (including the centre diff) and renewed the input gearwheel. Installed an good used R380 gearbox to overcome the output spline wear problem. It cost me over £2,000, was a really interesting and satisfying project, and I now have a really good, reliable AND MAINTAINABLE vehicle that should run for another 20 years. Worth every penny. I need a reliable 4 x 4 that can tow 2 tons and I would never get another for that price. Go for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lincsoldbird Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 well said good on you Martin. It good that not every body thinks new is best. A lot can be said for not being tired to the steelers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 The more dico's I've got involved with the more random I've seen the corrosion, there doesn't seem to be a specific week "point" its more the whole body is just naff, like I'm working on one just now a 95' and the sills are 95% mega solid, boot floor had some work, rear cross member and tub look fine... but jee whizz the bulkhead in both footwalls is like non existent, I mean its fred flintstone type breaking, and the corrosion can be incredibly local, which suggest local paint failure patches or electrolytic corrosion. you see some corrosion on the vessel very similar, usual when there's a bad earth to some equipment.Well you'll have piece of mind that the thing shouldn't fall apart around your ears when you next go over a wee bump! Mav MMMM footwells in a Disco 1, this bit of panel work has to be the worst bit of design on any vehicle I have ever come across. There appear to be at least for or five spot welded panels and seams, all liberally coated with a beige , flammable, sealer. I suspect that it is the prodigious use by the factory of seam sealer in the footwell panels that is the cause. Once the bloody stuff dries out and cracks, water gets in the seams and, hey presto ferric/ferrous oxide takes over unseen and ........... What I really couldn't get my head around was that the door post bottoms were absolutely solid on the outside, but the inner panels (in the footwell!!!!) were non existent. My footwells are now 1.5mm plate- buggers won't rust in a hurry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 What I really couldn't get my head around was that the door post bottoms were absolutely solid on the outside, but the inner panels (in the footwell!!!!) were non existent. that could be down to 2 or 3 things - the most common i've seen is the base of the windscreen, just where the A pillar meets it, is filled with that lovely seam sealer as a bodge to fill a big ish hole. the other problem i've seen is the A panel (same area as on mini's) let's water in behind the wing stiffener rail, as it rots, internally. On the passenger side, you can find that the heater intake seal has failed (or was non existant - as per mine), let's water in, runs along the underside of the bulkhead, and then causes corrosion from the inside out. If your heater box has rusty marks on it, then 99% that's one leak. Also if you get a wet patch in the middle of a rubber floor mat, that's the heater inlet seal. The same technique is applied at the rear, where the roof, rear quarter and the tailgate corner posts meet, big wedge of seam sealer applied to fill the hole. I know where you are coming from with the random rot problem though, mines got rust holes halfway up the B pillars???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TravelTed Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Hi guys had my 200 tdi disco1 three door 1993 for 4years now.lots of blood sweat and tears not to mention bank balance depletion. Last year nearly fell down whem MOT man gives me pass certificate with nil advisories. Still a bit scruffy and has covered 237000miles on origional engine.would I get rid NO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 that could be down to 2 or 3 things - the most common i've seen is the base of the windscreen, just where the A pillar meets it, is filled with that lovely seam sealer as a bodge to fill a big ish hole. the other problem i've seen is the A panel (same area as on mini's) let's water in behind the wing stiffener rail, as it rots, internally. On the passenger side, you can find that the heater intake seal has failed (or was non existant - as per mine), let's water in, runs along the underside of the bulkhead, and then causes corrosion from the inside out. If your heater box has rusty marks on it, then 99% that's one leak. Also if you get a wet patch in the middle of a rubber floor mat, that's the heater inlet seal.The same technique is applied at the rear, where the roof, rear quarter and the tailgate corner posts meet, big wedge of seam sealer applied to fill the hole. I know where you are coming from with the random rot problem though, mines got rust holes halfway up the B pillars???? I suspect that a lot of the random rot is down to poor paint/bad prep applied during manufacture. I noticed a number of perfectly circular (!!!!!) patches of paint lifting all over the vehicle, especially on the interior panels. The couple of tons of stone chip applied at the factory doesn't help either, once water/salt/road grime etc gets beneath that is festers away unseen till the panel dissolves. Had these vehicles been properly prepared and painted.... Mind you considering the thing is over 20 years old, it's certainly lasting better than , say, a Disco 2! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discochris Posted July 3, 2013 Author Share Posted July 3, 2013 Lucky enough my disco is quite solid apart from the boot floor been doing little bits over the years hopefully soon as I done the floor an some other bits it should last a very long time !!! I have been collecting all the parts and new things ready for the work to start as my other project is nearly complete I am really starting to miss driving my beloved (down to a Clio) it sad seen it all dusty sat in corner of my unit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discochris Posted July 14, 2013 Author Share Posted July 14, 2013 Well I finally started stripping out the boot floor luckily it just the floor it self I've also removed all the carpets to check rest of the floor an noticed that both foot wells are soaked but the floor is solid so now am stumped ..... Has anyone had any ideas where it coming from/ had this on there own ???? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted July 14, 2013 Share Posted July 14, 2013 Front or rear? If it's the front, check the inner door posts are still present , that the screw holes where the front mudflap brackets attach haven't got somewhat larger and the other place is where the half a dozen or so panels that landrover used as a footwell still have some sealer that hasn't dried out and turned porous. Also the front inner wings where they attach to the bulkhead. If it's the rear, then I'd start with the window seals (trim out job) - that's alpine and side. Also when the trims out look at the state of the sealant the factory applied, copiously, to bond the outer 1/4 panels in place and to "seal" the joints on the inner 1/4 panels. Not to forget the wheel arches - remember stone chip goop hides a multitude of sins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mahon257 Posted July 14, 2013 Share Posted July 14, 2013 Well I finally started stripping out the boot floor luckily it just the floor it self I've also removed all the carpets to check rest of the floor an noticed that both foot wells are soaked but the floor is solid so now am stumped ..... Has anyone had any ideas where it coming from/ had this on there own ???? Chris could be this... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=80730&hl= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted July 14, 2013 Share Posted July 14, 2013 Could also be broken body mounts where they go on in the engine bay, had this on mine, take carpet out and look for hairline cracks in the floor more or less where the clutch pedal would go through the floor if you pressed it and it carried on down, if you get my meaning. Same on passenger side. It might not look much but will let a lot of road spray in. I bodged mine on my old 96 Discovery by covering it with a thick layer of silicone and putting a sheet of polythene over the top stuck to the silicone L) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discochris Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 For got to mention it front foot wells I've had a really good look carnt see any holes cracks so starting to think it must be round the screen area luckerly I'm replacing it so can have a very good look there thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 Well I finally started stripping out the boot floor luckily it just the floor it self I've also removed all the carpets to check rest of the floor an noticed that both foot wells are soaked but the floor is solid so now am stumped ..... Has anyone had any ideas where it coming from/ had this on there own ???? Chris Wetness in footwells? My #1 checks would be leaking heater-matrix, blocked A/C condenser drain-pipe or some other obstruction in the drains from the heater air-intake-box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.