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Front Radius Arm Bush Bolts

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I'm gonnna replace all the suspension bushes on my 90. Last night I went round checking which bolts would undo and which ones want persuading.

It looks like one of the leading ones on the front axle has rusted into the bearing inner sleeve and won't come out. It will twist quite a bit (so I guess this bush is knackerd) but even after plenty of penetrating oil and a modicum of heat (not enough to burn the bush) and hammering it still won't shift.

The question is will I be able to get a 4.5" thin cutting disk in and through the bolt without cutting any vitals.

I can't see how a hacksaw will reach and in any case aren't these bolts hardened.

I could get a bigger hammer but there's not much room to swing it.

Other thoughts are:

1) Get a big G cramp and socket and tay and push the bolt out. I suspect I'll just bend the tommy bar.

2) My neighbour's got a oxy-acetyline portapak, so maybe a bit more intense localised heat will do it

Ta Aaron

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Did the disco's a week or two back. Fortunately the bolts came out after being soaked in WD40 over the previous days.

Anyway, could you get in there with a junior hacksaw? Slow and tedious but its helped me out before.

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You could get in with a grinder but you run the risk of quite alot of damage. I replaced my bushes along with lightweight arms last week. Fortunately all but one of the bolst would undo. The last bolt I had to cut with a standard size hacksaw on both sides of the arm. It took about half an hour with alot of swearing


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I had to cut through two of the radius arm bolts on the 90.

Didn't want to risk accidentally taking away some of the mounting by using an angle grinder.

I used a single ended hacksaw. First cut had to go through the bush inner tube as well as the bolt but having knocked that out and got some play at at least the second cut only had to go through the bolt.

Use plenty of copper grease when you put the new ones in like they should have done when they built it !


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Dewalt sell a single ended hacksaw machine and heavy duty blades. I've got an 18V version and it is marvellous. I cut the front off an old Rangie last night in minutes.

For extra oomph in sheet steel, I use the coarser "wood" blade - Honestly, its like a knife in butter.

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Thanks for the advice ...

It's off,

Last night tried using the handle for a hacksaw blade and got nowhere, just couldnt apply enough pressure to get it to bite. Ended up using full size 12" blade in frame. One side took about 40mins cause I had to cut thru the inner sleeve as well. The other side took about 10min - only had to cut thru the bolt.

What with the steering guard and track rod I only had about 2" back and forth action, my arms are killing me. In retrospect it's funny cause I took the rear track-rod off but it didn't occur to me to remove the front one to improve access!

I was in two minds last night as to whether to remove all the radius arms front and rear but in the end I just took off the ones on one side. I wasn't sure if given a small shove the whole thiing would just fall to bits, I mean they would only be held loosely by the prop-shaft and thats got a sliding joint.

Spoke to a local garage yesterday and they said they would change the bushes for me on their press (one of the guys there has a lightweight) so I'm hoping they'll just do it for beer money.

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Result :)

I only remove mine one at a time. Less chance of things moving to far out of line before its refitted.

If you can get access to a press to fit the bushes go for it. Had to drill and chisel out the last set and it was a lot of work. Well worth some beer money IMHO.

When refitting I find a scissor jack very usefull. Get the arm roughly in place and the rear bush/nut on. Then positon the front of the arm using the jack. Be carefull to fit the bolt in the first hole to reach horizontal allingment (if that makes sense) as you can then use the jack to push the arm up further to get the second bush to the right height.

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