Tom1809 Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 Hi fella's Wondering if anyone can help with my problem, I got a 300tdi to replace my v8 and thought I'd better change the cambelt. Unfortunately it had a wading plug in the timing chest and there was a fair amount of oil in there so I started stripping everything down. Got everything timed up, belt off and the bottom pully out along with the seal. This is where problems arose, my grandfather offered to help and I forgot to lock the flywheel through the bell housing. Long story short the crank got rotated a few times. No biggy I thought as i just rotated it around till it lined up with the timing mark and the slot was visable through the bell housing. Unfortunately my engine will start but won't physically rev I thought it could be 180 out but it can't be as it would start very easily and would at least rev. Could it be a lift pump or words injector pump and what's the easiest way to tell. Many thanks Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 Tom What's it rev to about 1800RPM ? New fuel lines ? Have you had banjo bolts out of the fuel filter ? Check the banjo bolts are in the correct place on the fuel filter. One is marked either out or exit on the bolt head.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom1809 Posted July 6, 2013 Author Share Posted July 6, 2013 Well I've had a little play after a trip to Morrisons for some Injector cleaner. Havnt messed with the banjo bolts and fuel lines are new as I have a td5 tank but no leaks and everything is correct. There was very little in the filter but cranking the engine over with the stop solinoid disconected and the bleed out of the filter resulted in a good amount if deisel shooting out. I deceided to empty the filter and brim it full of injector cleaner and reassembled, I then cracked the nut on injector 1 and she fired up, it will now rev a lot more but need to get the gearbox mounts bolted down.will get the rev counter connected and see what it gets too and I think a boost gauge will be helpful too. The only thing is the idle is a very lumpy but I know the timing isn't out as everything lined up perfectly. Could I need to crack all the injectors to bleed any left over air? I know my v8 was very smooth and It's been a while since I played with diesels or have anything to compare with. Cheers Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 The 300Tdi has a self purge fuel system. You shouldn't need bleed it at all. If you're going to crack an injector pipe. Do them all one at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom1809 Posted July 7, 2013 Author Share Posted July 7, 2013 He another little play today. I can't seem to get away from the very lumpy idle, n black smoke or blue smoke from the exhaust. Revs up fine. No air or fuel leaks that I can find and there is minimal joints and its on,y got to be on the flow line. Any ideas? Regards Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benthng Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Hi! just thought to share some ideas in case u are still having problems with the lumpy idle and smoke. Likely to be timing related, try advancing the fuel pump slightly (what feels like 1mm at spanner end) in small increments until it fixes the lumpy idle. If it still smoke with a strong diesel smell then it's likely the cam timing may be a little retarded. All the best Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 If the crank was rotated without the belt on, you could have bent a pushrod or two as the pistons will hit any valve that is open. There will always be two valves open somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 You have bet several push rods. Hopefully, the cam followers, valves and rockers are undamaged, but there are no guarantees. Remove the rocker cover and the rocker shaft to replace the push rods. It's probably best to replace them all as some might have a very slight bend which could be missed but will worsen in use. Once the rods have been replaced, slacken all the tappets and refit the rocker shaft. Reset the tappets and the cover, and it should run fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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