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Battery kill switch


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Hi all

Anybody had any experience with this or similar

Just ordered it only to give an extra bit of security against theft

I know it's a bit of a pain taking the seat up every night but id rather do that and avoid it getting robbed! Already got a steering lock any other methods you all use?

I also fold the seat in such a way that you can't sit on it and its a nightmare to get it back the way I do it unless you know how it's been done

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I wouldn't bother wit it tbh Not a fan of those simply because its another point for resistance when winching.

Surley a decent HD cutout switch or seperate second ignition switch would be just as good,

a tdi can be bump started and run for some time on a rc car battery.

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I wouldn't bother wit it tbh Not a fan of those simply because its another point for resistance when winching.

Surley a decent HD cutout switch or seperate second ignition switch would be just as good,

a tdi can be bump started and run for some time on a rc car battery.

Thanks for the quick reply! I haven't actually got a winch so the extra point of resistance is not an issue! I just liked the simplicity of this and the way it's hidden so your standard none landrover owner thief would have a job finding it

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Problem with that sort of thing is that it disconnects battery-power from the locking/alarm/immobilizer system - which will in all probability then either trigger and start squealing, or lock-out.

It also means you can't lock/unlock/immobilize with the remote - so your vehicle's rather more vulnerable to theft than if you just used the factory-fit lock/immobilizer.

Without power, your clock also stops, and your radios lose all their presets.

If you do want a "battery-disconnecter" then there are versions available which fit a 15-amp fuse in parallel to the disconnect-knob bit:

http://www.richbrook-styling.co.uk/dis-car-nect-battery-master-switch/disc-car-nect-battery-cut-off-switch-/90

which keeps a low-current feed to the electrics/radio/central-locking/immobiliser/alarms even though you have turned the 'isolate' knob. If someone does get in and tries to start the engine, the fuse blows, leaving them stuck (and with the 'battery disconnected' part of the factory-fit alarm triggered so squealing like a stuck pig...)

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Problem with that sort of thing is that it disconnects battery-power from the locking/alarm/immobilizer system - which will in all probability then either trigger and start squealing, or lock-out.

It also means you can't lock/unlock/immobilize with the remote - so your vehicle's rather more vulnerable to theft than if you just used the factory-fit lock/immobilizer.

Without power, your clock also stops, and your radios lose all their presets.

If you do want a "battery-disconnecter" then there are versions available which fit a 15-amp fuse in parallel to the disconnect-knob bit:

http://www.richbrook-styling.co.uk/dis-car-nect-battery-master-switch/disc-car-nect-battery-cut-off-switch-/90

which keeps a low-current feed to the electrics/radio/central-locking/immobiliser/alarms even though you have turned the 'isolate' knob. If someone does get in and tries to start the engine, the fuse blows, leaving them stuck (and with the 'battery disconnected' part of the factory-fit alarm triggered so squealing like a stuck pig...)

I use these on my classic cars and they are excellent but I think it would be a pain taking the seat up to remove the knob every time you park in town. I have fitted a battery isolator to the front of the defenders battery box, a bit more effort to fit but much more likely to be used IMHO.

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What ever works for you, not a fan myself to fiddly and to cheap You Landy is worth thousands of ££££ why try and stop it being stolen with something that cost a couple of quid that at the end of the day if they want it , they will tow it or check the battery and reconnect it

At least with a decent isolator you'll have the Key in you pocket .......... and you wont have starting issues in the winter

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Or just junk the security-based isolator and fit some of X-Eng's security products.

At the end of the day, you only need probably ~7V from any old battery to activate the fuel solenoid and the truck can be started by rolling down the road and jumping in, mechanical and fuel-based security takes much longer to get over:

http://www.x-eng.co.uk/StoreTop.asp?MID=82&SL=82

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Get an FIA battery master switch, wire it up properly. Unless you have a key it will not start and run.

Any similar type can be used without a key.

Agreed.

Been fitting these to my LR's for over 25-yeards and they have given stirling service.

If you have an alarm or just want the interior lights to work at all times run a bypass circuit supported by a 3A fuse.

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