skauldy Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 If you could do it all again (rebuilding your defender) what would you do differently. About to start my def 90 rebuild and just collecting ideas fr people who have been there and thought feck I forgot that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmerfred Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 I have never done one but learning from others experiences that have I would buy one that has been completely re-built as you do not have the hassle and the expense of doing it but invariably can buy one for substantially less than what it cost you to do in the first place, I bought my 1966 S11A this way, cost me half what the bloke spent doing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kierran.M.110 Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 i am coming to the end of my rebuild, the cost of it is nearly worth the satisfaction of doing it yourself rather than buying one. if i was doing it again i would take more note when taking things apart as it is amazing the amount of small little brackets and wires i have "spare". take as many pictures as you can and label every single wire, its worth it believe me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 If it's steel galvanize it then paint it. The only trouble with buying someone else's rebuild they always bodge something you wouldn't. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Not LR-specific, but from rebuilding several classic cars over the years, my #1 tip is "Every nut bolt or other fastener you remove, subject to the NATO-standard Flotation Test". For those who don't know - this test involves hurling the fastener in question into a nearby body of deep water. If it floats, it's suitable for reuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushpig110 Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Before starting make sure your partner is on the same song sheet cause losing you for hours and hours to you new love will test things to the max, Not That I Haven't Been There Before ........................................................ And have a clear view of the standard you want to achieve and Stick to it , cutting corners will only wind you up later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 And have a clear view of the standard you want to achieve and Stick to it , cutting corners will only wind you up later Conversely going for perfection will make you poor and probably insane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Anywhere steel frames contact aluminium panels, use rubber gaskets or duct tape over the primer to isolate the metals - don't rely on the paint or silicone sealant as they break down in time and will lead to electrolytic corrosion. Don't use thick applications of seam sealer for the you either, as it will just distort the skin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skauldy Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 Thanks for all the replies guys. Great to see other people's lessons learnt. It's hard to think of everything. I'm a mechanic by trade so the fun for me is in the build itself. My father in law bought his series 11A 'Rebuilt' and the state of some repairs but he's happy as he can just drive about.... For the moment anyway . Suppose there's a lid for every jar. Anyone afterwards wished they ran cables for something they might possible add in the future or pre weld brackets etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Building extra cabling into the loom is a smart idea for future accessories. I used a new chassis on my 109, and ordered it with mounting outriggers for front tanks in addition to the rear tank I already had so that the chassis wouldn't need its galvanising to be damaged by welding parts on later. I subsequently used those to have three tanks, so it paid off. So, think about the spec you want on completion, but also consider things you may want to fit in the future and wherever possible, make provision for their installation during the build to make their fit easier, neater and less damaging later. Another thing is only use decent parts - as a mechanic, you'll already know this, but many pattern parts are a waste of money and some are dangerous. Gen Parts are usually steeply marked up, so use OEM where possible, Gen Parts where necessary, and higher quality after-market where desired, and if in any doubt over an existing part's condition, bin it; you'll only regret using borderline parts later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluehaze Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 I painted mine in hammerite - it was fine for three years but then dulled and won't polish back - next time I'd use a different paint and put it on by hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 It will take at LEAST twice as long as you envisaged. It will cost at LEAST twice as much as you envisaged. Its the little bits that mount up. Try to do something every day, and write a "to do" list, so you dont waste time faffing. Do not buy parts on price alone...................you WILL regret it. Depending on your own skills and abilities, try to do as much as you can yourself, and ASK if you cant work out how to do something. DO NOT buy someone elses project, ESPECIALLY if its unfinished. You will discover that EVERYONE else is a bodger, and you will end up doing it all again. Personally, I have found that unfinished projects are generally only good for stripping down for parts. You will be amazed how much space a stripped vehicle will take up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Book a very expensive ferry ticket to somewhere for whenever it's supposed to be finished... worked for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 the bulkhead is "solid enough". no, no it is definately not!!!!!! it never is. weld, treat and repair every piece of steel left that might possibly become a problem in the next 5 years, and then treat it, a lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 and, no. you will not get round to just finishing that bit off after its back on the road!!! so just do it even though you cant be arsed. you will never do it otherwise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Any job that's easier while the car's apart - do it, even if it doesn't really need it. Buy all new nuts & bolts, a party pack of metric assortment from Namrick is a good one as you can replace quite a few obscure fasteners with metric as you go. Stainless + aluminium are a bad combo so avoid that temptation and stick with BZP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skauldy Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 The replies are great cos they are response to things I've heard from people at work. Lads are saying 'ah just get it going' or 'you can always get the part later'. I agree with all of you's do it now and enjoy the truck once it's on the road. Some great tips keep em coming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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